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Old 04-30-2013, 06:22 PM   #8011
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
How do you know you are 1 sec behind so you can open your wing?
it's 1/10 scale. It should be converted to 1/10 second behind.
So, never open the wing.

*it's free of use in qualifying though.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:45 PM   #8012
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A speed defendant spring loaded clutch may be a better answer to activate the spoiler lifting mechanism but that would add weight to the rotational mass somewhere.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:26 AM   #8013
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The DRS system is sorta funny. I see no advantage as we have way more torque and horsepower in our scale cars. Just more weight on the chassis as Ed pointed out.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:29 AM   #8014
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The DRS system is sorta funny. I see no advantage as we have way more torque and horsepower in our scale cars. Just more weight on the chassis as Ed pointed out.
But it looks so cool! But the wife looked at me like I was crazy when I said I was going to buy it just to have it.
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eBay item number: 200947192161,200947193175,200947187493
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:37 AM   #8015
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But it looks so cool! But the wife looked at me like I was crazy when I said I was going to buy it just to have it.
I would have Alonso's luck with the Bahrain GP. Poor Fernando.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:06 AM   #8016
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I would have Alonso's luck with the Bahrain GP. Poor Fernando.
Not that I am a fan of F.A. I am a Ferrari fan, but I love all the cars, there's nothing better.

I feel if one car stops working none should work. same with the kers (kinetic energy recovery system) then again I would mind if they got rid of both of them.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:12 AM   #8017
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Not to change the subject but for the people out there that want to try running HPI Vintage wheels and tires I still need to know if anyone else wants to jump in on this, the more we buy the cheaper they will be. I am going to get my self a set for the VF1 Car I have!




Rear 14 to 12mm Hub Adapters for all Tamiya type rear hubs. Full details under post #8008 right here.
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Selling HPI F10 Front Knuckles and Complete Rear Axles W/Diffs Ball and Gear.
W/12mm TC Hubs & W/14mm F1 Hubs Good for std bearing Pans cars. STD Bearings!
eBay item number: 200947192161,200947193175,200947187493
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:14 AM   #8018
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
The DRS system is sorta funny. I see no advantage as we have way more torque and horsepower in our scale cars. Just more weight on the chassis as Ed pointed out.
RCTech user Grenade10 used a similar system on the wing of a Chapparal HO slot car way back when he was a kid. It used the motor rocking side to side in its mount for actuation; angled under deceleration, flat under acceleration. There was no performance gain, but it did psych out the other drivers, who thought it might have an effect.
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:33 AM   #8019
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Originally Posted by Marty Peterson View Post
Not to change the subject but for the people out there that want to try running HPI Vintage wheels and tires I still need to know if anyone else wants to jump in on this, the more we buy the cheaper they will be. I am going to get my self a set for the VF1 Car I have!




Rear 14 to 12mm Hub Adapters for all Tamiya type rear hubs. Full details under post #8008 right here.

I'm definitely interested Marty!
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #8020
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Ditto for me, Marty. Any idea what the cost might be on the high end?

scott
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:13 AM   #8021
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Anyone know what happened to the d-drivesportsenglish site? it's been under construction for months...
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:40 AM   #8022
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Hy guys one japanese have made a fantastic really driver for the f104 , i am sorry but can not write the url , but search in you tube this

RC F1 ONBOARD CAMERA 8 LOTUS E20 on track .
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:02 AM   #8023
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Ditto for me, Marty. Any idea what the cost might be on the high end?

scott
No Scott, it will all come down to how many is made and what they will be made out of, Nylon I would guess it would be the cheapest, then plastic, last Aluminum, but I should know in the next 48 to 72 hours.

I do not think it will be all that much, the design, setup & run time is what coasts the most. no, matter what the part is made from.

@ David I knew you would be in for a set.
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Selling HPI F10 Front Knuckles and Complete Rear Axles W/Diffs Ball and Gear.
W/12mm TC Hubs & W/14mm F1 Hubs Good for std bearing Pans cars. STD Bearings!
eBay item number: 200947192161,200947193175,200947187493
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:26 AM   #8024
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What are the holes on the brake disc for? Did they do that in the 60's? (Sorry, just being a smarta$$) Anyway, sign me up! You're doing the front and rear?
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:08 PM   #8025
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[QUOTE=Marty Peterson;12103163]Hi everyone, The Age Old Question? 14mm to 12mm rear hubs & F103, 04, Pro, ..... Front Knuckles & Axles for 12mm Hubs?


Look nice, Marty! I have made adapters like your first design in the past. I drilled the wheel to accept a flanged bearing to support the wheel on a wider base. Works well but then the wheels are modified.

Let's do some brainstorming on making some front adapters similar to your rears for the front. It would be great to just use the F104 type parts and the VTA wheels!!

I used the Tammy GT rear diff and rear adapters which are 12mm and it works out to 190 mm wide with the VTA wheels. This would be a simpler and likey cheaper solution.

Have you laid out the width on the front end with this type of adapter and the different width arms? I think it may require the narrow F104 arms to get downt to 190mm.

One suggestion-The disks on most of these cars were not inside the wheels as they are today. They were inboard of the wheel in the airflow. Consider moving the disk inboard for more realism!!

1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...-lotus-49-cosworth_9.jpg
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