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Old 01-31-2014, 06:41 PM   #9961
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Oh man, that looks nice and clean. A few quick questions:

1. Is the ball diff adjusted independently of the wheel nut or no?
2. I'm assuming ride height is via shims in the front and axle blocks in the back?
3. Does it have camber adjustment? Pillow ball? (looks like it)

Otherwise that's a sexy car. Do want
1. i didnt get a good look at how the diff adjustment is set but from i could see it looks to be done the same as everybody else.
2. front ride height is set with shims like everybody else. The rear has a slider pod like the VBC car so you will want a really wide stepped ride height gauge to help keep it even left to right when adjusting.
3. the camber is adjustable via the pillowball but depending on the rims you may need to remove the wheel for access.

Overall the car looked to be a solid performer on carpet when I competed against it, it just wasn't better. On asphalt I would expect it to struggle on bumpier tracks the same as other narrow link cars with similar weight distribution. The one thing that makes it a complete no go for me is the unsightly body fit appearance. The chassis flares out wider than the body forward of the cockpit and the servo fit requires you to cut a hole in the side of the body for it to stick out of.

Out of all the link cars available the new exotek looks the best and is the only one attempting to resolve the parking lot bump deficiency at the moment. The shorted wheel base option is great for more technical tracks and is something I wish all the cars had.

If I were you I would stick with the SP for the rest of the winter season and see what get released in the spring, maybe there will be something more appealing then.

Mark
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:27 PM   #9962
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Actually there are holes in the chassis where you can use the Tamiya F103/F104 servo mounts and stand the servo up so it doesn't stick out. Once that is done a little bit of work with a Dremel will take care of the sides sticking out. Though I wouldn't worry much about that...it is hardly noticeable. Some of my Tamiya cars in the past have had the chassis sticking out slightly as well. Once the body is on it is really hard to see.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:18 AM   #9963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
1. i didnt get a good look at how the diff adjustment is set but from i could see it looks to be done the same as everybody else.
2. front ride height is set with shims like everybody else. The rear has a slider pod like the VBC car so you will want a really wide stepped ride height gauge to help keep it even left to right when adjusting.
3. the camber is adjustable via the pillowball but depending on the rims you may need to remove the wheel for access.

Overall the car looked to be a solid performer on carpet when I competed against it, it just wasn't better. On asphalt I would expect it to struggle on bumpier tracks the same as other narrow link cars with similar weight distribution. The one thing that makes it a complete no go for me is the unsightly body fit appearance. The chassis flares out wider than the body forward of the cockpit and the servo fit requires you to cut a hole in the side of the body for it to stick out of.

Out of all the link cars available the new exotek looks the best and is the only one attempting to resolve the parking lot bump deficiency at the moment. The shorted wheel base option is great for more technical tracks and is something I wish all the cars had.

If I were you I would stick with the SP for the rest of the winter season and see what get released in the spring, maybe there will be something more appealing then.

Mark
That's a pretty good assessment, thanks Mark!

The only follow-up I have is about the ball diff adjustment. When you say "same as everybody else", do you mean that you tighten the ball diff when you tighten your wheel? I ask since I really like the way SP did it, with the separate nut for the ball diff and separate for wheel. So I can take my wheel off and not mess up the diff setting. I think the F104 is the same way though, isn't it?
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:22 AM   #9964
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Looks like the F104 pro system indeed

Regards Roy

Quote:
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So I can take my wheel off and not mess up the diff setting. I think the F104 is the same way though, isn't it?
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:42 AM   #9965
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
That's a pretty good assessment, thanks Mark!

The only follow-up I have is about the ball diff adjustment. When you say "same as everybody else", do you mean that you tighten the ball diff when you tighten your wheel? I ask since I really like the way SP did it, with the separate nut for the ball diff and separate for wheel. So I can take my wheel off and not mess up the diff setting. I think the F104 is the same way though, isn't it?
the diff nut is separate from the wheel like the sp.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:13 PM   #9966
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new xray f1 in the works, info from redrc:

Winning the opening round of ETS in both Pro Stock and Formula, then driving for Serpent and becoming the series first double class winner, Jan Ratheisky is the class of the 67 car Formula field this weekend toping all three qualifiers by a very comfortable margin with his under-wraps Xray chassis.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:37 PM   #9967
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Originally Posted by Matthijs View Post
new xray f1 in the works, info from redrc:

Winning the opening round of ETS in both Pro Stock and Formula, then driving for Serpent and becoming the series first double class winner, Jan Ratheisky is the class of the 67 car Formula field this weekend toping all three qualifiers by a very comfortable margin with his under-wraps Xray chassis.


Oh man, the choices are growing :-)
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:15 PM   #9968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthijs View Post
new xray f1 in the works, info from redrc:

Winning the opening round of ETS in both Pro Stock and Formula, then driving for Serpent and becoming the series first double class winner, Jan Ratheisky is the class of the 67 car Formula field this weekend toping all three qualifiers by a very comfortable margin with his under-wraps Xray chassis.
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Oh man, the choices are growing :-)
yeah, and gonna take a big bite out of some wallets! Love their stuff, sure to be good.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:41 PM   #9969
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I got to spend a few hours improving the setup of my SP-1 today, to try and reduce the bad push I had into and through corners. What I did:

1. Set the front spring preload to 3mm when measured at the side of the king pin, from the bottom of the arm to the little black plastic washer on the end. I did this since, in theory, that reduced uptravel, which should have improved on-power steering.

2. I switched to CRC 20K side damper lube (from 10K AE diff fluid)

3. I switched from the stock spring to Spec-R springs, starting with 2.6 and ending up on 3.0

This definitely gave me a more steering into and through the corners. Not perfect, but much better. However, coming out of corners, especially onto the straight, it seems the front still picks up a bit as the car can get unsettled and veer to the side when I apply power. I'm still running AE 35wt oil in the top shock.

This all made me realize that I don't quite understand middle chassis (pod) droop (so top shock spring preload) as well as middle chassis ride height and its relationship to grip. My ride height up front is 4.5mm, as it is in the back (measured at the side of the pod in front of the rear wheels). In the middle, it's around 4mm. I have 3mm of spacers inside the shock to reduce pod droop, and the spring is preloaded a bunch, which results in the 4mm measured right where the pod attaches. The middle of the chassis can come up to around 6mm if I lift it up, so the pod has a bit of droop.

Am I in the right ballpark? Should my ride height be even underneath the whole car? If I reduce the number of spacers inside the shock and thus let the pod droop more, won't that make the car have even less on power steering, or am I thinking of this backwards?

Damn pan cars
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Old 02-01-2014, 10:52 PM   #9970
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Interesting that you chose to put pre-load on the front springs when the car is pushing...usually that will make it push more.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:40 AM   #9971
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Interesting that you chose to put pre-load on the front springs when the car is pushing...usually that will make it push more.
I didn't say that was I did was right, just that it made sense in my sometimes confused head, hence my little novel with questions above

I was trying to reduce front uptravel, to not let weight transfer to the back as much. I'm not sure how else to do it on an F1, or if that's even the right approach.

The only other thought I had now is that more top spring preload, to set the ride height to 4.5mm in the middle and not let the car "sag" at all, would maybe do what I wanted?
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:35 AM   #9972
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Spotted at the ETS... Pics are up on Red RC gallery. New Ride F1 tyres and wheels

http://www.thard.co.uk/?p=44
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:44 AM   #9973
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Try this.
Go lower on front then rear.
Pod droop not more then 1MM.
How is the steering behaviour on and off power?
If the car turns in sharper offpower then try a bit more preload on the centre spring or a heavier one.
Max Pod droop shouldn't have to do anything with centre preload but with lenght of the shock.
I found out that if you go harder(to a point) on the front springs, you get more steering and if you go to soft, the car will slide over it's front tires more.
Also and this may seem odd, how fast is your steering servo?
On pan cars in general i found(and with me more people) that if the servo is to fast you loose steering because the tires won't get the chance to settle themself due to the fast steering action.
When going slower on the steering action, it gets better and tire wear is also less.

Regards Roy
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:20 PM   #9974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Try this.
Go lower on front then rear.
Pod droop not more then 1MM.
How is the steering behaviour on and off power?
If the car turns in sharper offpower then try a bit more preload on the centre spring or a heavier one.
Max Pod droop shouldn't have to do anything with centre preload but with lenght of the shock.
I found out that if you go harder(to a point) on the front springs, you get more steering and if you go to soft, the car will slide over it's front tires more.
Also and this may seem odd, how fast is your steering servo?
On pan cars in general i found(and with me more people) that if the servo is to fast you loose steering because the tires won't get the chance to settle themself due to the fast steering action.
When going slower on the steering action, it gets better and tire wear is also less.

Regards Roy
I think I may not understand how pod droop is measured, then. When you say 1mm of pod droop, you'd be setting that with shock length (so inside spacers or turning the end eyelet), but where do you measure that 1mm? At the center of the car, so the front of the pod?

Off power the car definitely steers better, and if I stay off power and let it slow down, it then suddenly has a ton of steering. It's a visible change in behavior as the front seems to "catch" and turn the car in.

I'm using the defacto Savox 1251mg, which I believe has a .09 speed. I don't use expo and I don't change the servo speed, full endpoints but my dual rate is down to around 70s or 80s depending on the layout.

The front springs are the stock, pretty soft ones. Using Pit 571/572 tires, with 1.5* of camber up front and a 10* caster plate. The tires seem to make full contact, but I'm wondering if I have the camber/caster combination right, as the SP-1 was designed around foam tires.
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Old 02-02-2014, 12:29 PM   #9975
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Over the past 15+ years, I've added these Tamiya F1 1/10 R/C cars to my collection; so far only 1 is built! I am starting to build the others asap, here is my list, I will post photos soon:

*Tamiya F103RX Jordan 191 Michael Schumacher 7UP green F1 car
*Tamiya F103RX McLaren MP4/6 Aryton Senna Marlboro red F1 car
*Tamiya F103 Lotus Honda 99T Aryton Senna Camel yellow car
*Tamiya Tyrrell P34 six-wheeler
*Tamiya Lola T93/00 Ford Newman Haas Kmart Texaco Indy car
*Tamiya Lola T94/00 Honda Rahal Hogan Motorola Indy car

built so far, Tamiya F101 Ferrari F189 Nigel Mansell
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