MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Ya know I have tried so many times to produce F1 products but ultimately it just ends up being a waste of time and money!! Everybody want s these things i create but when it comes time to purchase them everyone goes MIA! Off road pays my bills but i enjoy on road with a passion. But with that being said i can custom make anything the cost just isnt as cheap. I am not sure if the prop balancer can support the weight of off road wheels and tires, but i have not tried.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

PIT/TCS rear tire testing:
85* ambient temperature
75% humidity
112* track temp
unprepped asphalt

Each tire was coated with SWEEP tire conditioner at the same time and left uncovered all night.
Each set was run hard for exactly 10 minutes on fresh packs
PIT 0572

Tamiya TCS


Just like i stated in the beginning of this whole thing the tires are different, the PIT's have this strange wavy texture to them that was not there in the beginning and the center stripe is still there. The TCS tires have a slightly grainy texture and the stripe is almost gone indicating that they are in fact softer than the hard 572. So in conclusion I think it is safe to say that the compounds are NOT the same. I rest my case

fastvee

interesting... -does the Tamiya tires also suffer from sidewall damage? (I have never tried the tcs options)

-cant get more then ~45minutes from new set of pits before they need sidewall repair...

Great grip but a lot of work to keep them going.

-Pate

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

The sidewall damage you are getting is because you are not prepping the wheel properly, you have to round off that sharp edge on the outside or else everytime you wreck,flip the car or wall slap the wheel digs into the lip on the tire!! It can and will still happen but it slows it down alot.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Whenever I run new TCS and Pit tires, sometimes the wavy pattern appears and sometimes it doesn't...depending on track conditions. Still, they are the same compound

fastvee

Trust me, I have rounded the wheels as much as I belive they can be rounded b4 the plastic gets too thin. -and I very rarely crash or flip these. -last time was on carpet but now we drive on outdoor asphalt.

-we dont even have a wall to hit the sidewalls, only gravel pits.(and never got the car to go there eighter)

I think I will try only gluing the edge of rear tires next so the sidewall does not have any glue and can flex freely. -has any 1 tried this?

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Because of the lettering on the side, the TSC tires are out of balance.

Speed Nerd

Just found this i must be blind :/ lol

I am looking to get a F1 car i have my eye on the Tamiya F104 as i would like to race to may be carpet or tarmac depend were i can find a club that race them. Am i looking at the right car to get or are there better alternatives ?

Thanks

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Thats how I always glue them, so you are gluing under the lip? like the instructions say?

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I'm not Marcus, nor do I have the "expertise" or "authority" to claim that I am anybody you should pay attention to but I'll try to help you out with gluing TCS or Pit tires onto Tamiya foam wheels. The following is my routine...

I don't round edges of the wheels to prevent sidewall cutting

Step 1
I take the rear inserts out of the tire package and use Elmer's contact cement to glue the inserts together. I use a bit of masking tape to temporarily hold things together. By the time you get to putting the inserts in the tire, they'll be dry.

Here's the stuff that I use:


Step 2
Take all of the Tamiya foam wheels and drill 2 3mm holes into each one.

Step 3
Clean the wheel surfaces that will be glued with motorspray and a paper towel.

Step 4
Clean the tire surfaces that will be in contact the wheel with motorspray and a paper towel. Avoid getting motorspray on the tire tread or on too much of the sidewall.

Step 5
Remove the masking tape from the rear inserts and carefully place inserts into the rear tires.

Step 6
Mount the tires on to the rim. Take your time and make sure things look as lined up as possible. With a driver or other tool, spin the wheel/tire in your hand and see if there are any wobbles. Sometimes inserts can bunch up and cause a wobble. If you encounter a wobbler, remove the wheel and insert and try reassembling them. Once satisfied , press the outside lip of the tire against the wheel to ensure that it seats well and has nice contact patch.

Step 7
I usually glue the outside first...Use your most trusted instant CA (I've had bad bottles that don't stick) with a fine glue tip. Double check that the sidewalls are well seated to the wheel. Find a starting point and apply a small-microscopic amount of glue to the wheel and tire. Apply another tiny drop of glue approximately 15 degrees away from the first. Continue doing this until you go full circle. What happens when too much glue is applied is that the glue will wick between the wheel and tire and cause the tire's edge to lift and float on wet glue.

Step 8
When the glue has thoroughly dried, repeat the above step but apply glue to unglued spots. The idea is use the least amount of glue to hold things together.

Step 9
Repeat again. By this time, the edge of the tire should be mostly be glued to the wheel.

Step 10
When comfortable that the tire edge won't shift or lift off the wheel, run a bead of glue around the entire edge. Some glue will wick into the sidewall between the tire and wheel but the tire edge won't lift.

Step 11
I plan to crash a lot so I run another bead of glue around the entire edge

Step 12
For the inside edge of the tire/wheel, repeat the previous steps. Sometimes, a rubber band wrapped around the tire helps if the tire is not seating well on the rim.


This process is time consuming but I've been satisfied with the results so far. I hope this helps.



PS
If I rush, I get the sidewall lift off and that is a pain to fix...I apply some CA to the lifting spot, press it down, and apply tiny bit of CA kicker (using a small straw dipped into some kicker) until it sticks...then I move on to the next watoozie spot

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Sorry but they are not the same, TCS do not and will not wave like that( you probably had 572's on when you saw the wave). If you can make them do it lets see a pic! If it was track conditions then why were they different today? I just proved that under identical situations and at the same time they are different, just as i said from the beginning You dont even make sense to be honest, if it depended on track conditions and driven at the same time then what happened today?

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

As I have stated before, and have been confirmed by the folks who worked on the project. They are the same compound.

InspGadgt

Yup...my last set I ran before switching to HPI tires (now going back to Pits) I rounded off the edges and still had issues with the sidewalls cutting.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Just because your sisters, uncles best friend that works at Tamiya say so means nothing!! Maybe PIT pulled a fast one on Tamiya I have shown you proof that they are not and you have only attempted to argue by keyboard with ZERO proof except hearsay!! Post some pics, show some proof! By all means prove me wrong. I have gone out of my way and conducted what i believe is about as accurate as i can do with out and actual material sample that they are not the same. If you choose not to believe than so be it but if so you are simply blind or your computer screen needs cleaning

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Were you gluing under the lip or just the edge?