ESmith

Just Getting back into on road racing after several years. I have to travel a couple of hours to the nearest track, which is'nt a big deal because I am there to visit family anyway. The only places I have around where I live to practice are parking lots. Are graphite touring cars durable for regular use in parking lot racing? I was considering a TC5 but have concerns of running it on pavement that is not "groomed". Would I just be better off with a plastic tub car? I was also considering the Tamiya TCS series. But for that I know it would have to be a Tamiya car. Any advice on graphite or plastic? And choice between Tamiya (Ta05 IFS-R, TB IV, TRF415 msxx marc rhinehard) or the TC5?

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I went the TA-05IFSR for this very reason, to be able to bash it around in a car park. Couldn't do that with a graphite one. And also the cost of a replacement chassis on a tub is MUCH lower should you manage to kill it.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

if your considering the TCS series... there are several options.

if you want to run GT1 and regular races outside the series. get the TRF416. Or the new edition of the 416 coming out fairly soon.

if you get a tub car.. you can run either GT2 or GT3. TA05R-IFS would be the logical choice.

advantages of the tub cars is that their replacement chassis is MUCH more cheaper than double deck graphite.

InspGadgt

A graphite chassis is very durable in most cases...the real hang up is if you can become ok with it getting scratched up. Even scratched up it will take quite awhile before you will actually need to replace the chassis from normal wear and tear. As a long time asphault racer it's just something I've had to accept is that my nice pretty graphite chassis were going to get scratched up. There are a couple products out that put a laminate on the bottom to protect it but eventually a rock will still get through that...and it makes maintenance on the car a pain. If you just can't get your mind past the scratches then look for some sort of tub car.

trailranger

I used to do this with my Kyosho Outrage back in the day bashing in the street and pop over curbs. Take a piece of sheet metal and trim a piece for the front and back where most of the scraps occur. Bolt the plate in place with Button Head Screws.

Now I just do this.

On my Xray T2, drilled two holes left right of the tweak hole and used a stainless steel buttonhead screws. It seemed to work as the screw was getting ground down after this summer. I would rather replace a nickles worth of screws than a $80 chassis anyday.

Another option, but I could not find these is to replace all the screws on the chassis bottom from flat-head to oval head.

Rommel

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean a rock will get thru? The film itself? I'm asking because I offer one that is made from urethane designed for paint protection on full-size cars. What products have you tried? Check out John Stranahan's results after some runs:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...n-film-020.jpg

94eg!

iTrader: (17)

I race a 415-MSX-MRE at the local parking-lot races. Every race-day as part of chassis prep, I put a layer of 3M blue painters tape (3 strips 2" wide) on the bottom. I quickly trim out all the chassis holes (not battery as the tape is already in place) with an x-acto. Then its ready to go. The tape takes abrasions well, and tends to live though the 3 to 4 races we run...

I understand this is a little anal for most, but it is still an option. Any small gouges that manage to find their way onto the chassis are then filled with CA.

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

If you choose Tamiya, go to Ebay and search TAO5.

There is someone selling a NIB TA05R for $250. If I didn't already have 2 TA05s I would have bought it.

tc3team

Ive raced a car with a graphite chassis for two seasons indoors and out, admittably the car has quite a few scrapes on it now underneath but it's not hurting how the car works.

If the suspension is set correctly, through normal wear and tear the chassis should last you a long time- just remember to CA the edges though to stop any splintering

Ferrarimk13

graphite chassis' are pefectly fine for parking lots if youre not afraid of scratches, because on even the most perfect tarmac, it still bottoms out sometimes. If anything, make a lexan chassis protector for it.

mini_mac

if you've really RCd before you shouldn't need to ask this question

scootr117

Sounds like the chassis question is about Carbon Fiber not Graphite.......
If your into keeping it pretty......put a cover over it. I used two layers of contact paper ( drawer liner) and no problems....

Rommel

iTrader: (3)

I know rocks going thru battery slot,motor openings etc where film covers but I was wondering if you meant chipping thru the film itself where it is covering the chassis.

under200

iTrader: (9)

Another thing to consider is that a carbon fiber chassis doesn't collect rocks and dirt as easy. I race a TA05-R and a Schumacher Mi3. The TA05 tub chassis collects all sorts of junk. The Mi3 on the other hand allows the junk to fall right off or down. I also use a protective sheet on the chassis and it seems fine.

Tony

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

how about just using a sheet of that chassis protector stuff from AE