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Old 02-12-2012, 01:33 AM   #3931
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Last night at Timezone. All cars are FGX's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oh9N...ature=youtu.be
Had a look at your video. Very cool , especially the last part when the camera turned to rear!!
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:49 AM   #3932
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newb question .... which tamiya foam tires work best on carpet ?

thanks .
Shane, it's all rubber tires around here though. No foam allowed. If you want foam, get a 1/12 scale... and a purse.
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:42 AM   #3933
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Bad days approached as the Corally appeared, walked over everything, and drivers walked away.
Death of a class for many moons until a few got together last year, made a few rules (based around F103/F109), and OUTLAWED the Corally.
It might have been the track (8th scale outdoor), but there never was an issue for us running the Corally and F103 together. At club level the F103 was competitive, and at our nationals (with included some small indoor tracks) the Corally was very common, but one the main contenders for the title drove a F103.

The class did decline, along with the other pancars. Good tyres compounds became hard to get; people moved to TC, and so on. This year however a couple of veterans at our track came together and we decided to all go F1 again this season. Should be a mixed field with Corallies, F103s, F109s, some homebrew. Not sure if there will be F104s, as people seem to be avoiding those. We'll be running foams, always have.

The amount of dislike for the Corally here is.. impressive :P

Last edited by ijdod; 02-13-2012 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:11 AM   #3934
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I need some advice. I can buy a used Tamiya F103RM in great condition, the only problem for me is that it is all plastic. I would drive the car occasionaly on the track because there is no F1 class in here. What aluminium parts (if any) are necessary for this car to perform?
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:16 AM   #3935
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I need some advice. I can buy a used Tamiya F103RM in great condition, the only problem for me is that it is all plastic. I would drive the car occasionaly on the track because there is no F1 class in here. What aluminium parts (if any) are necessary for this car to perform?
It doesn't need any alloy parts, the plastic parts work just fine. The only part that is really recommended to be replaced is the motor mount if you are racing. The plastic mount needs the metal mounting plate in the kit to clamp the motor in place, and if the motor gets hot it can soften the plastic motor mount and cause the motor to move, which usually means a damaged spur gear as well and it's difficult to get the gear mesh right again. Of course if you aren't racing it and the motor isn't getting hot, then the plastic mount will be fine.

If you want to upgrade it you can buy a nice motor mount side alloy plate from Tamiya, 3Racing or Yeah Racing, but it is not much more to buy a complete alloy pod from 3Racing, Yeah Racing
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:21 AM   #3936
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It doesn't need any alloy parts, the plastic parts work just fine. The only part that is really recommended to be replaced is the motor mount if you are racing. The plastic mount needs the metal mounting plate in the kit to clamp the motor in place, and if the motor gets hot it can soften the plastic motor mount and cause the motor to move, which usually means a damaged spur gear as well and it's difficult to get the gear mesh right again. Of course if you aren't racing it and the motor isn't getting hot, then the plastic mount will be fine.

If you want to upgrade it you can buy a nice motor mount side alloy plate from Tamiya, 3Racing or Yeah Racing, but it is not much more to buy a complete alloy pod from 3Racing, Yeah Racing
Hmm, I though it would be something like that. I have an Ezrun 13T motor which doesn't produce any heat at all. However I wanted to run this car with brushed electronics I have left (start with Sports Tuned, then change to Orion 16x3... Vantage David Spashett edition 12T would probably be too much ) and these motors do generate quite a lot of heat. I guess I'll just order a aluminium rear pod. BTW stupid questions, can TC shocks be used?
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Last edited by UrabusDenis; 02-13-2012 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:35 AM   #3937
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Hey all you F1 racers, have you signed up to race your F1 at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals coming on March 16? Hurry up and register before there is no more room! Click here to get signed up.

Click
HERE to see a countdown to the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:53 AM   #3938
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Hey all you F1 racers, have you signed up to race your F1 at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals coming on March 16? Hurry up and register before there is no more room! Click here to get signed up.

Click
HERE to see a countdown to the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals
are they putting an entry limit to the class for the nats? i haven't seen that posted anywhere yet. if so what is the entry limit?
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:15 AM   #3939
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are they putting an entry limit to the class for the nats? i haven't seen that posted anywhere yet. if so what is the entry limit?
ROAR does not have an entry limit for the nats. However pit spaces are limited.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:35 AM   #3940
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It might have been the track (8th scale outdoor), but there never was an issue for us running the Corally and F103 together. At club level the F103 was competitive, and at our nationals (with included some small indoor tracks) the Corally was very common, but one the main contenders for the title drove a F103.

The class did decline, along with the other pancars. Good tyres compounds became hard to get; people moved to TC, and so on. This year however a couple of veterans at our track came together and we decided to all go F1 again this season. Should be a mixed field with Corallies, F103s, F109s, some homebrew. Not sure if there will be F104s, as people seem to be avoiding those. We'll be running foams, always have.

The amount of dislike for the Corally here is.. impressive :P
I suspect the dominance of the Corally was more due to a better range of tyres available (pro 10).

Our latest championship was a mix of F109 - winner, F103 - 2nd, F109 3rd, the 2 Corallys were 14th and 15th. Of course driver ability also comes into play.

Peter
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:12 PM   #3941
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Originally Posted by ijdod View Post
It might have been the track (8th scale outdoor), but there never was an issue for us running the Corally and F103 together. At club level the F103 was competitive, and at our nationals (with included some small indoor tracks) the Corally was very common, but one the main contenders for the title drove a F103.

The class did decline, along with the other pancars. Good tyres compounds became hard to get; people moved to TC, and so on. This year however a couple of veterans at our track came together and we decided to all go F1 again this season. Should be a mixed field with Corallies, F103s, F109s, some homebrew. Not sure if there will be F104s, as people seem to be avoiding those. We'll be running foams, always have.

The amount of dislike for the Corally here is.. impressive :P
All cars ran 27T Stock motors, the pink 36 ones before the rebuildable versions.

One track was a flowing 1/10th Nitro track with 150ft main straight, where Tamiya's were faster but was no match for Corally's through the bends.

Another was a tight twisty 1/10 EP Touring track, where Tamiya cars were being lapped by Corally's (I borrowed one for a race and went 2 laps faster than my best with a F103)

Third was an indoor track, where non corally cars were mobile chicanes.


Only time Corally cars had a match was when placed against Pro10 cars (235mm pan cars)
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:00 PM   #3942
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I do know about the era when Dez (may he RIP) was cleaning up in F1, both before and after the advent of the dreaded Corally.

We run 200mm, silver cans, no tyre additive, foam tyres, outdoor 1/10th electric tracks, which tend to be on the technical (twisty) side, traction is low, so speeds are not great.

The (re)growth in the class here has been fueled largely due to the cheap entry costs of the F109.

The same tyre compounds are available in Tamiya/3 Racing sizes. The rears are only slightly narrower than pro 10 wheels. That leaves the only real difference being pro ten wheels bigger diameter/thinner tyre compared with the smaller diameter Tamiya wheels, tyre diameters seem to be similar - within the wear range. Maybe the larger rolling resistance of the Corally size wheels coupled with the low power available, levels the playing field. My lap times with my F104W are within driver error of my Corally lap times ie. sometimes faster, sometimes slower.

Anyway F1 is still my second favourite class, after bikes (bikes being the only thing I miss about UK and Aldershot). I also feel my nice replica paint/shells/Corally look more scale than abstract/one can painted cars. but that is another can of worms for another day.

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Old 02-13-2012, 05:29 PM   #3943
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Hmm, I though it would be something like that. I have an Ezrun 13T motor which doesn't produce any heat at all. However I wanted to run this car with brushed electronics I have left (start with Sports Tuned, then change to Orion 16x3... Vantage David Spashett edition 12T would probably be too much ) and these motors do generate quite a lot of heat. I guess I'll just order a aluminium rear pod. BTW stupid questions, can TC shocks be used?
Yes, a TC shock can be used instead of the plastic one, use a fairly light spring on it, I run a Tamiya Red 13lb spring on mine.

I ran an Ezrun 13T in mine, softened the motor mount and damaged the spur gear after the motor had moved, now run a 27T brushed motor in it. The Sport Tuned will be fine, for the 16T you will need a big track to run it.
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:39 PM   #3944
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Originally Posted by Pedro 51 View Post

The same tyre compounds are available in Tamiya/3 Racing sizes. The rears are only slightly narrower than pro 10 wheels. That leaves the only real difference being pro ten wheels bigger diameter/thinner tyre compared with the smaller diameter Tamiya wheels, tyre diameters seem to be similar - within the wear range. Maybe the larger rolling resistance of the Corally size wheels coupled with the low power available, levels the playing field. My lap times with my F104W are within driver error of my Corally lap times ie. sometimes faster, sometimes slower.


Cheers
Peter
Get some Tamiya Indy car wheels and mount with 1/10 donuts. Proceed to go .2-.3 a lap faster changing nothing else. A lot of the Corally's advantage is in the wheel diameter.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:08 PM   #3945
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Gidday Peter,

Youll have to come down to Christchurch for a visit sometime, check out how many F1's we got on Sunday http://www.crccc.co.nz/Results/On_Ro...et_Report.html

Kevin Ferwer usually races a Corally but didn't this meeting as he didn't have a spare spur gear (does the corally need a corally spur or can it use any brand like kimbrough, kawada etc?).

regards
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