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Old 11-08-2012, 04:14 AM   #6256
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I think Tamiya just shipped this kit with whatever they standardly ship all their F1's with in terms of gearing. It's just not the right combo. I'll see what my LHS has for spur options.
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:14 AM   #6257
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My Tamiya Wolf WR1 seems to be getting better, but I think I need to change the gearing. It's a standard silver can then a 14T pinion and a 63T spur. That's stock and per the manual.

The back tires on the Wolf are big and I think that may be causing it to be sluggish. They are much bigger than those weenie tires the other F1 guys are using (kidding!). They are 65mm tall/diameter. How does that compare to what the rest of you are using?
I used to run around 46-49 mm rollout on a silvercan. Go to gearchart.com and use the pancar setting to make a rollout chart.
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:27 AM   #6258
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I used to run around 46-49 mm rollout on a silvercan. Go to gearchart.com and use the pancar setting to make a rollout chart.
Good suggestion. I will do just that. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:48 PM   #6259
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How many of you balance the rear pod of your F1 car?

The reason I ask is last night I stumbled upon rccartips website (very helpful) and noticed a picture of two spikes balancing a F1 rear pod. I decided to take it upon myself to do the same with my f103 rear pod. Now, its not a standard read pod nor are the components being used. The rear pod is Yeah Racing one piece aluminum motor pod, the axle is a Kawada ball differential unit.

I came to discover that the pods (non-drive side) needed 28g's to balance the pod effectively. Yikes! That's a lot of weight IMO. However, it kills two birds with one stone by balancing the pod but also situating more weight to the rear axle.

Also, I decided to look at the front suspension springs and noticed one spring was larger than the other. I do remember someone on here posting about front springs tending to collapse or stretch resulting in a tweaked chassis. I assume during a crash the coils got damaged or very well it might of been defective.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:42 PM   #6260
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Springs collapse quite a bit. It's worth changing them if you even suspect they are bad.

As far as the balance, that's probably why the F104X1 had a counterweight on the axle. I used to always run 14g on the left corner of my pod on the 103 after a guy pointed out how off the pods were.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:52 AM   #6261
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Looks like there is a new body on the horizon.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58559
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:00 AM   #6262
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Boxy nose, but very cool!

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Old 11-13-2012, 11:52 AM   #6263
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I'm new to F1 racing. Can you guys point me towards a relatviely inexpensive body choice? I'm happy to paint it. Most 1/10 scale bodies are about $25 for touring cars. The F1's seem much more than that ($40-$60). I just want simple.

The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:11 PM   #6264
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
I'm new to F1 racing. Can you guys point me towards a relatviely inexpensive body choice? I'm happy to paint it. Most 1/10 scale bodies are about $25 for touring cars. The F1's seem much more than that ($40-$60). I just want simple.

The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
you can get the body's for less than $25 but if you want the plastic wings they are an added cost. Usually around $45 for body and wings together.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:13 PM   #6265
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Boxy nose, but very cool!

I like the look of this body but doesn’t that nose look fake? It looks too much like the real car to me but I could be wrong.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:13 PM   #6266
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you can get the body's for less than $25 but if you want the plastic wings they are an added cost. Usually around $45 for body and wings together.
Any good sources besides Tamiya and McAllister. I'd like to get the standard McClaren/Honda body that was so common, but I don't see those in stock anywhere.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:36 PM   #6267
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I like the look of this body but doesn’t that nose look fake? It looks too much like the real car to me but I could be wrong.
That is the real car
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:39 PM   #6268
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Ya, sorry, I should have stated that. That's the REAL Ferrari F2012!
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:53 PM   #6269
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Well I feel dumb..
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:00 PM   #6270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
I'm new to F1 racing. Can you guys point me towards a relatviely inexpensive body choice? I'm happy to paint it. Most 1/10 scale bodies are about $25 for touring cars. The F1's seem much more than that ($40-$60). I just want simple.

The new McAllister Indy body is about the least expensive I've seen: http://www.mcallisterracing.com/index_files/Page482.htm
Yeah, F1 bodies are more expensive, but they last a LONG time. In the same span of time i've used my F1 body, i've probably changed sedan bodies at least 3 times.

The body choices depend on which platform you're talking about. If you're looking at narrow chassis (F104), there are really only 3 major bodies people run (in order of popularity):
  • Tamiya F60
  • Tamiya McLaren
  • Tamiya F104 body

3Racing also released a new one not too long ago which is inexpensive (but you'll need to get wings separately): http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4437

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...08&s_maker_id=

The best sources for bodies in the US are TQ RC Racing and F1paintlab
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