SSG & Old School Carbon Fiber
#1
SSG & Old School Carbon Fiber
just wondering whats the diffrence besides looks??
im planning/ thinking about getting this for my 414mII i know its suppose to handel a bit better because the battery holders are closer to the center but what else?
im planning/ thinking about getting this for my 414mII i know its suppose to handel a bit better because the battery holders are closer to the center but what else?
#2
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
It's mainly just the bling bling, though I've heard that the SSG coating may help prevent the carbon fiber plate from becoming brittle over time(supposedly, the UV rays in sunlight makes that stuff go brittle eventually). But it will have NO impact on a car's performance(unless it's a bit different than a stock chassis, like say moving the battery slots closer to the center).....
#3
R/C Tech Founder
Just make sure that you sand down the edges of the chassis with a fine sandpaper and seal them with CA glue. With that treatment, your SSG chassis will last a long time.
#4
im just gonna stick with normal carbon fiber
does this sanding and CA method work with normal carbon fiber
what kinda grit are you looking at when sanding down the edges and which kinda of CA is best??? thick thin or medium
does this sanding and CA method work with normal carbon fiber
what kinda grit are you looking at when sanding down the edges and which kinda of CA is best??? thick thin or medium
Last edited by Calvin Ng; 09-21-2003 at 08:29 AM.
#5
R/C Tech Founder
It will work (and is recommended) for any woven chassis plate, SSG or not. SSG (silver surface graphite) is just a decorative material used to plate the top and bottom surface. If you look at the material from the sides, you will see that it is a standard woven graphite material.
I just did a chassis last night, using 3M "very fine" sandpaper (anything that is 100 grit or finer will work) and medium CA glue. The medium glue is a bit more "runny" so it is easier to spread, but also takes longer to dry and may end up on the top/bottom of the chassis plate.
Sealing the chassis in this manner will also help prevent against electrical shorts, since you are blocking the conductivity of the material.
I just did a chassis last night, using 3M "very fine" sandpaper (anything that is 100 grit or finer will work) and medium CA glue. The medium glue is a bit more "runny" so it is easier to spread, but also takes longer to dry and may end up on the top/bottom of the chassis plate.
Sealing the chassis in this manner will also help prevent against electrical shorts, since you are blocking the conductivity of the material.
#6
Originally posted by futureal
It will work (and is recommended) for any woven chassis plate, SSG or not. SSG (silver surface graphite) is just a decorative material used to plate the top and bottom surface. If you look at the material from the sides, you will see that it is a standard woven graphite material.
I just did a chassis last night, using 3M "very fine" sandpaper (anything that is 100 grit or finer will work) and medium CA glue. The medium glue is a bit more "runny" so it is easier to spread, but also takes longer to dry and may end up on the top/bottom of the chassis plate.
Sealing the chassis in this manner will also help prevent against electrical shorts, since you are blocking the conductivity of the material.
It will work (and is recommended) for any woven chassis plate, SSG or not. SSG (silver surface graphite) is just a decorative material used to plate the top and bottom surface. If you look at the material from the sides, you will see that it is a standard woven graphite material.
I just did a chassis last night, using 3M "very fine" sandpaper (anything that is 100 grit or finer will work) and medium CA glue. The medium glue is a bit more "runny" so it is easier to spread, but also takes longer to dry and may end up on the top/bottom of the chassis plate.
Sealing the chassis in this manner will also help prevent against electrical shorts, since you are blocking the conductivity of the material.
so you mean you ca the whole chassis
at the last part in your quote it sounds like electricy only passes through the edges.............
#7
Tech Addict
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In the pits throwing wrenches at slow cars!
Posts: 548
calvin,
Yes, you should do the entire chassis. Not the top or bottom (horizontal surfaces) just the edges. This includes any cutouts for cells and any other cut out bigger than dime. This is done mainly to help prevent the layers of the chassis from de-laminating during an impact. Remember to slightly champfer the edges of the cell slots so that there is no sharp point to rub on the cell. Using CA on the battery slots can also prevent the shrink wrap on the cells from wearing through. This could lead to a shorted cell(s) as carbon fiber is conductive.
Yes, you should do the entire chassis. Not the top or bottom (horizontal surfaces) just the edges. This includes any cutouts for cells and any other cut out bigger than dime. This is done mainly to help prevent the layers of the chassis from de-laminating during an impact. Remember to slightly champfer the edges of the cell slots so that there is no sharp point to rub on the cell. Using CA on the battery slots can also prevent the shrink wrap on the cells from wearing through. This could lead to a shorted cell(s) as carbon fiber is conductive.
#8
any way to prevnt the ca from running on the surface of the chassis?
#9
Tech Addict
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In the pits throwing wrenches at slow cars!
Posts: 548
calvin,
Just use a small amount at a time and try to spread it out evenly. You can use a q-tipp but it needs to stay wet otherwise it will harden up and leave little rough spots. You'll also have rig up something to let you hang the chassis up. Don't put it down like I did once. I ended up with bitts of pit towel all over the edges...not so smooth !
Just use a small amount at a time and try to spread it out evenly. You can use a q-tipp but it needs to stay wet otherwise it will harden up and leave little rough spots. You'll also have rig up something to let you hang the chassis up. Don't put it down like I did once. I ended up with bitts of pit towel all over the edges...not so smooth !
#11
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Calvin Ng
so you mean you ca the whole chassis
at the last part in your quote it sounds like electricy only passes through the edges.............
so you mean you ca the whole chassis
at the last part in your quote it sounds like electricy only passes through the edges.............
#12
i just finished the ca the dripped to the side i just used acetone and cleaned it off nooo problem
thanx you guyz
thanx you guyz
#13
Tech Addict
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In the pits throwing wrenches at slow cars!
Posts: 548
K Tan,
That's the way I've sealled every carbon fiber chassis for 20 years! I've never used mor than 2 or 3 per chassis. Maybe it's just all the practice...
That's the way I've sealled every carbon fiber chassis for 20 years! I've never used mor than 2 or 3 per chassis. Maybe it's just all the practice...
#15
Tech Adept
FYI all the new colored Graphite chassis' that are out or are coming out are all flash...
The down side is that a colored chassis that is the same thickness as a standard black graphite chassis will FLEX more. The coloring affect is actually a thin layer of chemically treated fiberglass, thus taking away a top and bottom layer of graphite (stiffness). The only way to make an equal chassis is to make the colored chassis thicker thus also heavier. Coolness and flash do not make you go faster....
The down side is that a colored chassis that is the same thickness as a standard black graphite chassis will FLEX more. The coloring affect is actually a thin layer of chemically treated fiberglass, thus taking away a top and bottom layer of graphite (stiffness). The only way to make an equal chassis is to make the colored chassis thicker thus also heavier. Coolness and flash do not make you go faster....