Average mod motor lifetime
09-21-2003, 07:57 AM
#1
Average mod motor lifetime
Hi, I am new to 1:10 touring and I am interested to get a mod motor like Team Orion Core 12 double. The question now is, how many pack of batteries I can expect to run from those motors? Let suppose I have a Comm lathe and cut the Commutator every 6 packs of battery.
Also, how do I tell if my motor is overheated? say without the help of a heat sensor.
Thanks!
Also, how do I tell if my motor is overheated? say without the help of a heat sensor.
Thanks!
Last edited by discus18; 09-21-2003 at 08:03 AM.
09-21-2003, 08:58 AM
#2
Motors will last a long time... If your just bashing I wouldn't worry too much, I have 10 year old motors that are still going... Just clean the motor every few packs, change the brushes when they get worn, cleaning the comm isn't a bad idea either... If you are going to race, that's a whole different ballgame... Everyone has their own way of doing things... Can you cut the comm every 3 runs, sure... Can you go a couple of racedays, sure...
09-21-2003, 09:00 AM
#3
Overheating...
Brushes-
Bad---- Darker copper look on area just behind the brushface (surface that comes in contact with the comm)
Very bad- Greyish look to the brush especially to area just behind the face....
Commutator-
Bad-- dark copper (tarnished look) to the comm.
Very bad- purplish tint to the comm
Wire stacks on the armature-
Bad-- wires have a darker copper (tarnished) look to them than normal.....
Very bad- Wires are burnt and blackened
If your motor shows any of the signs above you will be better off just replacing the armature, springs, and brushes. If you just replace the brushes and have the comm cut chances are very high the motor will overheat agian, once the comm is damaged it can be made to look new, but it will show it's true colors after the first run.......
always replace springs when you replace burnt brushes.... actually they should always be replaced when you use new brushes but we all know how often that happens...
Other signs-
-Parts melted
-Solder joints melting (if the power wires come undone on consecutive runs)
-Smoke coming from inside of motor
-Fire
A good, but possibly painful way of testing motor temps is to place you finger on the can, if you can hold it there for 3 seconds comfortably then the motor is fine...... the chance of recieving burns is very high if you believe your motor is severly overheating or you are an idiot.......
Personally as soon as I pick the car up I will generally place my nose close (3-4inches away) from the motor and smell the heat before I place my fingers on it..... over the years I can tell generally how bad things are just from smelling the heat......
Bad---- Darker copper look on area just behind the brushface (surface that comes in contact with the comm)
Very bad- Greyish look to the brush especially to area just behind the face....
Commutator-
Bad-- dark copper (tarnished look) to the comm.
Very bad- purplish tint to the comm
Wire stacks on the armature-
Bad-- wires have a darker copper (tarnished) look to them than normal.....
Very bad- Wires are burnt and blackened
If your motor shows any of the signs above you will be better off just replacing the armature, springs, and brushes. If you just replace the brushes and have the comm cut chances are very high the motor will overheat agian, once the comm is damaged it can be made to look new, but it will show it's true colors after the first run.......
always replace springs when you replace burnt brushes.... actually they should always be replaced when you use new brushes but we all know how often that happens...
Other signs-
-Parts melted
-Solder joints melting (if the power wires come undone on consecutive runs)
-Smoke coming from inside of motor
-Fire
A good, but possibly painful way of testing motor temps is to place you finger on the can, if you can hold it there for 3 seconds comfortably then the motor is fine...... the chance of recieving burns is very high if you believe your motor is severly overheating or you are an idiot.......
Personally as soon as I pick the car up I will generally place my nose close (3-4inches away) from the motor and smell the heat before I place my fingers on it..... over the years I can tell generally how bad things are just from smelling the heat......
10-17-2003, 02:09 AM
#4
I'd run 2 machine wound Atlas mod motors. The two of them wouldn't last 2 months of about every other week of racing. The wire would just got darken causing a motor to overheat. I lathed them every 6 batts.
I ran it on my Xray, with a final ratio of 8.94 - the motor would scream about 3/4th on the 110 feet straight line. Would bump a tooth up on the pinion help the motor cool a bit ?
I ran it on my Xray, with a final ratio of 8.94 - the motor would scream about 3/4th on the 110 feet straight line. Would bump a tooth up on the pinion help the motor cool a bit ?
10-17-2003, 02:17 AM
#5
Tech Regular
i think down one tooth would normally make it run cooler, as the motor would not pull as bigger current out of the corners. Unless you are running an unsual "super revvy" ratio.. which by the sound of ur talking .. toppin out 3/4 of straight.. i dont think u are.. so i would go down one tooth on pinion and rechek temp
:-)
:-)
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