1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
#5671
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
I tried a heat gun, but found that I actually had a little less control than a good ole Bic lighter held about 2" away. But yes, heat is key. Also, when you have long sections of curves, you can cut slits on the stickers where they will wrinkle anyway, and you can get them to lay flat. The heat will smooth out the rest.
#5672
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
I tried a heat gun, but found that I actually had a little less control than a good ole Bic lighter held about 2" away. But yes, heat is key. Also, when you have long sections of curves, you can cut slits on the stickers where they will wrinkle anyway, and you can get them to lay flat. The heat will smooth out the rest.
#5673
Good points, Thank You! Do You think that hair dryer can do the job?
And how about that groove where the 2 halves come together? This time I want to try CA gel, brush paper and spray paint...
And how about that groove where the 2 halves come together? This time I want to try CA gel, brush paper and spray paint...
#5674
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
The problem with any type of adhesive only is that you are only bonding to the paint under the main body, unless you mask it off as clear where the overlap occurs--and it really looks bad. Also, some plastic epoxy will eat right through paint. I was toying with the idea of getting small buttons used to assemble lexan wings and then pain over them with the same color-can always pull the screws out and replace it with those when I find the right parts.
#5675
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
for decals on long curves (side pontoons, 'vodafone' on top of LH's helmet) in addition to the heat gun and slits technique, it also helps to cut it into smaller sections/pieces (modified 'slit' technique). just make sure you put the next section exactly where the last one ends, so it won't have any noticeable gaps.
HTH
i didn't CA'd mine. i did however scraped the protruding edges after i put the two halves together.
Last edited by Minami; 08-22-2012 at 04:29 PM.
#5676
F1 RC Car Tires - HPI, Ride, Pit Shimizu, Tamiya, TRG Rubber Tyres
Just a comparison. Estimated sale price in USD.
More info here.
Just a comparison. Estimated sale price in USD.
More info here.
#5677
I do something a bit different to the other suggestions. I use spray on window glass cleaner. Spray it onto the helmet and apply the decal. The glass cleaner prevents it from sticking to the helmet and you can move it around until you're happy with the positioning and then gently apply pressure to the sticker with your thumb from the centre of the decal to the outside which removes the glass cleaner from under the sticker and hey presto Works great on all other body decals. Especially handy for those detailed Tamiya Mclaren ones which are thin and fit over the curves in the body.
#5678
Tech Elite
iTrader: (70)
I used to do a lot of model car bodies for slot car racing so have a lot of experience with this. Put a little CA between the two pieces before you stick them together. When you squeeze them together, the extra CA will ooze out around the seam. Now sand that down and there you go a smoothed seam!
#5679
#5683
Thank You for all those tips!
It looks like we use the same tactics...
BTW I'm sharing picture of my wide F104 car I'm building for our large outdoor track. I have recycled a few F104Pro parts, with wide front axle and Xceed F103 foams ...and there will be Ferrari 643 body - very simple car.
It looks like we use the same tactics...
BTW I'm sharing picture of my wide F104 car I'm building for our large outdoor track. I have recycled a few F104Pro parts, with wide front axle and Xceed F103 foams ...and there will be Ferrari 643 body - very simple car.
#5684
Helmets & cockpits
Some pics from my handmade works...
#5685
When you run the Xceed foams up front, what type of spacer do you use on the front axle being that the Xceed rim is slightly narrower than the Tamiya axle?