ixlr8nz

Hey Malc

In my mind the Serpent/ VBC/ CRC are all not that different to the Tamiya F104V2 (same basic configuration). Weight balance and tyres really make most of the difference. If the photo I have seen of the Xray F1 is correct, then I’d probably suggest it, as it has the battery across the chassis. But I would go 200mm if possible always.

Regards
Mike

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Is your tire choice the same as the fastest cars?

You should have no problem getting the rear grip equal to those other cars.

I'm willing to bet that you'll need to work on decreasing the steering once you have chosen the "grippiest" rear tires available with the grippiest rear end setup which in my opinion is soft/loose rear suspension settings.
This is for asphalt correct?

I'd also be choosing foam over rubber if that choice is open.

My all time favorite car is F103 with the premount tires which came in the 15th anniversary F103 kit.

One of the previous posters mentioned that the guy killin it is driving an F103.
I rest my case.

Never driven anything faster, however 200mm wide F1 cars and foam tires died here.

ixlr8nz

I am the lucky F103 owner mentioned above. F1 cars have not really improved in the last 20 years. I think the reason the F103 is so fast, is due to the battery location (weight balance). I would be pretty certain, any car with similar dimensions and weight balance would perform similar, whether T-Bar or link.

However tyres are extremely important – just like any form of R/C. So if you get these two factors right, then you will be on the right track. Foam is generally faster than rubber on our track when grippy.

Mike

malcnz

Cheers Mike and Craig.
yes its low grip asphalt.
I must admit i havent done a lot of driving with the f1 for quite a while now due to no one running it down here in Dunnas.
I have the softest foams team powers premounts and the hard fronts and seem about the same as other guys are running but just run them out of the packet with no trimming down.
I just cant seem to keep it from spinning out on the odd occasion with same amount of throttle sometimes its fine and others it spins out.
I do have it set as soft as i can and maybe it needs some more sorting as just tend to drive it and feel i can keep up with the others but just cant push it as hard as they can as it will spin out if i try to push.

ixlr8nz

Not sure about Dunners, I think the last time I raced there I used 32 rears and 42 fronts, but for Ruapuna I am using Frewer 32 rears and 35 fronts. I used 32 rears because they worked better for me than 25 rears. Make sure your diff doesn't slip but is free and also use the forward hole for more ackermann (less steering on the outer wheel). Move your electrics back as far as possible.

Mike

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I'd like to add to the comments above that are absolutely on point,
I prefer offset spindles rather than inline for calming down the steering and front end raised higher than the rear, motorboat rather than low front, hotrod.

Toe out also helps me get into the corners and push a bit coming out of the corners.

Oh yeh, and a perfect T plate especially on the 103

malcnz

cheers again guys.
diff is tight but still free.
might try and find out what shore rating the team powers foams are.
should i get the foams trimmed down or just run as they come out of pkt?

using forward hole on hubs and a little toe out.
electrics on the sides with shorty pack as far back as it will go as hard to get out if i ran electrics behind the battery as the 104w not designed for shorty lipo.

ixlr8nz

As mentioned by Cuda a few posts above, the Tamiya kit tyres are pretty good. They seem to be of a harder compound than 25 shore (probably around 30 or more) but do wear very fast.

Its really just a guess but these could be some reasons why the slightly harder tyres work well.

- Its harder for the dust to get into them
- They may suit the weight of the car better
- They don't deform as easy

Years ago we used to use soft foam tyres on our touring cars, but when we found out the trick to use harder tyres on a trip to the Aussie nationals, our cars were much better handling at future events.

The other thing I have done in the past was ditch the Tamiya servo saver on the F103 in favour of a Associated one. It was too soft and didn't allow the wheels to get the proper input from the servo. This may not be true for later Tamiya kits??

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

Message received...here's a few pics of your ride for the Japan trip.







I hope you like it my friend.

spacendeman

awesome looking!

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

You made me cry my big brother!

It is absolutely beautiful!

I am already a winner with you guys in my corner!

Can't wait for the Tuesday flight to Japan and let's get racin!!!!


Goin crazy, ready to pick it up as soon as I can get there today.
See you soon

Love ,

'cuda

firefoxussr

iTrader: (5)

My second hand Ferrari 412T1 (which is according to me the prettiest F1 car since the 60s), I painted a NOS shell. But i was missing the ducts, so I made more scale inlets. The opening is the same, just deeper into the car, more scale.

Also custom decals... which aren't decals but are stickers of my own design (literally measuring and making my on art file..i do graphic design professionally).




^these are all on instagram @firefoxussr more F103 pics, including decapitating my F103's driver, lots of Lancia Stratos, and Pantera. Kinda got an Italian theme going on.

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

Team Jordan announces it will take part both in F-1 RC drivers and constructors team championship starting next starting weekend 11/15 at NORA. Mt Vernon WA

Divers:
Marcos W. & Mark T

See you then!

daleepp

Hi F1 racers;

Here's a gallery of very cool (albeit not at all real) F1 paint schemes. Great food for thought and inspiration.

http://www.motorsport.com/f1/photos/...ads/?uid=12076

Dale - PROTOform

Ph3nyx

Build video of the StreetJam SJF01 for www.rcf1.fr

+ YouTube Video