gijoe64

iTrader: (30)

Boy your wrong about T-bar cars

CRC new T-Bar Gen-X
Asscoiated New T-bar conversion
X-ray new T-bar car at the worlds
Hotbodies T-bar car

Check the market! Most top drivers will tell you at a national level T-bar is the way to go. I run both T-bar and link, If you think manufactures are going to completly change a design that has worked for years think again. To much time and money has been spent on this simple design and if you take one type of car away, you take half the racers with it.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

OK, I'll stop now, as this is seriously detracting from the thread. You're missing the entire point of the thread, what's being discussed, and the reasoning about it. Either go back and read the whole thing or tune out.

Tubaboy

iTrader: (9)

Right now there isn't a T-Bar compatible cell, but that doesn't mean it won't happen. One could simply put 2 2000mah lipos in parallel in a saddle pack to create a viable 3.7V Lipo. Even better, 2000mah cells are cheaper than 4000s!

As tech improves, it may even be possible to reduce the battery to only cover one half of the car, thus freeing up the other half for better balancing. Things like mounting the ESC & receiver pack (if that's necessary) on one side, closer to the rear.

I have seen a few images of cars on here that took a TrakPower Saddle pack, and only used 1 half for their 3.7 experiment. That battery fit pretty well on one side of a t-bar car.

Like others, I can't say that I'm sorry if battery matchers go out of business. On one hand, for most, this was something that they did as a side business, and those that still do, have found that demand has already crashed due to lipo use in 6 cell classes. For instance, SMC matches batteries on a weekly basis at most now. Before he used to match on a daily basis and couldn't keep up with demand. Unfortunately, those same matchers did themselves in by selling a crappy product for several months in which batteries arrived as dead cells, and didn't last more than a couple of races before blowing up.

TVMRocket69

iTrader: (9)

Who doesn't want to race with me. and why? Is it because I try to help people or because I like mod? Or are U thinkin of someone else? And From what your saying about national a-mains 6-7 racers that made it can't drive. So if wat your saying is true anyone can make the a if they hang on.

I'm done with thread. Roar is gonna do what they want. I hope they do 1cell spec but It's their decission not mine.

See U at the Nats in March.

trailranger

I posted this several pages back.

There is a 3.7V LiPO solution for Linked and T-bar cars.

It requires two pack sized of nearly EQUAL VOLUME of PACKS ALREADY IN PRODUCTION. This would provide nearly equal capacity so not much to complain about there.

For linked cas use the 4-cell Sub-Clength sized pack
92x47x23mm max dimensions


For T-Bar cars use the 3-cell Sub-C length sized pack (AKA Half Saddle)
70x47x30mm max dimensions


Sedans have asymetrical layouts and pan cars could too. place the battery on side of the T-plate, the ESC, RX, Wires, Servo on the other side.

A few of the guys at my local track are just going in and buying a TrackPower Saddle pack and going halves for $55 each. I have a linked car, so I built a custom pack similar to the SMC pack.

RC8

iTrader: (3)

Not exactly sure what a sunk cost is, but if your saying that because you already have a motor that you bought before, it's not costing you anything, that's seems silly to me. By that arguement the cost of either of these system varies depending on what you have already.

How can the cost vary from person to person? You need to compare apples to apples when trying to figure out the cost differences. I would think even a caveman would understand this.

Like this (as Roland stated):

Single cell/540 motor
1. ESC $150
2. Motor $75
3. Battery $50
4. Regulator/booster/rx pack $25

2S/380 motor
1. ESC $50
2. Motor $20 (seems low to me)
3. Battery $25 (seems low to me)

It's obvious that the single cell version costs more, fact. If I had to buy one of these systems, cost-wise it is a clear decision.

robk

iTrader: (22)

I explained it to you. It has nothing to do with you. The cars are too fast.
Too fast for everyone. You will see in March.

trailranger

Well, I already explained what sunk cost was. It is a cost that will not change no matter the future decision. The only cost that matters is the cost to retrofit existing equipment or the cost of buy all new.


Yes cost will vary person to person depending on what they already own. So no comparing apples to apples since everyones needs will vary. So converting 1:!2 to a mirco brushless system will not change the fact that last year you bought a 1:10 brushless system. If you own a RC18T with brushless and realized how much a P.O.S. all the micros are, then your sunk cost is owning the MIRCO Brushless system so your cost will vary too.

If you are a current 1:12 racer with a brushless system, then your cost will be minimal because you only have to buy a $10 RX pack to retrofit exsisting equipment. The battery cost is negated because, racers buy batteries frequently due to the short cycle lifespan. So a smart budget racer would only switch to 3.7V LiPO when thier last Main pack becomes a JUNK practice pack. Since batteries, tires and bodies are a varible cost, they only switching cost associated with going to 3.7V lipo is the RX pack.

If you are a current 1:12 race and switch to a mirco system: Then the outcome is that your old setup becomes a SUNK cost and has lost value and you will still need to buy Brushless system and Chassis designed for the new system making the switching cost over $350. Don't forget the varible cost of new tires, bodies and batteries. Yes you will need new tires and bodies if the car is alot lighter than right now. Add all the cost together and the Micro Brushless Setup will have the higher StartUP and Switching cost becuase many racers already own exsisting equipment.

If you are not a current 1:12 racer....Why the heck are you complaining about the switch 3.7V lipo. You still would have to buy evertying new:car, battery, motor, esc, tires and body. So why insist on pissing off a lot of verteran 1:12 racers who already own ESC's, MOTOR and Chassis designed for the current package just so they can run a MICRO system that has no set rules or whys to introduce a STOCK class?

Roland S

iTrader: (11)

Steve:

I hope you don’t mind me arguing with some of invalid points, I think, you made in your Con’s section.

1> New cells? It’s the same two cells you put them in serial or in parallel.
2> New motor? This is the only valid point you make, but it costs only $20.
3> New esc? If you don’t have a b’less esc, you need to buy one any way. If you already have one, you can use it regardless which type you have as I point it out in my post #252.
4> New tyres (softer tyres)? Of course you will need the softer tire, if you’re overpowering the chassis by using the 380size motor, not the 2030size I motor I recommend. I can run my car with magenta without any problem.
5> New charger/balancer? The battery I recommended and SMC battery have the same balancing tap. If you don’t have a lipo charger, of course you’ll need a new charger. If you already have a lipo charger that has a different balancing tap, then you will need a new charger if you can not find a balancing tap convert that suit your need, and that’s true to either battery you choose, so this point of yours is invalid, to me. If you would go to this website: http://www.maxamps.com and choose any lipo battery pack, you would need to make a selection, some with extra charge, in plug type. Wire size and, yes, balancing tap. There are 5 types of balancing taps available on this website and there may be more out there that I don’t know.
6> Less controllable (grip roll for the first time ever)? New setup? Well, you should have look at it as a completely new/different car and treat it as such. After all it’s a car that weights almost 2/3 of its original weight.


YGPM

Roland S

iTrader: (11)

Fred:

First of all, we should be able to disagree all we want on merits of thing we discuss here.
Not that I have done, but what’s wrong with calling people closed minded and wrong? If we can back it up with reasons and evidence. The political correctness attitude should be thrown into trash. You can call me closed minded and wrong all you want, if you can prove it; if you can’t prove it, people can see that too.

In fact, you’ve just called me that by saying:
” Roland, the problem that I have is the fact that YOU are the one that isn't open minded on this whole deal.”
Let’s see what you can back up with. You back up with what I challenged you on my post # 41, in it I said: “Would you be open mind enough to reconsider your position if I can point out where you are wrong? Is it possible that you could be wrong for once, right?

You see, I gave you the benefit of doubt that you are never wrong in your life time by asking you: Is it possible that you could be wrong for once,“
I don’t know you in person, so I don’t really know whether you are open minded or not, and I did not make it as a statement. I post it as a question:
“Would you be open mind enough to reconsider your position if I can point out where you are wrong?”

So, please read carefully. I didn’t say you were closed minded and wrong. You just assume I did.

Was I right? When I asked you, could you be wrong in post #41?
Answer: I don’t know because you never faced up the challenge I posted to you. You never came back with an answer. You could have said “Roland, you are wrong; I did try it with a 2030 motor.” Or you could have come back and say: “Roland, you are right, what I tried was a 380size motor, let me try the 2030 motor and see.” You see, most of people would have assumed you never did try the 2030size motor, otherwise you would have answered right back. Now it’s up to the reader to decide who makes more sense, who is more reasonable here.


You said:
” You've thrown those two backhanded remarks my way often enough…… “
“ backhanded remark”? Why was it a backhanded remark when I said it direct to you by mentioning your name to began my post #41 with? Is it still backhanded remark when
I’ve just proved it was merely your assumptions?
“Often enough?” Can you back it up the “often enough” claim?

You said:” ….that I pretty much dismiss anything new that you have to say….”
Dismiss? Not only you did not dismiss what I have to say, you read into it and respond.
Oops, I’m sorry, I’ve just pointed out a flaw in your statement.

On one hand, you want to let me know that you’re dismissing me, or what I have to say,
And in the same paragraph, you began by calling my name to catch my attention, as if you have important message for me. You know I can describe you as a self-centered person based on that. You want to dismiss me and at the same time I should pay attention to you.

Enough said and I am going to end this by saying that we are adults and we can gentlemanly disagree with each other and argue with reasons in our arguments like I’ve just demonstrated. So, please keep the “childlike” argument, your words, not mine, to yourself.

InspGadgt

Of course there are also legions of fans, and many manufacturers, who think that all this cost control is stupid. Many feel that F1 needs to get back to it's roots of unlimited technical innovation.

Der Dicke

Did you try out the Trakpower pack? 30mm height sounds very high.

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

the track power packs are a bit cumbersome. so far SMC's got the only thing for link cars. my advice is get a link car and a smc4000 1c pack and race it . sell the tbar car while u still can. they are becoming a thing of the past.

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

F1 is supposed to be the pinnacle of motorsports. I kinda miss the mansel days with computer controlled evereything .. but admit it.. this year and last were two of the most exciting years to watch ever .. and it was with nothing more than go-kart tech. gotta love it tho..... F1Freak here 4 sure !
and yes... they are too fast (1/12 the that is) even in stock for most people.

MACHFIVE

The solution for a T-Bar car and 3.7 LiPO is to run the lipo on one side and the electronics on the other side unless the 3.7 LiPO weighs a lot more than the electronics. What's the weight on the SMC 3.7 LiPO?