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Old 07-15-2014, 12:16 AM   #10516
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18" wheels on a Formula 1 car look as awesome as those 23" wheels mounted on the lowered Cadillac Esclade that just cruised by. Seriously, why keep screwing with what is supposed to be the ultimate racing machines ? Keep the 18" tires to sedan cars. As for the all electric F1 cars, nice novelty. Take the Tesla. Great, I want to spend $ 80-90K on a car that I can drive to and from work only and maybe stop at the grocery store on the way home then slap it on a charger. If I want to drive to Vegas for a weekend, have to stop at least twice to charge up so a 3.5 hour drive now becomes an all day event. No thanks.

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Old 07-15-2014, 11:17 AM   #10517
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Im possibly looking to get an F1 car, I want something easy to setup, durable, and also has a good parts availability—looking for a used setup.

Question, is the Tamiya F104X1 a good car to go with or is the newer pro version that much better? Also, can I run my 2s 6200 90c pack or do i need a shorty and/or smaller capacity pack?
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:41 AM   #10518
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I have a f104pro that I want to sell.. Not exactly a F140X1 but still very competetive chassis.

F104PRO+spares+esc+motor
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:22 PM   #10519
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Tamiya F104's in release order:

F104 Pro
F104X1
F104v.2
TRF101
TRF101W not out yet

imo the F104x1 is the best one that has been released
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:23 PM   #10520
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Don't sleep on the F104W GP...last year's world champ for TCS
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:22 PM   #10521
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Are there sanctioning bodies in the US that allow F1 cars to 200mm (or a little more)? I ask because I have an Exotek F103 Ultra that I'd love to run.

Scott
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:00 PM   #10522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
Are there sanctioning bodies in the US that allow F1 cars to 200mm (or a little more)? I ask because I have an Exotek F103 Ultra that I'd love to run.

Scott
Best bet is to work to get a class going at your local track. Took a lot of talking, arm twisting, letting others drive my car and helping others with their set-ups but seeing 8 cars (200mm foam tire F1's) running at our last TQ Raceway Summer Series was worth the effort.

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Old 07-15-2014, 10:41 PM   #10523
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I may as well post this over there too

Today is new Tamiya part review day..

Last week saw the release of to new Tamiya formula car parts
84380 which is essentially a TRF101 diff assembly and carbon axle,
and 84381 which is a steel rear diff for the above diff assembly and TRF 101, and 101W cars.

The new diff assembly is a replacement for F103, 104, 104 V2, and can be used on the 101 cars as well.
The main advantages are an integrated shaft and axle end, replacing the old 2 piece design creating a more true shaft assembly. The second advantage is it moves the spur gear in a few mm closer to the engine.

Disadvantage over the F103 diff is that you now have to take the wheel off to adjust the diff, but I have found these new type of diff's to hold their setting better anyway.

I have installed one on my F103 Lemans car and its a big improvement over the F103 diffs and F104 diffs I have used in the past and there is no longer a need for the thrust bearing.
When installing on a F103 and 104 I recommend the Tamiya Clamp hub part 54240 for the other side of the axle.

Beth.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:00 AM   #10524
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Thanks, Beth.
At present, the local track is doing a "run what you brung" F1 class. Guess I'll use the F103 Ultra until told I can't.
Anyone see an advantage of running short wheelbase at 180mm width for short tracks?
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:20 AM   #10525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
I may as well post this over there too

Today is new Tamiya part review day..

Last week saw the release of to new Tamiya formula car parts
84380 which is essentially a TRF101 diff assembly and carbon axle,
and 84381 which is a steel rear diff for the above diff assembly and TRF 101, and 101W cars.

The new diff assembly is a replacement for F103, 104, 104 V2, and can be used on the 101 cars as well.
The main advantages are an integrated shaft and axle end, replacing the old 2 piece design creating a more true shaft assembly. The second advantage is it moves the spur gear in a few mm closer to the engine.

Disadvantage over the F103 diff is that you now have to take the wheel off to adjust the diff, but I have found these new type of diff's to hold their setting better anyway.

I have installed one on my F103 Lemans car and its a big improvement over the F103 diffs and F104 diffs I have used in the past and there is no longer a need for the thrust bearing.
When installing on a F103 and 104 I recommend the Tamiya Clamp hub part 54240 for the other side of the axle.

Beth.
Where can I order these parts in the USA?
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:48 PM   #10526
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Question, just bought a F104v2 and had questions on wheels/tires.

I see Exotek revised their glued wheel/tire combo—anyone have experience is it a good option?

I have Tamiya 104 wheels but it looks to be hard to fit ride or pit shimizu tires to the tamiya wheels. What would be a good rim option to go with if i use the pit shimizu tires?
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:48 PM   #10527
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for pit shimizu , you have the possibility to use tamiya F104 FOAM rims or exotek rims

ride must be used with ride rims only (until the next tire to come, i hope)
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:57 PM   #10528
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Originally Posted by Photocycler View Post
Question, just bought a F104v2 and had questions on wheels/tires.

I see Exotek revised their glued wheel/tire combo—anyone have experience is it a good option?

I have Tamiya 104 wheels but it looks to be hard to fit ride or pit shimizu tires to the tamiya wheels. What would be a good rim option to go with if i use the pit shimizu tires?
Use the Tamiya foam rims, no ridges and Pit tires. Pit 571 fronts and 572 rears are the what the rebadged TCS tires are.

I know old news, but: Clean and sand the rims, round off the sharp edges. Clean any part of the tire that will see glue with motor cleaner or lighter fuel, scuff the rubber with a scotchbright pad. Use slow setting CA and lay a nice bead on the flat side of the inner tire wall, not the part that meets the front of the rim, but the part that is on the outside of the rim. Make sure it is wet pretty much right up to the foam insert with the front of the tire down on a flat surface. There needs to be enough glue to set that inner edge and the front edge. Insert the rim slowly to make sure it makes it down the insert and lip of rubber. Now twist a lot (Like 3 full turns of the rim) and push down gently. This will displace air gaps and pockets of glue and allow the rim to come as close to the rubber as possible. If you get the bead of glue is right, it will just seep out the front of the rim/tire area. Just run a damp finger around the edge. Before the wheel sets slide it on an axle with bearings and see how true it spins. If the rim is seated well, the front will not wobble. For the rear, slide it on an axle with no pinion on it and do the same. NO Wobble. If it wobbles, the rim may not have seated and you need to twist and push more. Set the tire on it's back, do the other three. Go play with something else for an hour. If you get the fronts right, the backs will float into place at the back edge of the rim, just make sure you use enough glue. Too little is bad. Too much makes a mess. If you don't glue the actual inner tire bead, the first time you hit something, you will tear your tires right at the outer edge of the rim. Remember the face of any F1 tire is only decoration up to where the sidewall starts. The sidewall doesn't start until the inner edge of the tire carcass has it's lip over the Outer Diameter of the rim.
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Old 07-16-2014, 04:16 PM   #10529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Use the Tamiya foam rims, no ridges and Pit tires. Pit 571 fronts and 572 rears are the what the rebadged TCS tires are.

I know old news, but: Clean and sand the rims, round off the sharp edges. Clean any part of the tire that will see glue with motor cleaner or lighter fuel, scuff the rubber with a scotchbright pad. Use slow setting CA and lay a nice bead on the flat side of the inner tire wall, not the part that meets the front of the rim, but the part that is on the outside of the rim. Make sure it is wet pretty much right up to the foam insert with the front of the tire down on a flat surface. There needs to be enough glue to set that inner edge and the front edge. Insert the rim slowly to make sure it makes it down the insert and lip of rubber. Now twist a lot (Like 3 full turns of the rim) and push down gently. This will displace air gaps and pockets of glue and allow the rim to come as close to the rubber as possible. If you get the bead of glue is right, it will just seep out the front of the rim/tire area. Just run a damp finger around the edge. Before the wheel sets slide it on an axle with bearings and see how true it spins. If the rim is seated well, the front will not wobble. For the rear, slide it on an axle with no pinion on it and do the same. NO Wobble. If it wobbles, the rim may not have seated and you need to twist and push more. Set the tire on it's back, do the other three. Go play with something else for an hour. If you get the fronts right, the backs will float into place at the back edge of the rim, just make sure you use enough glue. Too little is bad. Too much makes a mess. If you don't glue the actual inner tire bead, the first time you hit something, you will tear your tires right at the outer edge of the rim. Remember the face of any F1 tire is only decoration up to where the sidewall starts. The sidewall doesn't start until the inner edge of the tire carcass has it's lip over the Outer Diameter of the rim.
Thanks for the great info

2 questions,

1.) Do you know if the stock wheels that come with the kit are for the foam tires? Looks like they will work

2.) Will those rims work, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXPZ2&P=7
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:09 PM   #10530
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Thanks for the great info

2 questions,

1.) Do you know if the stock wheels that come with the kit are for the foam tires? Looks like they will work

2.) Will those rims work, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXPZ2&P=7
1. those are the foam rims in the kit.

2. those are the silver version.

You are good to go!
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