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Old 08-16-2013, 01:24 AM   #9241
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Sadly i'm painting a new mercedes 2013 with the f2012 body ... the difference is that so big with the f60?

what do you use to paint the wings ?
I found that using FASCOLOR paints letting dry over night then spray an automotive clear coat and dry that with a hair dryer, did this to my FGX wing for the LOTUS 2013 no cracks no peeling didn't even show signs of fractured paint after siding on the wing in accidents.

leave any masking on until complete dont spray the clear coat directly on the plastic.
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Old 08-16-2013, 03:53 AM   #9242
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I found that using FASCOLOR paints letting dry over night then spray an automotive clear coat and dry that with a hair dryer, did this to my FGX wing for the LOTUS 2013 no cracks no peeling didn't even show signs of fractured paint after siding on the wing in accidents.

leave any masking on until complete dont spray the clear coat directly on the plastic.
You don't use sand paper first ?
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Old 08-16-2013, 02:33 PM   #9243
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You don't use sand paper first ?
NO just clean with metho let dry, If you use sand paper or even a scotch bright pad it will show in the paint The key is to let dry completely. I have used mine in four rounds so far and still looks new and so does my team mates
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:19 PM   #9244
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ok thanks, i'll try it on a future project.
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:24 AM   #9245
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Originally Posted by merkyworks View Post
I thought it was just the F2012 front wing that messed things up and by putting a F60 front wing on fixed this.
IMO, using the F60 front wing on the F2012 looks bad. The scale appearance is very important to me so I just defer to the F60. The F2012 does look sexi though
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:44 AM   #9246
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I had my first two races on saturday with the front axle. It is impressing how much more speed the car carries through a corner and how fast in turns in the middle of it.
Even with only 80% motor power (otherwise I won't be able to get over the 15 minutes with my 10.5t) I could lap 15.4s (before with full power 15.9s). The second race was the most fun as I could battle with the Pro10 drivers. It was thrilling not to make any mistake as the field stayed close together all the time.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:06 AM   #9247
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Hey all: Didn't know where else to put this so I thought i'd ask here. Love the look of the new Corally USA site and was wondering if they had plans on a slx version of there F1 and WGT pan cars? Thanks
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:36 PM   #9248
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Default Chassis?

WTCC,
What chassis are you using in the Ferrari?
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:36 PM   #9249
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WTCC,
What chassis are you using in the Ferrari?
Except for the front axle everything else is a F104v2 pro.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:40 PM   #9250
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Any tips on how the paint the driver ad with what?
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:13 PM   #9251
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Except for the front axle everything else is a F104v2 pro.
so which front end set up is that ?? looks lik the t.o.p. front end
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #9252
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the goodyear tyres stickers really finish it off
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:36 PM   #9253
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Quote:
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so which front end set up is that ?? looks lik the t.o.p. front end
It's Associated TC6 parts, go back a few pages in this thread to see where it came from.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12412862-post9176.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12439897-post9223.html
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:11 AM   #9254
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Hi guys, Me again with a quick question - Can anyone tell me why you should drill holes in the wheels when putting the Pit Shimzu tyres on?
Is it as obvious as helping heat dissipation, or are there other reasons?

Cheers!
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:58 AM   #9255
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Hi guys, Me again with a quick question - Can anyone tell me why you should drill holes in the wheels when putting the Pit Shimzu tyres on?
Is it as obvious as helping heat dissipation, or are there other reasons?

Cheers!
all rubber tyres need a hole drilled in the inside of rim(to let air escape from heat build up i think) and if you are using foam rims for rubber they wont have a hole std.
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