U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
#4681
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I've been thinking of trying some "hardware store" rattle cans on a body in the future. I think as long as you get paint that is designed to bond with plastic you should be fine. I would think paint made for outside plastic furniture would work. The only issue you might run into is getting it to spray in thin/fine layers so the body doesn't weigh too much.
Only other issue is price. I've noticed this type of paint is more expensive at craft stores (Jo-Ann Fabrics, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc). Big box stores or even bargain stores might be the best price.
The other option would be automotive paint designed for plastic, such as bumpers. I would think that would be more expensive.
-----------
Regardless of which way you go, please post your results.
Only other issue is price. I've noticed this type of paint is more expensive at craft stores (Jo-Ann Fabrics, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc). Big box stores or even bargain stores might be the best price.
The other option would be automotive paint designed for plastic, such as bumpers. I would think that would be more expensive.
-----------
Regardless of which way you go, please post your results.
I have the black which I use for backing and it seems to stick/hold up. Haven't tried painting a complete car yet but next body will see a Krylon spray job.
#4683
nevermind, file wouldn't upload!
#4684
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Walmart carries Krylon Fusion....http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-for-plastic/
I have the black which I use for backing and it seems to stick/hold up. Haven't tried painting a complete car yet but next body will see a Krylon spray job.
I have the black which I use for backing and it seems to stick/hold up. Haven't tried painting a complete car yet but next body will see a Krylon spray job.
#4685
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
I have used this paint as both a primary and backup on my dirt oval bodies. it seems to hold up great when using as a backup paint. I scuffed the insides a body and used as a primary color (white) and it held up for a couple of weeks but then after a couple of hits to the body the paint started to flake off. While it works on plastic it still doesn't seem to have enough flex to stick as a primary paint.
#4686
Tech Addict
Sorta on topic. I noticed a yellowing of the area anywhere I apply shoe goo. I haven't seen this on all of my cars so I didn't know what was going on.
Apparently something in the Tamiya white reacts with the shoe goo and causes yellowing. Doesn't show through to the outside UNLESS the outer color is white too.
But... on my cars backed with Pactra white, it does not do this. Unfortunately, the last remaining remnants of Pactra paint are all but gone...
Apparently something in the Tamiya white reacts with the shoe goo and causes yellowing. Doesn't show through to the outside UNLESS the outer color is white too.
But... on my cars backed with Pactra white, it does not do this. Unfortunately, the last remaining remnants of Pactra paint are all but gone...
#4687
I have tried the Krylon fusion and other "plastic paints" No bueno. They flaked off after taking a few hits.
#4688
I know they wouldn't be VTA legal, but it would be cool to see an El Camino or Rancharo body.
#4690
How we all feel when it happens...
#4691
Tech Addict
RJ Speed 1/10 Classic & Trucks: 1968 L-Cam Pickup Body - Description: MADE FROM CLEAR .040" LEXAN AND HAVE PROTECTIVE FILM AND WINDOW MASKS. LENGTH 18.0" - WIDTH 8.25" - Wheelbase 10.5"
Part # BOL2247
http://www.rccarkings.net/bodies.htm#rjspeed
#4692
Tech Addict
For those of you asking about using different paints: I use Testor's spray lacquers on my VTA and pan-car oval cars. The lacquer "bites" into the Lexan. I would think you could use any lacquer as long as you sand/scuff the inside of the body (or outside, if you're doing that "flat-black' thing).
No problems with paint flaking off at all.
No problems with paint flaking off at all.
#4694
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I have tried the Dupli-Color Lacquer in the past - and it didn't hold up at all - I was sooo bummed!!
I've thought about spraying some clear first, to see if it would adhere to that - but I hate wasting bodies...
I've used Automotive Lacquer in the past (from a touch up gun) - but it's hard to get that stuff in CALIF now days.
I've thought about spraying some clear first, to see if it would adhere to that - but I hate wasting bodies...
I've used Automotive Lacquer in the past (from a touch up gun) - but it's hard to get that stuff in CALIF now days.
#4695
whats wrong with the already available rc paints ?? tamiya has a huge selection in spray cans and for airbrush you can get anything you want with parma, createx & spaz stix.