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Old 11-13-2008, 11:01 PM   #76
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I looked at the site Vyger, but I think people who make these F1 cars miss the boat completely for racing..
I dont think we are missing the boat at all. We are all in the boat with the throttle pegged and were going WoooHoooo all the way down the river. We run everything including Cross, Corally, and Low production runs from independent manufacturers, Like MLP and ACR. What a blast.

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I have not heard.. or seen anywhere where they are running hopped up modded out, F1s.. if you were going to do that.. you would be in 1/12 or TC both established and busy classes.
We are showing you where we run. There are F1 Clubs here and in the UK that run more than just TCS legal cars.
Im just not following you here. How does having an F1 car made from nicer materials put you in 1/12 or TC? Or are you just saying that those are the classes that spend money on nicer gear?

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We have 40+ drivers now with Tamiya chassis.. it will never happen that anyone showing up with one of these or a Corally or Cross etc.. will be allowed to run.. then it turns it into a class like all others. Most are against using a front suspension that allows adjustment.. then everyone would have to use it.. or your not competitive again..
Thats great that you have that many drivers. And look you can all swap parts. No really its great that you have good close racing. So I guess everyone there is settled into the F103?
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Old 11-14-2008, 12:29 PM   #77
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Amazing stuff!

My poor wife did not how big of dork I was until she listened to all my "ooos" and "aahs" viewing those pics.
Almost as good as going to the beach...except you don't get in as much trouble!
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Old 11-15-2008, 06:44 PM   #78
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Give me some time to find the pics of my 1996 (Kellogs), 1997 (Old Spice), 1999 (Buell American Motorcycle) and 2002 (John Player) Tamiya National Champiomship concourse winning F-1's, all rattle can and much blood, sweet and tears winners......

Marty (the Father of Vintage Trans-AM)
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:59 PM   #79
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Awesome!
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Old 11-15-2008, 08:05 PM   #80
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Give me some time to find the pics of my 1996 (Kellogs), 1997 (Old Spice), 1999 (Buell American Motorcycle) and 2002 (John Player) Tamiya National Champiomship concourse winning F-1's, all rattle can and much blood, sweet and tears winners......

Marty (the Father of Vintage Trans-AM)
Times up! Let's see'em!
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:11 AM   #81
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just in case someone is interested... some of the HK hobby shops have the new Cross Fireforce CF-01'08 kit in stock.
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Old 11-16-2008, 05:30 PM   #82
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I’m still working on the MP4/7 body. It hasn’t been an easy cut and mount job. I’m just happy I decided to stick with my plan to cut & fit before paint. Trimming the TRG body on the provided trim lines would have been a disaster. So it’s taking a little more time than I was anticipateing.

Since I didn’t feel like working on the body last night I decided to throw together another chassis, since I’ll need one for the FW-16 body project down the road.

All the chassis I’ve done to date have been from kits and added hop-ups. This time I decided I’d build the car from just spare parts and hop-ups. I also thought I’d try an idea that I’ve had for a while to replace the stock T-plate bulk heads. I figure the car isn’t based on any Tamiya kit and the body is aftermarket, so why not have a little fun with it.

Here are the basic parts I’ve started with. Most of the parts making up the car are hop-ups so I don’t have to scrounge up to many things to get this complete. As you can see I have a carbon chassis, upper deck, aluminum diff joints, TRF Shock, aluminum motor mount, 3-Racing’s adjustable damper post and graphite rear axle, light weight rear hubs and bearings.



I started off with building the rear pod. Dropped the bearings into place, then slid in the graphite axel in. I secured both rear hubs, remember to use a little lock tight on the setscrews, I’ve had these loosen up at a race and it sucks. Then I put a small amount of diff grease on the face of the diff joint. This will keep the diff ring from falling off during assembly. Next I applied a little grease to the diff ring and rubbed it around to coat the surface. After that I slid on the inside diff joint. You’ll notice from the pics I also added some diff grease to the hub. The reason I do this is I’ve noticed over the years that the hub will show signs of wear. It’s not from the bearings because I check those regularly. So my thought is just add a little grease just incase, what can it hurt. Next was the spur gear. I add a little diff grease to each hole, then I drop the balls in and add a little more grease. Once the spur gear is in place I add more grease to the shoulder of the gear and slide on the remaining diff joint. I prefer to use the thrust assembly pictured instead of the rings and balls supplied in the kit. Tamiya sells this part separately and I think it works a little better. I use a very hard grease for this. Something like Associated’s black grease works well.














With the pod complete it was onto the chassis. I used Square Racing’s 3x35mm titanium screws up front for the servo holders. At the rear of the chassis I went a different route. I took some old carbon scrap and cut two cross sections to replace the stock T-plate bulk heads. I used four of the Tamiya F1 shock posts to provide support for the upper deck. The shock posts are threaded from both ends so I didn’t have to use the 3x35mm screws like normal. I secured the post from the bottom using four 3x8mm titanium socket head countersunk screws. Then I mounted the T-plate and shock post. Next was the upper deck. I used the four 3x8 aluminum socket head screws and Tamiya damper spacers as a washer on all six upper deck mounting locations.






For the rear damper I’ve always used a little of the Hard Grease to provide some of the dampening of the adjustable rear post. I just smear a little on the post and slide the body on. The reason I do this is there’s a little play when this is assembled. I use to wrap plumbers tape around the steal post to take up the gap. It worked well, but this works just as good and it’s allot easier. One thing I’d like to point out. The cap that threads on and holds the upper spring can come loose from vibration. I strongly suggest you add a small amount of lock tight to the threads. If you have to replace this part from wear, I’d suggest looking at 3-Racings adjustable damper post. It’s a little cheaper than the Tamiya part and the cap has an o-ring in the center. This really helps to hold the setting and isn’t as messy as the lock tight.













Up at the front end of the car I had to use the old style kingpins to secure the axels. I say old because these are from way back when the F101 was the top dog from Tamiya’s F1 lineup. To use these you have to run a setscrew in the back of the axel, slide the kingpin into place and measure 8.5mm top and bottom, then tighten. I should mention it’s a good idea to use the set screw in the back of the axel even if you’re using the newer kingpins. I do this to remove slop from the front and it means the kingpins are turning when I crank the wheel, not the nylon part. I’ve always thought the nylon could cause some drag. Once the kings pins are in I pull out that hard grease I used on the rear damper and apply it to the kingpins. Again, this will provide some extra dampening in the front end. Remember it’s just a little spring up there. You can use different viscosity greases to find your ideal setup. When those where done I bolted the front end in.









I’m using the Tamiya F103 turnbuckles but I substituted the kit supplied ball ends for the Tamiya Molly ball ends. These are a little more hard then the black plastic ones and shouldn’t stretch as much over time. I’m using the Tamiya black heavy duty servo saver and to this I mounted two 5mm aluminum ball nuts. The problem I ran into the larger ball nuts and molly ball ends rubbed against the servo mount. Because I didn’t want to compromise my original idea I decided I’d trim down the servo mount. I taped it off, dew a diagonal line and cut it using a Tamiya hobby saw (it was sort of late at night and I didn’t want to wake my wife with the Dremel). They came pretty nice and will still secure the servo without any problems. Now the ball ends wont rub against the servo mount and we’re good to go. Chassis complete.













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Last edited by Vyger; 11-17-2008 at 10:33 AM. Reason: fixed photobucket link
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Old 11-16-2008, 10:31 PM   #83
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Well I got some time tonight to get back to the Sauber. I put the stickers on the rear wing and helmet. I finished the interior and even added a front antenna to the car. Now if I only had mirrors???

Getting started with the helmet I first applied some of Tamiyaís simi-gloss black on the visor and around the edges. Since the helmet is painted white and the sticker has black around this area (the visor). I didnít want any white seems to show up between the three sticker pieces. So I applied the black paint around these areas. I decided to paint the whole visor so I didnít have to worry about getting a white shadow burning through the center because only the edges where painted. After the paint had time to dry I laid the remaining stickers. I also pulled out the flat black paint and put an edge on the bottom part of the helmet.





My finished Tamiya Sauber C12 Mercedes














After snapping the pics above and referring to some pics of the real car from the internet. I thought Iíd try an old plastic modeling trick Iíve heard about. Since Iím trying to simulate the photoís I needed to have an antenna on the front of the car. Iíve heard from friends and plastic model builders you can make antenna wires from plastic sprueís (a sprue is found on injection molded products).

What youíll need. A third hand (if you donít have one naturally you can buy one of these at any decent hobby shop), forceps, lighter or candle (Iíd suggest a candle it would be way easier to control the heat with one of those), flush cuts, and a sprue.



Trim off a nice straight piece. Then lock the forceps down to hold the sprue. Secure it with the third hand and slowly heat the plastic. Let it get hot and start to cool down before you start pulling. If itís to hot and you pull it too fast it will just come apart. You want to encourage the plastic to stretch out once itís loose from heat.








Once the part cooled down I snipped off the end and bent it ninety degrees to make an L shape.




Since the hole Iím needing is smaller than any drill bit I own, I used the tip of a new Xacto knife to slowly make a what I needed. I stopped and measured for size a few times to ensure a snug fit. Once the whole was complete I secured the antenna from the inside of the car using a piece of painters tape. Then I added some black paint. Let me know what you guys think.





My newly finished Sauber C12 Mercedes



Awsome stuff Vyger!
I am working on some vintage bodies myself, the first being a Lotus 102D
and here is a McLaren I did a few years ago, sold it on ebay, but I have another one and an MP4/6 that I am collecting pieces for ( need a rear wing and the decal sheet)

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Old 11-16-2008, 11:20 PM   #84
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BP, how did you secure the rear wing to the chassis? I have the same Mclaren body
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:01 AM   #85
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whoaah nice f1s youve got there sir...
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:58 AM   #86
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BP, how did you secure the rear wing to the chassis? I have the same Mclaren body
There should be holes on the back of the gearbox housing. If you run the molded plastic wings , the wing caps over the mounts on the gearbox. If you look at the back of the gearbox housing, there should be holes on the tops of the mounts sticking out the back. You feed the wire in from the top, and use screws in the horizontal holes to set the wire. I will post pics later when I get a chance
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Old 11-17-2008, 09:48 AM   #87
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Thank you everyone. I trully hope the builds are helpfull.

Hey BP, that's a nice lookin McLaren! I'm currently working on one of those. I picked up the TRG MP 4/7 body from RC Mart and wings on ebay. After I finish that one I have the MP4/6 from Tamiya. I hope they both turn out as nice as yours.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:16 PM   #88
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Thank you everyone. I trully hope the builds are helpfull.

Hey BP, that's a nice lookin McLaren! I'm currently working on one of those. I picked up the TRG MP 4/7 body from RC Mart and wings on ebay. After I finish that one I have the MP4/6 from Tamiya. I hope they both turn out as nice as yours.
Thanx, it was pretty good, but the next one will be better than that. I am my own worst critic though
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:08 PM   #89
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Thank you everyone. I trully hope the builds are helpfull.

Hey BP, that's a nice lookin McLaren! I'm currently working on one of those. I picked up the TRG MP 4/7 body from RC Mart and wings on ebay. After I finish that one I have the MP4/6 from Tamiya. I hope they both turn out as nice as yours.
So Vyger... will any of these cars see any track time soon?
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:53 PM   #90
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So Vyger... will any of these cars see any track time soon?
LOL That's a good question...

Unfortunately there aren't too many tracks around me...you know out here in Jackson, Mississippi.
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Last edited by Vyger; 11-17-2008 at 05:50 PM.
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