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Old 04-09-2013, 05:26 PM   #7636
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Originally Posted by GryphunRacing View Post
Look what the postman brought today...
I am jelly! Get that thing built and on the track. Let us know how it works.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:06 PM   #7637
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Originally Posted by terry.sc View Post
Although F1RCGP allow gyros those drive exactly the same as the wide F1s I use, without gyro. The faster cornering speed and better handling is down to the use of wide cars and foam tyres, including the rear stepping out more gradually giving you time to correct it before spinning out. Here we run both narrow/rubber and wide/foam, at our last nationals every one of the foam cars qualified faster than the pole rubber car, using the same motor.

UF1 decided to choose scale looks over performance, Asia prefers performance and handling over scalel looks.
Terry i hope you dont take this to hard but Here in Japan gyros are not the norm,Only the the one class uses them and it has become the class that nobody runs, The Gyro class is basicly the class used to try and sell stuff,The drivers are forced to run items that are not very good,and over powered because they are sponcered. Scale is still king here but you dont see it because F1RCGP is trying to make keep sponcers happy so they can sell stuff,even the whole gryo idea came about because Zen want to sell them so F1RCGP allowed them. Also they are using spec tires (sponcer) so the cars handle like junk on some tracks without the gyro. One of my buddies runs this series because he is sponcered and really doesnt like it.He is stuck running a junk chassis,using a gyro,and having a body painted in none scale colors.People seeing this on F1RCGP website get the wrong idea nd think it what people like here. People do like 200mm,but they like it because they still love the scale look of the older 90s F1 cars when Japan was very involved in real F1. For every F1RCGP race you see on the website there are 20 Scale races here in Japan with more drivers showing up that dont get shown on a website because that is the norm in Japan,F1RCGP is the exception.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:13 PM   #7638
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Sorry to not get back to you sooner, I actually got to race this weekend VTA & TC!!
With the GFX conversion to use the VTA stuff the F103, F109, and the Tech arms all come out at ~188mm, as close as I can measure. Rear is the same, I could widen or narrow the front a few mm with different hexes, I'm still using the 3R brake disks on the front. I think I can cut off a few mm of the upper a-arm where the two 4mm screws go thru and them bend the arms up which might give me a little camber too.

Yes I'm using standard VTA 26 and 31 mm front and rear wheels, tires.

ned
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Hi Ned,

The more I look at it, the more I'm liking the F103 front arms as they are upswept, and if you paint them chrome silver and cover the upper A arm with a piece of chrome monokote to fill in the open area of the "A" they will look darn close to right! And since you said that with those arms that the front and rear widths would be equal, around 188mm, it should look and work fine!

Using the VTA wheels/tires, is it possible to get the rear width to 190mm or slightly more?

One last thing......I see that you are using the actual F104 chassis with the t-bar...how are you mounting the esc and receiver? Are they in front of, or behind the "shorty" battery? Does it conflict with the movement of the t-bar?
Would you please post a picture(s) of your chassis without the body?

Thanks
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:59 PM   #7639
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Some off season testing in houston!
UF1houston season begins next month! Lots of chassis changes and some driver changes as well. Team Renault (Marcus and Clay) won the MFG championship as well as 2nd and 3rd in drivers running the RCShox FQ01 which holds the current track record at Mikes! the FQ2013 is 100g lighter, lower CG and extensive AERO work. We are switching to Petronas Mercedes for this season.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9OvOXZe9JU
test car

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Old 04-09-2013, 09:13 PM   #7640
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Originally Posted by Team Lotus View Post
Hi Ned,

The more I look at it, the more I'm liking the F103 front arms as they are upswept, and if you paint them chrome silver and cover the upper A arm with a piece of chrome monokote to fill in the open area of the "A" they will look darn close to right! And since you said that with those arms that the front and rear widths would be equal, around 188mm, it should look and work fine!

Using the VTA wheels/tires, is it possible to get the rear width to 190mm or slightly more?

One last thing......I see that you are using the actual F104 chassis with the t-bar...how are you mounting the esc and receiver? Are they in front of, or behind the "shorty" battery? Does it conflict with the movement of the t-bar?
Would you please post a picture(s) of your chassis without the body?

Thanks
Don't give up on the Tech arms for "scale" especially if you don't have a class to actually race under the rules. I angled them and painted them again and will post pics soon. I may try to Monocote them as none of the chrome pain I've ried have really looked good.

Yes, 188 to 190 is no problem, more should be easy with wider hexes in front and spacers on the axles in the rear.

All my width numbers are with VTA wheels and tires 26 front and 31 rear, with the "+2" GT rear hub adapter and diff and the FGX front hubs. Interestngly enough, if I read the 1:1 F1 rules from 1967 correctly, 1880mm is the max width ;-)

The F104 t-bar is thinner than the chassis and since it is flush with the lower surface, it is recessed on top. It's not a conventionally mounted t-bar system so it really never goes above the surface. On the stock kit, with the long battery or shorty to the rear, it works fine. If you put the ESC or RX to the rear you have to put something like a piece of lexan or carbon fiber back there to bridge the t-bar. You could also mount them to the sides.

I still don't have a runnable chassis set-up but I'll try to take csome picks of possible options.

Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:18 PM   #7641
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
Terry i hope you dont take this to hard but Here in Japan gyros are not the norm,Only the the one class uses them and it has become the class that nobody runs, The Gyro class is basicly the class used to try and sell stuff,The drivers are forced to run items that are not very good,and over powered because they are sponcered. Scale is still king here but you dont see it because F1RCGP is trying to make keep sponcers happy so they can sell stuff,even the whole gryo idea came about because Zen want to sell them so F1RCGP allowed them. Also they are using spec tires (sponcer) so the cars handle like junk on some tracks without the gyro. One of my buddies runs this series because he is sponcered and really doesnt like it.He is stuck running a junk chassis,using a gyro,and having a body painted in none scale colors.People seeing this on F1RCGP website get the wrong idea nd think it what people like here. People do like 200mm,but they like it because they still love the scale look of the older 90s F1 cars when Japan was very involved in real F1. For every F1RCGP race you see on the website there are 20 Scale races here in Japan with more drivers showing up that dont get shown on a website because that is the norm in Japan,F1RCGP is the exception.
Oh man why didn't i know about you when i went to japan last month... i would of got you to take me to some RC tracks .
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:54 AM   #7642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarcobra View Post
Don't give up on the Tech arms for "scale" especially if you don't have a class to actually race under the rules. I angled them and painted them again and will post pics soon. I may try to Monocote them as none of the chrome pain I've ried have really looked good.

Yes, 188 to 190 is no problem, more should be easy with wider hexes in front and spacers on the axles in the rear.

All my width numbers are with VTA wheels and tires 26 front and 31 rear, with the "+2" GT rear hub adapter and diff and the FGX front hubs. Interestngly enough, if I read the 1:1 F1 rules from 1967 correctly, 1880mm is the max width ;-)

The F104 t-bar is thinner than the chassis and since it is flush with the lower surface, it is recessed on top. It's not a conventionally mounted t-bar system so it really never goes above the surface. On the stock kit, with the long battery or shorty to the rear, it works fine. If you put the ESC or RX to the rear you have to put something like a piece of lexan or carbon fiber back there to bridge the t-bar. You could also mount them to the sides.

I still don't have a runnable chassis set-up but I'll try to take csome picks of possible options.

Good luck!
Thanks Ned, looking forward to seeing more pictures of that Tech front end as you continue to work on it, as well as those chassis shots.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:27 AM   #7643
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Any ideas of paint scheme for f104 pro body?

Since the titanium special v2 that I ordered comes with that body I want to try to make it decent looking. -it is pretty light so should be fast body.

Thinking of Jordan EJ10 would look quite close to the body/wings that the kit comes with?

this looks like pro body?

(image from F1Paintlab)

any other liveries that would look good on that body?

-Pate
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:29 AM   #7644
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Too much like a bumble bee
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #7645
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Mantisworx,

How do you get that matte black finish on the body?

Last edited by JiuHaWong; 04-11-2013 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:26 PM   #7646
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Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
Matisworx,

How do you get that matte black finish on the body?
I've used Tamiya's 86055 PS Flat Clear. You spray it on the exterior. It works really well, levels out after spraying, and it's pretty damn durable. I used it on the wings as well.



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Old 04-10-2013, 05:39 PM   #7647
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Wow. That contrast is a killer!
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:40 PM   #7648
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I've used Tamiya's 86055 PS Flat Clear. You spray it on the exterior. It works really well, levels out after spraying, and it's pretty damn durable. I used it on the wings as well.
Thanks Vyger, looks like several places are out of it. Any alternatives?
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #7649
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Default Is 2012 sauber nose black or gunmetal?



In some pictures it looks black but it also looks more gunmetal.. And why doesn't paintlab decal provide the red stripe for the borderline?
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:41 PM   #7650
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Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
Thanks Vyger, looks like several places are out of it. Any alternatives?
I use the Pactra backing black.


My SWEEP tires came in today. I made and install video and a little review! check it out!


http://www.uf1houston.com/index.php?...d-information/
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