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Old 03-20-2012, 01:57 PM   #4531
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While we are on old school F1, I dug up an F1 car my brother built in about 97 from an associated RC10LS, and adapted a Tamiya F103 link front suspension to have adjustable camber/caster and still use standard pan car tyres, It did look really cool, and went well too.





Its sad i cant run it at my local track as foams just really dont work there, it did have a set of capped rubber tyres on it when i pulled it out from the box, but after 14 years they are dead.


Beth.
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Old 03-20-2012, 02:47 PM   #4532
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I actually ment their solution to the FIA ban on two different liveries: having two different halves on each car, but both cars being identical as per regs.
I thought they banned the "Split Personality" paint scheme as well. I could be wrong.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:34 AM   #4533
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You are right. Just like getting that last shot in at a basketball game, the race is all about who crosses the line first. The ROAR RMT did say in our driver's meeting that if you bump somebody else on the track, and get called on it, you will get a "Stop and Go" penalty. They even pointed out the corner of the carpet where you had to stop your car. However in this particular event, the RMT did not call Kody on either one of those bump incidents. The lead RM, Bob, talked to Kody and Tony individually immediately after the race. Then Bob reviewed the video frame-by-frame from the ginormous LiveRC.com camera to see exactly what went down. Afterwards Bob spoke to Tony and Kody together and explained his final decision. I took a pic of the 3 of them together.

Sounds like a real F1 race
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:45 AM   #4534
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I thought they banned the "Split Personality" paint scheme as well. I could be wrong.
Can't find anything about the split livery being banned.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:20 AM   #4535
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Here is a product review article about Tony Phalen's Tamiya F104X1. This is the car that Tony drove to win the F1 Championship at the ROAR Carpet Nationals last weekend.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:01 PM   #4536
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Can't find anything about the split livery being banned.
Maybe it was "strongly disliked"

It was just one season though, I think.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:58 PM   #4537
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... What's done is done.
RedBullFiXX is right. What's done is done. It's all in the record books now. All that's left now is the crying.
Here's the link to the Championship Results for the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:56 PM   #4538
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RedBullFiXX is right. What's done is done. It's all in the record books now. All that's left now is the crying.
Here's the link to the Championship Results for the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals
Hmmmmm, with F1 being an exhibition class there is no real "official" ROAR title at stake. Therefore, if/when the class does become a ROAR title class there can be rules or procedures in place for just such an occasion.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:16 PM   #4539
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2012 UF1 season starts this Saturday March 24th at the West Australian Coast Grand Prix...

for more info : http://uf1series.com/index.html
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:41 AM   #4540
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The Pro and X1 will cost more than an FGX and an aftermarket chassis and both Tamiya models are very hard to find at the moment. Tamiya shows both as discontinued and bringing a stock F104 to the level of either the X1 or Pro kit can get expensive. The FGX only needs a couple basic tuning items to keep in mind when building it to be a good performer, which really are about the same for the F104. You need the right tires, springs, sway bars and oils to tune it right for your surface. If you run on an open track without wood barriers to separate the lanes, the FGX will be fine. If you run on a track with hard unforgiving barriers, you may want the Tamiya for front end durability. Both can be made to perform on either hard or carpet surface with out much effort. It all depends on your budget.

Testimonial: I will say that after 125 laps with 3 different drivers, My FGX with a McKune chassis on carpet was still running laps at the same speed with no fall off. Once the tires gained heat/traction, they stayed consistent for over 20 minutes. Some would say that is a fluke, but then we took out its sister car and did the same thing to see if we could beat the previous lap times. Both cars, over 20 minutes, nearly identical lap times. And yes my eyes still hurt.
Not tot bash the FGX, but I think that it is slightly misleading to say the the FGX is the less expensive option. True the purchase price is less, and even with a conversion kit you are around the $200 mark. But from what I have read on here, you need to keep a good stock of spares on hand to race this car. For a driver that is running week in and week out and only brushes the board occaisionally, he or she will probably not need that many spares. For a newbie to come in and run the FGX, IMO they will go thru a lot of parts trying to get in tune with the car. Any of the 104 variants are going to withstand the abuse of someone learning to drive them with minimal parts replacement. I'm not saying they dont break, but to me they are a more robust design, and will be a little more forgiving than the FGX.
Just my $.02
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:11 AM   #4541
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Not tot bash the FGX, but I think that it is slightly misleading to say the the FGX is the less expensive option. True the purchase price is less, and even with a conversion kit you are around the $200 mark. But from what I have read on here, you need to keep a good stock of spares on hand to race this car. For a driver that is running week in and week out and only brushes the board occaisionally, he or she will probably not need that many spares. For a newbie to come in and run the FGX, IMO they will go thru a lot of parts trying to get in tune with the car. Any of the 104 variants are going to withstand the abuse of someone learning to drive them with minimal parts replacement. I'm not saying they dont break, but to me they are a more robust design, and will be a little more forgiving than the FGX.
Just my $.02
I can agree. The fgx is fragile out of the box. I can also say that after converting it into a formula rabbit it is now more durable than a f104. The only part I have broken since the conversion is a rear arm and a front arm (after removing the arm I don't know how many times Stupid ball studs.) I have witnessed a f104 break its t bar 3 times and a motor pod twice. I guess it doesn't really matter. They all break eventually.


I also agree that the fgx is not a beginners car. A f104 would be much better. For that matter a f103 would be the best.
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:13 AM   #4542
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I can agree. The fgx is fragile out of the box. I can also say that after converting it into a formula rabbit it is now more durable than a f104. The only part I have broken since the conversion is a rear arm and a front arm (after removing the arm I don't know how many times Stupid ball studs.) I have witnessed a f104 break its t bar 3 times and a motor pod twice. I guess it doesn't really matter. They all break eventually.


I also agree that the fgx is not a beginners car. A f104 would be much better. For that matter a f103 would be the best.
i have a new never run formula rabbit conversion i'm trying to sell, if any readers are interested.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:08 AM   #4543
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
I can agree. The fgx is fragile out of the box. I can also say that after converting it into a formula rabbit it is now more durable than a f104. The only part I have broken since the conversion is a rear arm and a front arm (after removing the arm I don't know how many times Stupid ball studs.) I have witnessed a f104 break its t bar 3 times and a motor pod twice. I guess it doesn't really matter. They all break eventually.


I also agree that the fgx is not a beginners car. A f104 would be much better. For that matter a f103 would be the best.
The pivot balls popping out is an issue, but I think that I actually have an answer as to why they pop out.
In my experience, when you go to the low friction balls, the problem starts. I think that the the flourine coating that they put on these parts makes them more susceptible to this problem. I never had the issue with the regular metal or plastic ones.
The 103 is a great training car, too bad the trend is the 180-190mm cars
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:17 AM   #4544
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The pivot balls popping out is an issue, but I think that I actually have an answer as to why they pop out.
In my experience, when you go to the low friction balls, the problem starts. I think that the the flourine coating that they put on these parts makes them more susceptible to this problem. I never had the issue with the regular metal or plastic ones.
The 103 is a great training car, too bad the trend is the 180-190mm cars
I never had a problem with the pivot balls. I finally broke the arm where it snaps around the inner ball stud on the camber plate. I don't know how many times I took the arm off and pressed it back on. No fault of the arm. I wore it out from tuning the car.

I'm actually keeping eye out for a cheap 103 for a gtp conversion. I think it would be fun to run 17.5 prototypes on the track.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:35 AM   #4545
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I never had a problem with the pivot balls. I finally broke the arm where it snaps around the inner ball stud on the camber plate. I don't know how many times I took the arm off and pressed it back on. No fault of the arm. I wore it out from tuning the car.

I'm actually keeping eye out for a cheap 103 for a gtp conversion. I think it would be fun to run 17.5 prototypes on the track.
A bud of mine is selling this.
Don't know if it will work for you ?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10447875-post208.html
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