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Old 08-31-2003, 11:13 PM   #16
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I am learning a lot form this post. I am still junior in the this sport, but I read the hobby forums often, and I think the issues of chargers, power supplies, and batteries are all to often over looked.
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:25 AM   #17
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Well thanks for all the info folks. I got a brand new Integy 16x7v6 (30 amp discharge) coming in the mail shortly... we'll see how well this works out for me.

I have almost everything I need now...
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:26 AM   #18
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Will you be running at Venture?? You should make it to Trackside a couple of times as well.
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:59 AM   #19
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I am going to start at Venture... basically the story is this:

Bought a RC10T3 several years ago, bashed with it for a long time. Replaced it with a XXX-T ME and ran it at RadioActive for a while but only in practice. Got out of RC for a little while and reentered with a XXX-NT but didn't really like it. After run a friends TC3 recently I came to a realization...

1. I love wrenching almost more than driving.
2. I never liked the large cleanup time and mess associated with either dirt or nitro which makes TC appealing.
3. I always loved the real car look of the TC class but also the dense packed chassis on TC's.

So to make a long story short I live in the west burbs of Chicago and will be driving to Venture (1 hour drive) for the fall carpet racing. I know I will never be a hardcore 2-3 time a week guy, but I am confident I can make it 3 times a month or more.

The stuff in my XXX-S will be nice, it will be a full G+ kit although I know it will mean I will have broken stuff more I get the extras like threaded shocks, improvements to tight track handling, and Ti links that come with the kit. I will run at first a Novak Brushless so I can have the best of both worlds: mild mod speed, nice stock speed, and the option of reverse when learning and practicing. Did I mention not having to do motor work? Hopefully a brushless class will develop because I would be useless in open mod but I will be good to learn the car without worrying about the motor. If not at some point I might get a stock motor... we'll see. Finally I will run the XS-3 I got for my XXX-NT which will be nice to insure maximum practice times and my new Integy 16x7v6 will provide a compact soultion for charging/discharging/ac/dc use with my first ever matched packs (I used to use sticks, I will have to buy a better soldering iron and some low end matched packs shortly.)

This all comes this week in the mail supported by a recent big ebay sale of my old offroad stuff. I will start wrenching next weekend and hope to be out and runable within 7-14 days of getting the kit so I am sure I will be the newbie begging for help at Venture in about 2 weeks.
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Old 09-01-2003, 10:47 AM   #20
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The guys that race at venture can help you out im sure. Just ask if you have questions.
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Old 09-01-2003, 12:18 PM   #21
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Thanks...

I have never owned a higher end charger (all the ones I have owned have had Tamyia (sp?) plugs on them) so just some basic questions...

1. If you want to charge an old pack with Deans or Tamyia plugs on it with a charger that has alligator clips I assume you simply get a pig tail adapter with a tamyia/deans plug on one end and wire trailing with bare tips to clip the alligator clips to... correct?

2. How do most non-factory guys setup their battery to ESC/motor connections? Are you setting up matched packs with permanent Deans connectors or are you soldering the wire directly to the pack? Do you find it is pretty easy to just solder on and off the wires between heats... I am ok with an iron but I work really slow and with wires etc. I am good if I use a third hand tool or have someone help hold everything.
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Old 09-01-2003, 01:14 PM   #22
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I solder everything. wires to motor and batts. I do it all hardwire. The connections will never come undone if it is a good hold. Pick up a 60 watt iron to get some good heat.
I just stick the clips in the plug to the correct pin, but yes making an optional connector works too.
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trinityracinnut
No i dont use the discharge function on it. its too low and does hurt the cells if they are getting drawn at higher amperages such as a stocker doing 20 amps roughly.
ok. after i read your reply i soldered 15 automotive light bulbs together and built a cut-off device, i measured it and it cuts-off right around 5.2 to 5.3 volts, is that safe for my bats? by the way, i'm using nimh bats and no nicds. tanx

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Old 09-01-2003, 06:07 PM   #24
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That should be fine. Mine also does. The batts rejuventate a little bit, u can watch the voltage go back up.
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:36 PM   #25
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tanx, i'll try it this wed in a practice session.

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Old 09-01-2003, 08:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by saabcaptain
I have never owned a higher end charger (all the ones I have owned have had Tamyia (sp?) plugs on them) so just some basic questions...

1. If you want to charge an old pack with Deans or Tamyia plugs on it with a charger that has alligator clips I assume you simply get a pig tail adapter with a tamyia/deans plug on one end and wire trailing with bare tips to clip the alligator clips to... correct?
I use a MillPro on packs with either TAMIYA and Deans Ultra plugs.
MillPro comes std with croc clips.

Small alligator clips will fit fine into the pins on the TAMIYA plugs.

Really, they fit better on the TAMIYA plugs than they do on the
Deans... where one jaw sits on the contacts and the other jaw
is clamping onto the outside plastic. But they don't seem to
mind that when pumping in up to 6A.


The dischargers also have croc clips.

When clamped to the TAMIYA plugs, I can get 20A without them
warming up much. 30A is possible even for 5mins, with monitoring.

When on the Deans, one jaw's contact is not enough to handle
even 20A... I've made up a Deans-TAMIYA plug to solve that.
Otherwise the plastic sheath of the crocs start smoking...



(so.... got that spelling of TAMIYA yet? )
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