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Old 02-06-2013, 12:52 PM   #7006
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Ok I thought 16 gauge was only for 1 cell not 2 cell.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:13 PM   #7007
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Ok I thought 16 gauge was only for 1 cell not 2 cell.
Here's a photo that I posted earlier today. If you click on the picture, you'll see my TOP Rebel F1 with the 16 gauge wire 240Z is talking about. TQ Wire Products makes in my opinion the best silicone coated wire out there. You can buy it from TQ Racing (no not the same company).
They have a number of colors in stock. Using 16 guage wire eliminates any potential binding between the chassis and the motor pod plate and passes more than enough current to the 21.5 power plant you have in your car.
I use a 13 gauge wire from the battery to the ESC though also made by TQ Wire Products. They say that they have as many strands of wire in their 13 ga as most 12 qa wire, but it is much more flexible.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:40 PM   #7008
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Hi Ned... not sure if you are talking about my 1st photo of the TOP REBEL F1, pictured here, but if it is, the item next to the ESC is a Yeah Racing Capacitor Bank not a receiver pack. Since we are using a 2S shorty pack a receiver pack is not required. The capacitors are supposed to store energy and release it when the throttle is pulled for a bit more punch.
Got it! I forgot about the caps! I get plent of punch with out 'em! I'm lobbying for "F2" with 25.5's or maybe 1S!!!

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Old 02-06-2013, 06:14 PM   #7009
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What's the difference between the 571 and 574 tyres? The 571 is listed as "Soft, F3" while the 574 is listed as "Soft, F3-S".

Overall, I'm quite happy with the combo I'm running at the moment (571/572), but always open to improvement
Inserts are the main difference and percentage of silicone for carpet.

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Well the 571/572 combo works terribly on asphalt out here. Starts out with horrible oversteer when the tires are cold but when they heat up they go to a horrible push.
Funny how tires work different in different regions!! What you are feeling is exactly what soft front and hard rears will do. The fronts overheat and grip goes away while the rears warm up and gain traction. You can control this by front end alignment/Ackerman and springs. But this is the reason why i run 73 fronts because they work like the rears do and gain traction throughout the race , in a 10min main i usually get my best times around 6min into it and then drive away! This also allows me to run softer front springs and aggressive ackerman.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:22 PM   #7010
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That's why back in the F201 days we would run the same compound all around so they heat up the same front to back. I was actually pretty surprised to see soft fronts used so much on hot asphalt when people started running the F104s.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:58 PM   #7011
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That's why back in the F201 days we would run the same compound all around so they heat up the same front to back. I was actually pretty surprised to see soft fronts used so much on hot asphalt when people started running the F104s.
I agree, you can make them work but your steering has to be really aggressive so when it fades you can still drive. I like a car that gets better as the race goes on rather than fades away. I think the "SOFT" came about because for soooo long all we had was those horrible ride fronts which were like round ACME bricks but the SS rears were actually pretty good, too good really because the cars pushed so bad you had to drive with brakes and 15* of front toe out to turn ( i know you remember those days!!) When the PITS came out even a faded out soft was better than anything we had before but now we are starting to get good choices in tires, hence the picky-ness!! IMO the fronts still are not quite right. Maybe SWEEP has it figured out we will see!!
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:16 PM   #7012
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I'd rather deal with a bit of fade to have the consistency then the Jekel and Heid handling I get with the 571/572 tires. Right now I'm running the HPI soft fronts and medium rears and the car is much more consistent...but pushes like a brick the whole time.

Maybe...the Sweep TC tires tend to be a bit thin so they wear out fast on a TC, but grip is good. Maybe they will work better on the lighter F1 cars. Problem is they look like they are made for the rubber tire rims like the Ride, HPI, and 3Racing rims...that can cause some ride height issues with the F104 chassis.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:20 PM   #7013
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I'd rather deal with a bit of fade to have the consistency then the Jekel and Heid handling I get with the 571/572 tires. Right now I'm running the HPI soft fronts and medium rears and the car is much more consistent...but pushes like a brick the whole time.

Maybe...the Sweep TC tires tend to be a bit thin so they wear out fast on a TC, but grip is good. Maybe they will work better on the lighter F1 cars. Problem is they look like they are made for the rubber tire rims like the Ride, HPI, and 3Racing rims...that can cause some ride height issues with the F104 chassis.

That HPI combo is really good on concrete but you have to set the car up for brakes. I like the TCS F/R on concrete with light brakes.
It looks on the pic of the sweeps they are mounted on regular Tamiya non foam wheels, i could be wrong though. I wonder who was doing the Sweep testing for them?

Oh and BTW try using the PIT strip inserts on the HPI MED rear tires!
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:24 PM   #7014
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I do have to run a ton of brakes with the HPIs for sure...I think my drag brake is up to like 80% to get the car to turn right. Along with a mess of droop designed to get the car to turn as well.

Yeah...the rubber rims have a smaller ID on the inside making shimming the king pin for a low ride height at the front a problem. The F104 drivers ran into that at the IIC with the hand out tires.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:14 PM   #7015
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Got it! I forgot about the caps! I get plent of punch with out 'em! I'm lobbying for "F2" with 25.5's or maybe 1S!!!

Ned
..Ned......i could of swore that Mark Rodney told me he tried his F1 with a 1s....said it was a dog.........
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:43 PM   #7016
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Does anyone know of a good setup guide for f1?
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:02 PM   #7017
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Does anyone know of a good setup guide for f1?
Here is one.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:16 PM   #7018
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..Ned......i could of swore that Mark Rodney told me he tried his F1 with a 1s....said it was a dog.........
Matt, Maybe he left the 21.5 in it. If you go down in voltage you gotta go down in winds, and change gears. Have you watched the WGT cars? They are **EDIT 13.5**, 1S and go pretty well...

All I know is the 21.5/2S is over kill for me. Just like 4WD open versus Pan. Different strokes...you know!


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Old 02-07-2013, 12:31 AM   #7019
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Matt, Maybe he left the 21.5 in it. If you go down in voltage you gotta go down in winds, and change gears. Have you watched the WGT cars? They are 17.5, 1S and go pretty well...

All I know is the 21.5/2S is over kill for me. Just like 4WD open versus Pan. Different strokes...you know!

I thought wgt ran 13.5?
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:05 AM   #7020
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I thought wgt ran 13.5?
You are correct sir, 13.5 blinky. Fun to drive too!
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