Tim Stamper

Thanks for looking at it for me.

I unplugged the wire for operation, like you told me to do at Cinci 1/8th scale nats when I talk to you. I run a reciever pack. I plugged it back in for the programming. I even turned everything off and then re-read the profile of the esc and it was set just as I programmed it. I don't have any problems with the actual programming. It takes the settings perfectly.

Thanks again.

Tim

=MisFitz= NuKe

Well Tim and Robert, I unplug the + wire also, since I too run a reciever pack, and I have no problems, it takes the settings perfectly every time. Guess I am just lucky

stankulas

anyone know where i can get the HB Hara Twister

Tim Stamper

I got mine from Riders hobby shop, here in Livonia, MI.

They somehow got one in stock. I would talk to Bobby at Riders hobby in Taylor, MI at (734) 287-7405. He can get the vfs-2000 at a decent price. It's not as pretty as the twister, but a good price is a good price.

Tim

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

you can order direct from Horizon Hobbies... or one the shops in HK...

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Hey RObert, I got your message from Toastie. I'll be at the Nats and was wondering if you might have a refurbished or used 75mhz 301F sitting around that you could swap out with me? I sure would appreciate it!!!!

See ya in a couple days!!

Tim Stamper

Ko Propo Staff,

I talked to Adam yesterday and he said that you didn't find anything wrong with the speedo. Thanks for looking at it for me.

I know the settings were a little high for stock, they were changed all over the place from all 1's to the stock setup on the web site to a mod setup. I set it to all 17's, but Adam told me he tried some other settings. So I don't know exactly what setting it left to the champs with. The thin gauge wires have been on the speed control for 3 months now, and they didn't make a difference in operation. I am currently also using them on my lrp.

I ran the Supplied brown Cap always and I also always ran 2 SS diodes on the motor. Adam said that you brought that up.

Well, my ko servo's and radios haven't given me any problems. I will stick to those and use another companys esc.

I guess I save it for when I eventually run Mod. It works great then.

Tim

PizzaDude

Ko Staff,

I have another Q for ya.

From the Caps thread:
Quote:
I just want to clarify:
There is a + and a -. The capacitor minus wire is marked with a white stripe with minus on it on the body of the cap.
You must hook it up to the wires going from the ESC to the battery (as close to the ESC as possible). Red is +, black is -.
Hooking it up on the ESC wires to the motor will have the opposite of the desired effect (both the motor and the cap will be fighting for charge as you accelerate).

It has made a clear, noticable difference for me. Acceleration is MUCH quicker.

Well does this work?

KO PROPO Staff

Your settings on the ESC were quite high for a stock setting and that is probably why you felt like you had no punch. Your setting did look more like a mod motor setting rather than a stock setting.

KO PROPO Staff

Are you connecting the cap to the motor wires?? The cap should be connected to the battery wires as close to ESC as possible. The caps give you more punch. If you do not purchse the manufacture's caps, you should purchase one that has the same specs. There is a reasoning behind the specs that they offer these caps at. Using the wrong Votage cap can damage your ESC.

Tim Stamper

Robert,

I'm not gonna get into this. This is gonna be a long winded response. Read my posts brotha. I said that it was set for multiple settings and tested. It left my hands back at 17's across the board. Adam tried to program it when he got it from me, and I don't know what he set it to. He was gonna use it for Mod, that's maybe why it was set high. I had tried settings from: http://www.kopropo.com/vfs_help_center.htm and no luck. The speed control doesn't work, and that's the bottom line. When I get it back from Adam, I will look at the settings that he had changed it to and see what you were seeing. I am going to set it back to 17's across the board and pack it up and ship it out to one of my friends to test it.

I am done dealing with this speed control. It worked fine until I set it to Doseck's mod 25's setup. I ran it with 2 ss diodes and the brown turd cap that came with it. I ran a Orion revolution 10x1 with a 1.25 rollout with the lower power enduro brushes. The thing was great. Then I changed, yes changed, the profile back to 17's across the board and slapped my stock motor back in. I previously ran my stock motor that day and had a baseline reference. I instantly noticed how sluggish this was now. My lap times were almost 2 seconds slower in stock and I couldn't figure it out. The drivers that I was lapping before were pulling me in the corners and catching me on the straight. I then pulled my hair out for 2 weeks, bought new cells, tried everything. Then on of my friends lent me his quantum comp. I put it in the car and didn't even change the punch profile and it was night and day different. I looked at the punch profile and it was set to 2 with drag brake. I then set it to 5 and took out the initial brake and automatic brake and the car came alive. It felt like my car did the first 3 months I has the vfs-2000. Here's the profile that I used and tested that it stayed in the speed control below. I unplugged the speed control, waited a minute, and re-hooked everything up. Then I turned on the setting adapter, put the speed control in program mode and read the profile from the speed control. It was exactly as I set it.

7,6,5,4,3,2,1,1,1,1,1,1,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,10,10 ,10,10,10,10,10,10,10,10


Thanks for your support in this, and if I get the cash I will buy another because it was the best speed control I have ever used, when it worked.

Tim

KO PROPO Staff

Tim,
Try the ESC with out the cap and see if there is a difference. You could have a bad cap, wich would rob you of power. There was no cap when it was given to me. When I used the oscilloscope at the Nats, everything looked perfect on the ESC.

=MisFitz= NuKe

hey robert,
we clear on my account???

Tim Stamper

That was actually what I thought too, but it ran better with the cap on. Without the cap installed and on an open track where I don't have to let off, it was fine. Then I came back to Larrys and it was a turd. I put the same cap on my lrp, and it ran fine. I also tested with a novak 4700uF cap, and both of the lrp caps. I also checked the voltage coming out of the esc and is was very clean. If I give it enough room to spin up, it tops off fine, it just seems to flatten out under initial load. Maybe, when I get it back, I will hook up a circuit to test the amp output versus voltage level. I will hook up some of my meters and run it on a slave motor and apply a slight load on it and see what happens to the voltage as the amps go up.

I will post what I find out. Thanks for the quick response. In no was was I trying to complain about you, i'm just frustrated. You helped my friend John out without even batting an eye in NC. I know what you guys go through with racers, and I am happy that you are out there to help.

I have been working with electronics for a long time now, and I can tell when something just isn't working right.

Tim

gcooper

Does the hand held programmer work well vs the computer hookup. Are there any disadvantages of using one vs the other?

Coop