AE RC12L Resto from '88 Worlds -- Please Help
10-18-2008, 11:24 AM
#16
10-18-2008, 03:06 PM
#17
Tech Adept
I raced that car in those days.
I had better equipment then that and I was 15 years old.
That is not a worlds level car, Sorry
I had better equipment then that and I was 15 years old.
That is not a worlds level car, Sorry
10-18-2008, 03:22 PM
#18
I never said he was in the A Main or anything, just that he was there, competed, and AE gave him this car. That's not even remotely the point of this thread anyway.
A 12L did indeed win that year though, tall tires and all.
10-18-2008, 03:39 PM
#19
WoW! what a blast from the past!
I would leave it as it is to and put it on the shelf. But with that said i also understand why your buddy wants to run it again.
The first time i ran electric off road again i used my Tamiya Egress i had put away 15 years ago. It was a blast and it wasen't to soon after that i purchased a new 4wd buggy.
I wish i could help you more but i know nothing about 1/12 scale.
Be sure to keep us updated and let us know how it goes on the first run and how long it taked before Miles buys a newer car to race with.
I would leave it as it is to and put it on the shelf. But with that said i also understand why your buddy wants to run it again.
The first time i ran electric off road again i used my Tamiya Egress i had put away 15 years ago. It was a blast and it wasen't to soon after that i purchased a new 4wd buggy.
I wish i could help you more but i know nothing about 1/12 scale.
Be sure to keep us updated and let us know how it goes on the first run and how long it taked before Miles buys a newer car to race with.
10-18-2008, 07:39 PM
#20
ran 12th mod at the whip in the mid 80's we trued tires down in 86,87,88 and we weren't running a worlds race..i believe he ran at the worlds just not very well.
you will dump money into that tub..run for two weeks with it..than want something new...
make sure whatever you buy will fit into "todays" chassis so when you upgrade to a better car it will all fit into it.
that was good advice huh?
what your wanting to do is take a winston cup car that won the 500 in 1986 and wanting to race with them now in 2008....
you will dump money into that tub..run for two weeks with it..than want something new...
make sure whatever you buy will fit into "todays" chassis so when you upgrade to a better car it will all fit into it.
that was good advice huh?
what your wanting to do is take a winston cup car that won the 500 in 1986 and wanting to race with them now in 2008....
10-18-2008, 08:47 PM
#21
What exactly offends you about wanting to get an old car running again just to have some fun with it at a couple club races???
Sorry if we're having some fun and aren't hard core enough for you.
10-18-2008, 09:34 PM
#23
+1! you and your friend take it out and have fun with it, these cars are'nt supossed to be shelf queens
. And if you or your bud have another of those shells lmk I'd love to have one for my 12L; which I still use on occasion and its still a blast.
10-19-2008, 11:46 AM
#25
the servo that is in there will work - if it had the "right" plugs
for the record - about 3 years ago I pulled out my original 12L (with stormer hobbies graphite chassis and pen spring rear suspension), and it worked well...It was able to hang with current cars
I ran back then, and ran similar equipment to what he had in there - not that I was EVER worlds quality driver...but if he was able to go to the worlds, than he should be able to wheel that car fairly well
Don't let the numbnuts talk you out of it, ok well you buddy out of it
10-19-2008, 01:19 PM
#26
if he did run at the worlds, what in the world was he using a standard servo like a s148 in it? that itself doesnt sound right in the first place b/c its a futaba G connector. the 38 was the last servo in that line to use a G as they had already began to phase it out when this car was running.
wire & clamp steering rods? swore techacraft or somebody had links back then. either way, de-rust those links and stick them back til u can find some vintage links.
R
wire & clamp steering rods? swore techacraft or somebody had links back then. either way, de-rust those links and stick them back til u can find some vintage links.
R
I found this Novak NES-1A servo and these links that were more likely the ones raced on the car. The servo is trashed.
10-27-2008, 04:04 PM
#27
I got the 12L together and we had a great time with it yesterday! I de-soldered the crappy wire from the Tazer and replaced it with some nice 14-ga silicone wire. Probably unnecessarily heavy gauge, but it's what I had on hand. Ended up using a ultra-basic S3003 servo I had in a basher buggy, and the rx/tx from my Slash.
Just for this time out I cleaned up and repaired the TOJ body since I couldn't come up with anything else in time.
The biggie was the tires. I didn't pull the trigger on anything there either so we ran the 1988 ones. He had a set of fronts that weren't cracked up like the ones in the pics.
The car ran pretty well in the first of three heats, but, predictably, suffered from an extreme lack of grip and had no rear downforce. We started soaking the tires in Paragon, and I added a large rear spoiler. In the second heat he was able to stay on the pace (Sportsman 1/12) for about 5 laps until the sauce wore off and the handling went completely away.
We started with the batteries in the forward location, and moving them to the rearward position helped a lot.
An old-school solution was the trick for the old-school car. Coppertone, baby. It worked way better on those old tires much longer into the third heat, and he ended up finishing 3rd in the main, albeit about 6 laps down to the dominating winner.
When the tires were good, the car handled surprisingly well, so new tires are the next step. Rather than build a new rear axle yet, I think I'll get a set of the 2-hole compatible premounts from T.M., pink all around (thanks Mason and Chris Moore):
http://tm-rc-racingcomponents.com/ma...FrameSet11.htm
Just for this time out I cleaned up and repaired the TOJ body since I couldn't come up with anything else in time.
The biggie was the tires. I didn't pull the trigger on anything there either so we ran the 1988 ones. He had a set of fronts that weren't cracked up like the ones in the pics.
The car ran pretty well in the first of three heats, but, predictably, suffered from an extreme lack of grip and had no rear downforce. We started soaking the tires in Paragon, and I added a large rear spoiler. In the second heat he was able to stay on the pace (Sportsman 1/12) for about 5 laps until the sauce wore off and the handling went completely away.
We started with the batteries in the forward location, and moving them to the rearward position helped a lot.
An old-school solution was the trick for the old-school car. Coppertone, baby. It worked way better on those old tires much longer into the third heat, and he ended up finishing 3rd in the main, albeit about 6 laps down to the dominating winner.
When the tires were good, the car handled surprisingly well, so new tires are the next step. Rather than build a new rear axle yet, I think I'll get a set of the 2-hole compatible premounts from T.M., pink all around (thanks Mason and Chris Moore):
http://tm-rc-racingcomponents.com/ma...FrameSet11.htm
10-27-2008, 04:10 PM
#28
ATTENTION OLD GUYS (like me)
In light of the current "The Future of 1/12 Scale" thread I was tempted to call this one "The Past of 1/12 Scale"
I recently roped my buddy Miles back into R/C racing after a 20-year hiatus by loaning him one of my VTA cars which he promptly cleaned my clock with his first time out. He went home and dug out the RC12L he raced at the worlds in the Netherlands in '88 and hasn't touched since. We want to resurrect this thing on the cheap for some fun club racing (19T 4-cell) and I need a little help, mostly with wheels and tires.
DISCLAIMER: I don't race 1/12 scale (yet) so I don't even know the basics. For all I know RC12R5 wheels and tires will bolt right on to this thing.
The front wheels are on with E-clips. The rears are 2-hole.
Here's the plan:
1) disassemble and clean everything
2) rebuild diff
3) add Orion Method R SV2 19X2 I have laying around
4) add cheapo Dynamite Tazer 15T ESC I have laying around
5) add rx/tx I took out of my Slash
6) take apart some EP4600 6-cell packs I have laying around to make 4-cell saddle packs
7) solder new plug onto the steering servo
My main questions:
1) Will this ancient Futaba FP-S148 servo work just with a simple plug change?
2) What do I do about wheels and tires?
3) What's the best body to run that will fit?
Many thanks!
In light of the current "The Future of 1/12 Scale" thread I was tempted to call this one "The Past of 1/12 Scale"
I recently roped my buddy Miles back into R/C racing after a 20-year hiatus by loaning him one of my VTA cars which he promptly cleaned my clock with his first time out. He went home and dug out the RC12L he raced at the worlds in the Netherlands in '88 and hasn't touched since. We want to resurrect this thing on the cheap for some fun club racing (19T 4-cell) and I need a little help, mostly with wheels and tires.
DISCLAIMER: I don't race 1/12 scale (yet) so I don't even know the basics. For all I know RC12R5 wheels and tires will bolt right on to this thing.
The front wheels are on with E-clips. The rears are 2-hole.
Here's the plan:
1) disassemble and clean everything
2) rebuild diff
3) add Orion Method R SV2 19X2 I have laying around
4) add cheapo Dynamite Tazer 15T ESC I have laying around
5) add rx/tx I took out of my Slash
6) take apart some EP4600 6-cell packs I have laying around to make 4-cell saddle packs
7) solder new plug onto the steering servo
My main questions:
1) Will this ancient Futaba FP-S148 servo work just with a simple plug change?
2) What do I do about wheels and tires?
3) What's the best body to run that will fit?
Many thanks!
10-27-2008, 04:19 PM
#30
YOU ARE AN IDIOT AND DONT KNOW $HIT! YOU OBVIOUSLY HATE LIFE AND COMENTS LIKE THIS IS THE ONLY THING YOU HAVE TO FEEL GOOD ABOUT YOURSELF! GO THE EFF AWAY BARNEY!
Nice ride Reenmachine! Cherish it!