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Old 02-21-2013, 07:19 PM   #7096
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I am too far away.
I am still catching up on the 2012 season f1 races. If anyone wants to watch them here is the link.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:41 AM   #7097
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Good luck! After running the FGX for a year, I'm still impressed with it. It should offer very good competition.
Last night i've been testing the ride R1 tires and they aren't as good as the TCS versions of pit shimizu tires
My guess is that the R1 combination is between 0.5s to 1 second slower then my TCS combination.
With the TCS combination i was able to keep up or being a fraction faster then a guy with a F104W version who was using foam tires.
Last night i wasn't able te keep up with him
I sure need a lot more practice to find the right setup for those R1 tire combination cause i have lack of rear traction.
I must say that those tires were brand new and still need to have more tracktime on them to deliver the best performance.
Still look forward to sundays race against some FGX cars
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:43 AM   #7098
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somebody knows a good setup for an F104X1 with the Ride R1 tire combination?
Need a setup for carpet and asphalt
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:29 AM   #7099
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
somebody knows a good setup for an F104X1 with the Ride R1 tire combination?
Need a setup for carpet and asphalt
This is what I run on asphalt (it's a 104WGP... but with a std 104 front end).

Front:
Camber - 1.0
Toe - 2.0 out
1mm shim under inner ball joint
Inline steering hub
5mm Ride Height
Tamiya silver (Soft) spring, with AW greese on the kingpin

Rear:
3Racing 1.3mm Tbar, 1-2turns out of centre screw
5mm Ride height

Centre Shock:
Tamiya Red (Soft) centre spring, Losi 25Wt oil, 3 hole piston, two o-rings inside shock under piston.
Shock lower ball joint unscrewed two turns.
3mm shims under rear ball joint

Roll damper:
Optional RM01 Oil damper - 1500wt oil

Other;
Battery - Shorty 2s, all the way forwards (esc, receiver, PT behind pack)
Servo with spline upright, 6mm of shims on horn for correct bumpsteer
R-Sector Wide track (190mm) and LiPo top deck (all posts used)
Rear diff - 103 Thrust race, 3mm ceramic balls, diff set for a smidge of slip.
Bodyshell & wings - 3Racing 113 shell. Lexan Front wing, TRG Advance rear, and TRG diffuser.
Additive - Tweak, 15mins F&R full width
Motor - D3.5 21.5t, 88 Spur, 35t Pinion, Timing cranked max!
Esc - HW XtremeStock, '508 v3' Blinky, Punch Max, Brake Max, 5% Drag brake.

The car does handle differently to TCS tyres, and surprisingly, you may need to use the brakes to help it turn.
Main things I tweak from that setup are;

Roll Damper - thinner oil for faster turning, thicker for more stability
T-bar Centre Screw - 1/4 turns at a time, screw in for more steering, out for stability.
Front arm shims - More shims for more front bite, less to knock the edge off
Shock length - Longer for more highspeed steering, shorter for less

Overall, that works pretty well for my driving style.

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Old 02-22-2013, 04:02 PM   #7100
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Thx for sharing your setup, i will try some setup tips you have discribed.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #7101
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Thx for sharing your setup, i will try some setup tips you have discribed.
One thing I should mention as well. Less camber on the front gives more steering... let me explain.
In all the testing I've done, going to more camber on the front basically took away mid corner steering. With the hard front compound on the R1's (combined with a soft front spring), you need to keep as much of the tyre in contact with the road as possible. Using as little camber as possible helps, mainly in the centre of the turn. Using more camber basically caused the car to wash out in the middle.

Bare in mind as well, this is for the 104 fixed arms... would possibly be a little different with the Exotek style adjustables (which are on my list to get at some point!), where you can use the camber positions like to adjust camber gain like on a TC.

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Old 02-23-2013, 06:30 AM   #7102
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
One thing I should mention as well. Less camber on the front gives more steering... let me explain.
In all the testing I've done, going to more camber on the front basically took away mid corner steering. With the hard front compound on the R1's (combined with a soft front spring), you need to keep as much of the tyre in contact with the road as possible. Using as little camber as possible helps, mainly in the centre of the turn. Using more camber basically caused the car to wash out in the middle.

Bare in mind as well, this is for the 104 fixed arms... would possibly be a little different with the Exotek style adjustables (which are on my list to get at some point!), where you can use the camber positions like to adjust camber gain like on a TC.

HiH
Ed
Thx, i been trying several things to find a good setup and i did go by the end of the night 1second faster.
But i guess it has more to do with the rear tires had more drivetime on them.
I went from Zero spacers under inner ball stud (front) to 0,5mm spacer and from 1.5 camber to 1 and less tire additive and the car was more drivable then at the beginning but it didn't had enough steering.
So i will try some more toe out or add more tire additive or even do both.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:08 PM   #7103
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Default Los Angeles/SFV F-1 Test & Race Day

Winter Outdoor F-1 Track Test & Race
March 3, 2013
Classes: UF1 and Le Mans



We are all invited to test and race at Marvin's URC V Raceway (in the SFV!)
Great opportunity to start testing set-ups in a low grip, long - fast layout track

This first race is for Free!
For all of us so we get to know the venue.

Formula 1 and Le Mans
Sunday March 3

URC V Raceway
Metro Link Parking Lot
8775 Wilbur Ave. SF Valley CA 91324
Track set up 9:00 11:00
Practice 11:00
Racing 12:00 5:00 or Sunset
You will need your own power supply

To register please send me a PM with your name and transponder numbers.
So they can be race ready and not spend time loading our data on race day.




Cordially,
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:35 PM   #7104
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Today i had my first 17.5T blinky race and those Ride R1 tires are just crap.
On a low grip track they are really bad, no rear grip at all.
The track itself was the lowest grip track i have driven on, the surface beneath the carpet was ice cold and after 2 or 3 minutes everybody was loosing rear grip.
I've changed those (crap) tires for my TCS tires and the car was at least 1,5seconds faster per lap.
I was as fast as guys with a FGX but i think it would have been better to use the pit shimizu 575 rear tires (the ones i didn't have ) for more rear traction.
They are allready been ordered and hope to be able to test them soon.
There were 3 FGX cars and all 3 of them make a lot of noise, is that normal?
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:40 PM   #7105
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Yep. Fgx is noisy. The extra gears in the transmission make the noise.
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:27 PM   #7106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Today i had my first 17.5T blinky race and those Ride R1 tires are just crap.
On a low grip track they are really bad, no rear grip at all.
The track itself was the lowest grip track i have driven on, the surface beneath the carpet was ice cold and after 2 or 3 minutes everybody was loosing rear grip.
I've changed those (crap) tires for my TCS tires and the car was at least 1,5seconds faster per lap.
I was as fast as guys with a FGX but i think it would have been better to use the pit shimizu 575 rear tires (the ones i didn't have ) for more rear traction.
They are allready been ordered and hope to be able to test them soon.
For extreme cold weather try Shimizu 579 rear
With track temp sub 60f we found them to have more forward grip
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:01 PM   #7107
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For extreme cold weather try Shimizu 579 rear
With track temp sub 60f we found them to have more forward grip
As soon i got home i ordered the pit shimizu's 575,574 & 579
Very curious about how they would handle on a very low grip carpet track.

I will keep trying to find some how a relative good setup to use those Ride R1 tires, but to me the pit's are THE tires to have.
They transform the car in a very positive way and still have a good drivable car with lots of rear grip.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:40 PM   #7108
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
As soon i got home i ordered the pit shimizu's 575,574 & 579
Very curious about how they would handle on a very low grip carpet track.

I will keep trying to find some how a relative good setup to use those Ride R1 tires, but to me the pit's are THE tires to have.
They transform the car in a very positive way and still have a good drivable car with lots of rear grip.
We use the 574/572 combo at out low to med grip track in dallas. Yesterday was a bad day for traction it seemed. My TC fought for rear grip all day long, but my F1 running this combo was on the verge of traction rolling. I had a ton of rear grip, and the front pushed just a touch which I like. I might order some of those others as well to test them out. So when you et them and try them let us know what you think.
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:54 PM   #7109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
As soon i got home i ordered the pit shimizu's 575,574 & 579
Very curious about how they would handle on a very low grip carpet track.

I will keep trying to find some how a relative good setup to use those Ride R1 tires, but to me the pit's are THE tires to have.
They transform the car in a very positive way and still have a good drivable car with lots of rear grip.
Well you just learned the most important thing about RC F1, its all about the tires. Your Ride tires are not (crap) you just need to save them for the correct track.You could spend a lot of time setting up your chassis so your (crap) tires would work great,but most people just change tires.
How you treat your tires is also important if you are going the tires changing route instead of the set up changing route.
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Old 02-24-2013, 05:18 PM   #7110
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Well you just learned the most important thing about RC F1, its all about the tires. Your Ride tires are not (crap) you just need to save them for the correct track.You could spend a lot of time setting up your chassis so your (crap) tires would work great,but most people just change tires.
How you treat your tires is also important if you are going the tires changing route instead of the set up changing route.
Hahaha, exactly what my mate and I went through a few weeks back. Bought standard F104Pros. The tyres were crap so my mate started making all these chassis changes, ordering T plates, springs, cutting the top deck, etc. I'm telling him, "wait till we buy for the correct tyres"! We have the correct tyres now and it handles brilliantly
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