dodgeboy

iTrader: (1)

so If you can move it an 1/8 so you take some from the front and the rear . You may just need to redo the wheel wells a bit.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I'm hoping not to hog the wheel wells out too much though. The new control arms are supposed to put it right on the dot with no other mods. We'll see.

And thanks for the advice. Right now I have 2 sets of marks on the body for post holes. Set one is the chassis centered as it sits with no mods and some wheel well modification and set two with the front wheels centered waiting for control arms and shims to pull the rear end in and only gapping to the tires to worry about. I've got my fingers crossed for scenario 2.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Got this Camaro body as part of a VTA parts lot in the "For Sale" thread...it was new, but trimmed and painted yellow w/no decals. I think it finished out nicely. Basic, but cool. It's my "Bitchin' Camaro". (we'll see who is old here lol)

The black on the hood is on the outside and it's Tamiya Black (that's what I had on the shelf). It's glossier than the typical hood blackout, but it still looks good.

After I took this pic I came up with a little trick that everyone probably does. After I applied the side window decals I carefully cut around the edge of the "glass" with an x-acto knife and peeled that part off, leaving just the trim. Looked much better.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

My son is fond of the movie Transformers. His will be yellow with black racing stripes on the hood and trunk. Your's looks good!

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

A "simple" VTA body always looks good, like the yellow Camaro above.


I usually cut out the side windows before applying them to the body. I do leave the small side rear seat window intact as it makes applying the decal a bit easier.

I'm sure this is nothing new, but either spray a little Windex on the body or on the adhesive side if the decal (or both) if I have a large or complex decal that I'm going to place. This allows me a chance to pick it up if I place it badly. On small decals (sponsor decals, door handles) I usually just peel and stick.

A normal hair dryer is good when applying the bumper decals or decals that go around a curved surface. I usually use the high setting for a few seconds. A warm/hot decal is easily distorted or stretched, so take some care when manipulating them.

The 2 most overlooked things when applying decals are;

#1 Patience
#2 Little mistakes are hard to notice from the driver stand!

minispeed

iTrader: (14)

here is my parma cuda

robk

iTrader: (22)

dude, did your parents drive it back from the Bahamas?

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Nah -- the Bahamas are islands.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

My parents bought me a bitchin' Camaro, with no insurance to match.
They're good, fine Americans, Stuart, but they don't know what the $%#&!@ are doing to the soil.

There's no smilies with enough glee for that!

dodgeboy

iTrader: (1)

I won Concourse At MIMI's

Micro-Man

And rightfully so.....that was the best paint job out there in concourse...
Great job and Congrats....

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I would have to say that is the best looking body that I have seen from a parma shell.

squarehead

iTrader: (75)

That's because it's a Pegasus Mustang. It IS impossible to make any Parma body look good.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Sad but true!

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Why did I think it was Parma. Does Parma make one of that year model?

I dont think the Parma stuff is That bad. But I will admit that its more than a notch below HPI and Protoform. The parma Alfa TC shell is a nice one. I think all shells have come a long way since Bolink was in its prime with all their antique car shells. OK Im blabbing.