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Old 10-16-2013, 07:53 PM   #9466
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It depends on your definition of "standard". Standard as in industry standard for tamiya based wheels, yes....... But that standard is metric, and not standard as in imperial. (See earlier posts in the thread for the punch line).


Hahahaha

Ian- wish I could make the champs to defend, but You will be getting dumper instead. You guys will just have to beat up on him.
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Old 10-17-2013, 07:59 AM   #9467
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Let me rephrase. Will the new CRC F1 car use 14mm hexes for the rear and metric front axles so that I can use the same wheels that I use on my F104 and WRC cars?
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:12 AM   #9468
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yes
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:27 PM   #9469
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i had this idea of buying a contemporary F1 chassis (1/10th F103/4, etc) and using a 1994 Ferrari F1 body (love the 412 T1), would that disallow me from most F1 events?
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:27 PM   #9470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al dente View Post
this is a true statement.
Mario is awesome and clearly modest with it

Well done on the win - I was watching on LiveRC and had everything crossed. Tough break for Bryan.

Looks like one heck of a car. Here is hoping F1 is a Snowbirds class
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:31 PM   #9471
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@Firefox,
Body choice is (AFAIK) not an issue at sanctioned F1 races aside from a Tamiya TCS event. If it is a Tamiya TCS event, you would have to run a Tamiya body, I believe. Otherwise, it should not be an issue. I have run front and rear wings that don't match one another, nor the body (ie an F2012 Ferrari doesn't have to run the F2012 front or rear wings to be ok).
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:36 PM   #9472
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@Firefox,
Body choice is (AFAIK) not an issue at sanctioned F1 races aside from a Tamiya TCS event. If it is a Tamiya TCS event, you would have to run a Tamiya body, I believe. Otherwise, it should not be an issue. I have run front and rear wings that don't match one another, nor the body (ie an F2012 Ferrari doesn't have to run the F2012 front or rear wings to be ok).
That's quite liberal compared to 1/1 F1 I was considering the Tamiya 1994 Ferrari bodyshell for aesthetic reasons. Thanks for the response. I'll ask my local track too.

I'm also curious what the difficulty curve is for a 1/10th RC as far as driving.

Do you find open-wheel cars get wrecked easier on tracks than closed wheel?
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:44 PM   #9473
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Quote:
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That's quite liberal compared to 1/1 F1 I was considering the Tamiya 1994 Ferrari bodyshell for aesthetic reasons. Thanks for the response. I'll ask my local track too.

I'm also curious what the difficulty curve is for a 1/10th RC as far as driving. Well being 2 wheel drive it is a lot more refined than 4wd, easy throttle makes for smoother control

Do you find open-wheel cars get wrecked easier on tracks than closed wheel? They are surpisingly very robust, and racing open wheel can leave you open to damage but just keep in mind the others on the track, if you are slower just move over let the fast guys through this will make for longer runs without any damage and not create any ill feeling between drivers. We race for sheep stations at nationals not club meets. But in saying this they can break if you treat them like a tourer
Build your F1 and have fun thats what it is all about really
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:56 PM   #9474
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I find open wheel is more prone to accidents/incidents but not necessarily more prone to damage. Wheel to wheel racing is much more difficult with open wheel as the slightest touch can sent a car flying much easier than with other cars. But as stated above the cars are very robust and not easy to break...so long as you don't put too much power into them. The current 21.5 motor rule that most clubs follow is perfect for the cars. Just fast enough but not too fast to start breaking stuff. If you go faster from there you will start breaking like any other car.
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:58 PM   #9475
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Hey guys and girls
It has been a while since I posted anything on here and it has been a busy couple of months.
First of all congratulations to Mario and CRC for the IIC win the cars were the class of the field all week.
Secondly for those of you that haven't heard I have renamed my company. Going forward we will be known as F1R/C LAB
To go with the new name we have a brand new completely redesigned website. You can see it at http://f1rclab.com the store URL has changed as well, it is http://f1rclab.bigcommerce.com There is also a link to the store on the homepage.
Last but definitely not least, we debuted our first tshirt design at IIC and they are available for sale in the store


Enjoy, and stay tuned because there is a lot of stuff in the pipeline
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:39 PM   #9476
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Thanks brad. It was good talking to you in Vegas, even if we agree to disagree on certain things.

New site looks great.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:24 AM   #9477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al dente View Post
Thanks brad. It was good talking to you in Vegas, even if we agree to disagree on certain things.

New site looks great.
I am planning on getting the new CRC F1 once they are released. I just need some esc & motor advice. My current F1 has a Speed Passion Citrix esc & a Tekin 21.5 brushless motor. I have no issues with the Citrix esc, but was questioning if the new Speed Passion Revention might be better or maybe a Hobbywing (blinky mode for all). Also I intend on getting a D3.5 21.5 motor, but questioning if a high torque rotor would be of any benefit, I know they are the way to go in 1S 1/12th scale. I know power is not the missing link for F1, but having the best you can have never hurt.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:32 AM   #9478
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Are any of you guys using the new Tuning Haus wing brace? How are you securing it? I tried using a 3mm countersunk washer but it's the same size and the hole in the brace.
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:27 PM   #9479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godzukihop View Post
I am planning on getting the new CRC F1 once they are released. I just need some esc & motor advice. My current F1 has a Speed Passion Citrix esc & a Tekin 21.5 brushless motor. I have no issues with the Citrix esc, but was questioning if the new Speed Passion Revention might be better or maybe a Hobbywing (blinky mode for all). Also I intend on getting a D3.5 21.5 motor, but questioning if a high torque rotor would be of any benefit, I know they are the way to go in 1S 1/12th scale. I know power is not the missing link for F1, but having the best you can have never hurt.
Real estate in any f1 car is at a premium. Most f1 racing is blinky, a small speedo is a good idea. I would suggest the hobbywing justock. It us small, has an awesome feel, and is inexpensive. I ran an orca in Vegas, and was very impressed. The motor was box stock. I would also stay away from the d3.5, due to the whole legality issue at some races.

Just my .02
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:32 PM   #9480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al dente View Post
Real estate in any f1 car is at a premium. Most f1 racing is blinky, a small speedo is a good idea. I would suggest the hobbywing justock. It us small, has an awesome feel, and is inexpensive. I ran an orca in Vegas, and was very impressed. The motor was box stock. I would also stay away from the d3.5, due to the whole legality issue at some races.

Just my .02
Thank you for the info. What about the high toque rotor? Will it help or maybe hurt?
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