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Old 03-02-2012, 01:04 PM   #4246
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As always it depends on length and layout of the track.

regards Roy
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:08 PM   #4247
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As always it depends on length and layout of the track.

regards Roy
Ya I am gust looking for a starting point.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:17 PM   #4248
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Can someone tell me which rattle can (brand and paint code) for the Ferrari Red? I assume you are backing it with white.
If you are talking about the Ferrari F60, then Tamiya PS-60, Bright Mica Red, is the paint you want. Tamiya made this shade of red specifically to match the Ferrari F60 paint color.
Click here for more info about this spray paint.
Has anybody tried this color spray paint on their F1 body? I hear that it is very translucent.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #4249
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Here you go.
Without backing color.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-pro-f104w.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-f103-f104.jpg

regards Roy


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Has anybody tried this color spray paint on their F1 body? I hear that it is very translucent.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:04 PM   #4250
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On closer inspection it may NOT be possible to use this chasiss after all with the P34
P34 makes use of 2 of the extra 4 holes in the Tamiya chassis to hold the steering plate in place, and the steering plate sits over where the Unicrank sits on the Ultra
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #4251
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Just converting to brushless 21.5 and rubber tire on my 104 what is a good starting point for gearing.
Thanks
on our short stumpy track i am using 78/24 and my 21.5 gets finger touch warm

http://youtu.be/PQKWxSyphcE
http://youtu.be/ZDoGn6u3zuw
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:50 PM   #4252
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A short video of my F-ONE going round the Stafford track might make you DIZZY http://youtu.be/2P_g8piJvKw
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:02 AM   #4253
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A short video of my F-ONE going round the Stafford track might make you DIZZY http://youtu.be/2P_g8piJvKw
wow you 're right that made me dizzy!
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:50 PM   #4254
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A short video of my F-ONE going round the Stafford track might make you DIZZY http://youtu.be/2P_g8piJvKw
It would make you less dizzy if some of the car is in the video, like this one reproducing the onboard camera shot.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4n4aeswWGk
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:18 PM   #4255
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I know Mantis has played around with a functional diffuser has anyone else?

When I first built my Exotek F 104 I added a diffuser and enclosed the hole below the motor. I have just always ran the car that way and never did anything to see if it made a difference. Today I finally gave it a proper test.

I was running on a outdoor basketball court with a painted textured surface. I have been running the same layout for three days now. The track has developed a very clean line and was giving consistent laps. With this happening I decided to put the diffuser to the test with the clock.

I was actually expecting no difference with or without. Yet the times show there is a difference. It is not a big difference but a difference. In fastest lap times there was a .05-.1 second difference on a 15 second lap. I did notice a difference in the feel of the car. In tight 180 corners I had to be much smoother on the throttle or the rear tires broke loose and kick out easier without the diffuser. The car also tracked straighter down the main straight. The biggest difference I noticed is the rear tires stayed more consistent during a 5 minute race with a diffuser. Without the diffuser towards the end of a 5 minute run the tires started to drop off in performance.

Here are some pics of my setup from when I first did it. I used styrene to close off the underside of the car. After a lots of time on the car the side pieces do not fit as tightly against the chassis any more.


How everything looks now.




It would be interesting to see how a full diffuser would work on a car like the FGX where you could easily seal off the entire bottom since you do not have a rear pod suspension to worry about.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:23 PM   #4256
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i do like the look of that underside and i do believe in undercar areodynamics playing a factor on these buuuut wouldn sealing the motorpod like that affect running temperature? i know my fgx needs all the airflow it can get
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:49 AM   #4257
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I have never had an issue with heat. Even running indoors on high bite carpet my motor temps stayed on the cool side. I do have the scoop on the body over the drivers head cut open and sealed the inside of the body making a tunnel the blows all the air the scoop grabs directly on the motor. Along with the openings in the side pods open getting cool air over the electronics is not a problem.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:57 AM   #4258
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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow View Post
i do like the look of that underside and i do believe in undercar areodynamics playing a factor on these buuuut wouldn sealing the motorpod like that affect running temperature? i know my fgx needs all the airflow it can get
+1. My fgx rabbit conversion definitely needs all the air it can get. I opened the top and the side vents of the body and it helped but it still gets warm. Around 160 degrees.

A neat little fgx tip. If you use a shorty lipo and shift it all the way forward you can squeeze an esc low profile cooling fan right in front of the motor. I will know how well it works tonight.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:33 PM   #4259
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Originally Posted by CR0SS View Post
I know Matis has played around with a functional diffuser has anyone else?

When I first built my Exotek F 104 I added a diffuser and enclosed the hole below the motor. I have just always ran the car that way and never did anything to see if it made a difference. Today I finally gave it a proper test.

I was running on a outdoor basketball court with a painted textured surface. I have been running the same layout for three days now. The track has developed a very clean line and was giving consistent laps. With this happening I decided to put the diffuser to the test with the clock.

I was actually expecting no difference with or without. Yet the times show there is a difference. It is not a big difference but a difference. In fastest lap times there was a .05-.1 second difference on a 15 second lap. I did notice a difference in the feel of the car. In tight 180 corners I had to be much smoother on the throttle or the rear tires broke loose and kick out easier without the diffuser. The car also tracked straighter down the main straight. The biggest difference I noticed is the rear tires stayed more consistent during a 5 minute race with a diffuser. Without the diffuser towards the end of a 5 minute run the tires started to drop off in performance.

Here are some pics of my setup from when I first did it. I used styrene to close off the underside of the car. After a lots of time on the car the side pieces do not fit as tightly against the chassis any more.


How everything looks now.




It would be interesting to see how a full diffuser would work on a car like the FGX where you could easily seal off the entire bottom since you do not have a rear pod suspension to worry about.
Ive done some small work with underbody mods on my f104w. Pics are somewhere in this thread, click my name and scroll through my posts to find them. I didnt seal the entire car like you did but did seal the rear pod with skirts and a front diffuser in the front wing. The front diffuser proved how good the idea was as the car was being much too loose in corners to the point i couldnt go flat out. I removed it and with noother changes the car wouldnt turn at all. I then put it back on and again too much oversteer. Went home and added the rear skirts and the car was understeery again but not to the same as before. Tightened the center screw and i could take that turn flat out all night long

As someone said heat started to be an issue. Solved by opening the engine intake at the top
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Old 03-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #4260
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Originally Posted by kb525 View Post
Ive done some small work with underbody mods on my f104w. Pics are somewhere in this thread, click my name and scroll through my posts to find them. I didnt seal the entire car like you did but did seal the rear pod with skirts and a front diffuser in the front wing. The front diffuser proved how good the idea was as the car was being much too loose in corners to the point i couldnt go flat out. I removed it and with noother changes the car wouldnt turn at all. I then put it back on and again too much oversteer. Went home and added the rear skirts and the car was understeery again but not to the same as before. Tightened the center screw and i could take that turn flat out all night long

As someone said heat started to be an issue. Solved by opening the engine intake at the top
years ago I was reading aero information for oval cars on velodrome tracks. A website had built their own windtunnel and was able to test bodies for front and rear downforce and drag. They tried sealing the body off, keeping the rear bumper in, and other tricks. They found that keeping it sealed up not only improved drag, but downforce as well. Smoothing the flow created a low air pressure area under the car and helped it stay on track. The did decide to continue to cut out the rear bumper, because it helped maintain stability on the large tracks. This was all backed up with laptimes as well.
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