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Old 02-29-2012, 11:10 AM   #4231
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You have to shorten the body and redrill bodypost holes as the F104 has a longer wheelbase then a F103.

regards Roy


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Originally Posted by BUCKSHOTRC View Post
WILL A F104 MCLAREN OR F60 BODY FIT ON MY 103 ?
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:22 PM   #4232
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Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
Ok so narrowing the front is a bad idea... copy that...

I am not sure how much stiffer I can get the front - I already have Associated .024 springs in the front and Tamiya Anti-Wear on the kingpins.
You shouldn't need to be that stiff. .020 or .022 at the most and 10K on the kingpins should work most anywhere.

I've not tried traction sauce yet as I've never really liked using it so I need to buy some to try it.
You need traction compound.

I should've said "tried most" as I realised today there is a Shimizu combo I haven't got my hands on yet.
You need traction compound.
I've first tried the kit foams and a couple of variations that were reported to work for people, but because rubber is more popular here I've now switched to rubber and I've tried the Ride B front and A rear combo... There is the Shizimu combo that I am hoping to get but to be honest unless they are something spectacular I am not expecting a massive improvement from them as the current balance between the front and rear is just too far off.
You need traction compound.
Everyone else is using F104's (and Tamiya tyres I believe) though I think there is one guy showing up soon with an F103... no one else is using an F109 at the moment.

I am starting to suspect I may just have things wrong at a fundamental level... my last F1 was an F103 but of course that was a t-bar car and now I am using a link car... I've gone through the majority of the F109 thread and I thought I had my act together but maybe not
Definitely check the side links and center pivot. Take the entire rear pod off the bottom plate and remove the side springs also so you can feel any binding when you move the pod plate side to side. Also, don't put any preload on the side springs. Set them so they just touch the links or even 1mm above.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:23 PM   #4233
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Originally Posted by Rick Vessell View Post
Definitely check the side links and center pivot. Take the entire rear pod off the bottom plate and remove the side springs also so you can feel any binding when you move the pod plate side to side. Also, don't put any preload on the side springs. Set them so they just touch the links or even 1mm above.
This is sage advice. 3Racing do not tell you to set the side links on the car, but this is an absolute must or the car WILL be bound up.

Check this out:

http://rcf1blog.blogspot.com/2010/12...your-f109.html
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:06 PM   #4234
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Can someone tell me which rattle can (brand and paint code) for the Ferrari Red? I assume you are backing it with white.
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Old 03-01-2012, 02:09 PM   #4235
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Can someone tell me which rattle can (brand and paint code) for the Ferrari Red? I assume you are backing it with white.
If you are talking about the Ferrari F60, then Tamiya PS-60, Bright Mica Red, is the paint you want. Tamiya made this shade of red specifically to match the Ferrari F60 paint color.
Click here for more info about this spray paint.
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:21 PM   #4236
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Exotek F1 Ultra
Now THAT is the chassis I was hoping for to fit my Tyrrell P34.
It has the correct wheelbase (unlike the F104 based chassis).

Suppose I'll have to wait a year before we get it here in the UK ?
So i'll just have to stay with original Tamiya chassis
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:43 PM   #4237
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Exotek F1 Ultra
Now THAT is the chassis I was hoping for to fit my Tyrrell P34.
It has the correct wheelbase (unlike the F104 based chassis).

Suppose I'll have to wait a year before we get it here in the UK ?
So i'll just have to stay with original Tamiya chassis
Order direct?
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:03 AM   #4238
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Order direct?
Tried that before, and was told that I had to use the UK dealer, hence still running a Tamiya chassis.
Still got the emails.
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:21 AM   #4239
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Quote:
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Tried that before, and was told that I had to use the UK dealer, hence still running a Tamiya chassis.
Still got the emails.
well that sucks
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:26 AM   #4240
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Tried that before, and was told that I had to use the UK dealer, hence still running a Tamiya chassis.
Still got the emails.
I see options to put in info for international shipping.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:47 AM   #4241
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
I see options to put in info for international shipping.
yes, but doesnt allow an UK address, only tells you to modify order.
Exotek says UK distributer has exclusive market.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:37 AM   #4242
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Wait for Stormer hobbies to bring it in stock.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:42 AM   #4243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
yes, but doesnt allow an UK address, only tells you to modify order.
Exotek says UK distributer has exclusive market.
F1paintlab ships international...
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:17 PM   #4244
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https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=EXO1183
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:52 PM   #4245
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Default gearing

Just converting to brushless 21.5 and rubber tire on my 104 what is a good starting point for gearing.
Thanks
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