LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

well all the other 1/10 onroads have a thread so lets do one for the speedmerchant speed spec II. who has these cars? post your setups.

i'm in the process of building one for outdoor asphalt, anyone have setup tips? i'm looking for setup info like what front springs, shock spring, tweak springs, shock oil, rear axle height adjusters, tire compounds and diameters, etc...

from what i found in the other threads of this type, most cars are using pink or double pink tires on all for corners. tire diameters from 2.100" f/r for smooth and 2.281" f/r for bumpy tracks.

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

I will allow some of the more asphalt prone drivers answer your question more specific to asphalt.

Being that we mostly (read only) race carpet at my local track, I can put down what we are running for a set-up on our carpet...

My car was set-up for briefly running with the World GT prototypes. It is now back confined to the Mabucci 540 silver can pulled from M03 duty, as the class rules call for silver cans only.

Ride height: front 4.5mm; middle 3.5 mm; rear 4.5 mm
Tires: front; purple 2.25", rear; pink or d-pink 2.25" (can't remember)
Springs: front, .020; shock, red; sides, .023
Center droop: 1mm+
Damping: shock 35wt. AE or Trinity, tubes, medium spooge
Current shell: Honda NSX

I think the gears are 104s and 34p, I could be wrong.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

tubes? medium spooge? the speed spec doesn't have tubes unless the car was modified.

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

whoops! I got bad dixlesia... I'm working with a Pro10 right now... (not finished building), and I am running med spooge in my Rev.5... Simple cross pollination, really..

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

the pro10 setup info is good. i can't find any info on the speed spec cars but there are alot of guys that say they race them. i figure if i get as much info as i can on any pan car setups it will help me with my car. i'm completely new to the pan car scene.

The Bear

iTrader: (13)

I can't be of any help on setup, but I'll bump this thread for a great car and a great company.

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

I don't have a speed spec myself but here's some general advice on asphalt pancar running:

For Tires:
Pinks can be seen as "soft" compound, double pink can be seen as "medium".
I don't know if there any tires with the kit, but if there are, run them down first.

As a starting setup, go for what's in the manual.
Make sure everything is straight and even left to right.
Here's some setup basics:
Start with the tires on the size they come out of the box.
Speedmerchant, as any other manufacturer, puts in a lot of effort to make a stock setup that works on most tracks and surfaces.

A ride height of 5mm front and rear is usually a good starting point on asphalt.
Apply traction compound (I use Jack the Gripper - doesn't smell) to the full rolling surface of the rear tire and only a very small section of the inside of the front tire.
Let the traction compound sit for at least 15 minutes. Wipe the tires clean with paper towels or an old rag before running.
take it easy on the first few laps as the excess traction compound will have to come off.

Try your car in stock trim, run it a few times and then:

If you car understeers, apply traction compound to a larger surface on the front tire.
If you car oversteers, apply less or no traction compound to the front tire.
If the car still oversteers, use less dual rate on your transmitter.

Some important tips:
- swap the left and right tires at least every other run so they wear down at the same pace.
- Check your ride height every other run and adjust according to tire wear so your chassis stays level and the car remains around 4-5mm ride height.

Let us know how it goes!

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Welcome to 1/10 pan guys. I was asked to post here. I think I will just put a link up as Pro ten has a good post right above. Check out the first 7 pages or so of the Pantoura thread if you are new to 1/10 pan. There are several choices of tire prep there as well as sources for parts and supplies. I'll note that I like Jack the Gripper traction compound from Corally. I'll also note that the formula changed when they went to a plastic bottle instead of the steel can. Smells different, works different and may be just plain Kingsford low odor charcoal lighter fluid now.
John

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=127484

Ferrarimk13

mm, i love the smell of lighter fluid, but are you serious. or just joking?

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

he's serious...

The Bear

iTrader: (13)

I don't know about outdoor asphalt, but those plastic bottles of jack with the envelope dobber are awesome especially when you are inside running carpet.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

This is Kingford charcoal lighter fluid for the outdoor grill, I am talking about. Works the same as the Jack the Gripper in the envelope dauber plastic bottle. Very little odor. I have good traction with it, although some complained that the formula is not quite as good as the old stuff in the can. I like the applicator on the new plastic bottle as it does the fronts in one pass and the rears in two quick passes.

On the speed spec solid front end. Shimming is the way to gain caster. You unscrew the block and add washer under the front part to tilt it back at 2-4 degrees. I have a report from Frank Calandra, the owner of CRC, that they used to redrill the suspension block to get some camber into this solid front end. I have done this myself to the newer associated front end but I redrilled the steering arms instead. (for different reasons.) It was not that hard. First buy some spare steering arms. Find a piece of plastic rod (the excess from a parts tree) and super glue it in the hole. Then redrill the hole at a 3-4 degree angle. Make the top of the tires tilt inward. Now with your shim job you have caster and camber on the tire. Your tire wear will be more even with the additional camber. Rotate tires side to side every two heats or so.

John

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

Rev 3, 4, 4.5 we were using the washers to add caster, however, we found that re-drilling the old skool front suspension mounts is not really needed. Instead, we add thin strips of header card (the card stapled to the top of a spare parts bag) to the outside edges under the suspension mounts to add negative camber. In 12th, I only needed 2 strips per side (or one with the thicker header cards). Since the molds for the old skool suspension mounts are pretty old, use a spare antenna in place of the king pin when first mounting the arm to the chassis to measure the angles of your caster and camber with a gauge like the RPM one...

It's pretty tough to get an accurate re-drill without a drill press and a vice. I'd hate to see anyone mess up a set of suspension mounts for no reason.

bigmac567

I have been racing a Speed Spec for about a year now, and I have had so much fun with this car. I run in a spec class, which the main purpose of this class is to teach a new driver how to drive a good clean line. We run the silver can Tamiya motors, and most of the racers use purple front and pink rear tires. Driving this class and constantly getting tips and tricks from some of the more experienced drivers at my local track, has vastly improved my driving ability. Also it made for a good transition into 1/12th scale racing. I know I haven't really said much about setup on the car, but I really cant say enough good things about this car. Oh and also in the entire time I have been driving it I have broken only one part, and it was my own fault. (19t+Wall at the end of the straight=Broken Front arm)

The Bear

iTrader: (13)

I 'bear' witness to the learning curve that bigmac went through. I can honestly say that he would have spent at least 9 times as much if he had done that with a touring car. Great chassis to learn on, no doubt.

Bigmac even drives a 1/12th now as if he knows where the lines are!