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Old 09-02-2014, 02:42 PM   #5026
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I like it. Only thing I would do differently is hold off on the decals on the sides (the flames are nice so that is what I want to see the most of). Good work.
Jon, in this particular case and unless I'm mistaken, I believe these truly are his sponsors.
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Old 09-02-2014, 03:46 PM   #5027
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Let me put it out there again...

What rattle can color best approximates the blue on the BFG TireBird?

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Old 09-02-2014, 09:46 PM   #5028
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Testors custom lacquer system has a GTS blue that might get pretty close.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:31 PM   #5029
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Regular Tamiya Blue if backed with silver/white may work. Otherwise Tamiya Brilliant Blue backed with black or purple. Brilliant Blue is brighter, regular blue is darker!
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:43 PM   #5030
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I have painted a body with Tamiya blue backed with silver and it's pretty dark. I'll find some scrap and try Pactra Brilliant Blue backed with a couple of different colors. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:43 AM   #5031
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I have painted a body with Tamiya blue backed with silver and it's pretty dark. I'll find some scrap and try Pactra Brilliant Blue backed with a couple of different colors. Thanks for the info.
Pactra (light coat of) candy blue,then Pactra brilliant blue, backed with Pactra white, silver if you want it brighter.....Should be pretty close.... Try it on some lexan scrap.
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:14 AM   #5032
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I don't think that I ever did get around to posting a pic of my vta car. Simple single color paint scheme (with the exception of the chin spoiler). Mixed Faskolor pearl black with Faskolor silver to get charcoal.
I originally painted it with a 4-color scheme, but I didn't like how busy it looked (it took Ady from the awesome style of the Camaro), so I washed off the paint with boiling water and a toothbrush. :P
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:38 PM   #5033
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I bought a j71 body yesterday, and cut it out tonight. After comparing it to the hpi camaro, the camaro doesn't seem as disadvantaged as I had assumed. The nose on both is the same height, and the rear spoiler on both is the same height. The j71 is indeed lighter, but I have not painted it yet, so won't bother reporting their weights until I paint the j71.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:07 AM   #5034
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It gets alot heavier once you add the shoe goo to the front to hold the nose on.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:41 AM   #5035
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It gets alot heavier once you add the shoe goo to the front to hold the nose on.
How difficult is it to remove the nose once it is shoe goo'd on?
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:42 AM   #5036
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How difficult is it to remove the nose once it is shoe goo'd on?
Not sure it's possible without destroying the body and/or paint.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:46 AM   #5037
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How difficult is it to remove the nose once it is shoe goo'd on?
Depends. If you did just a single bead of goo and then used the screws, you should be able to get the nose off without damaging the lexan lip. That lip will be ugly but will be covered up once you put your SECOND nose on.

Re-using the first nose may not be possible.

You did paint the second nose didn't you...?
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:53 AM   #5038
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It tears up the lip on the body pretty good, but there is enough left on to glue the second nose too. IDK why you would want to re-use the first? Also on second nose, put some drywall tape and shoegoo over the seam and it holds really well
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:35 PM   #5039
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I'm not a fan of using drywall tape as it is not structural. I recommend buying the wing-joining fiberglass from the airplane section of the hobby shop.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:13 PM   #5040
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I used fiberglass drywall tape and epoxy to repair my RS4-MT chassis and its at least as strong as the original. In the photo I've used two layers of it with 30 minute epoxy. I've also done several airplane wings with it and never had a failure. All the bodies I've repaired with it using Shoe Goo have held up very well.

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