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Old 11-28-2013, 02:08 PM   #4336
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Very nice, Scott. I have a PF Firebird of my own to paint soon.
I've got one of those to do for one of the guys at the track. It is more scale than the McAllister, but the nose is so scale I think it may suffer a bit more from impacts and dents. Both are super cool.
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Old 11-28-2013, 04:44 PM   #4337
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Ive been running the HPI Boss 302 body with pretty good results. Very durable and looks cool with the rear spoiler. Only issue is the front airdam having th be cut off after a few hits to the wall. Other than that the only reason I get other body is for a new paint scheme. I am only on my third body in a year, and I still have the first two for practice bodies. I wish this body would get some more love and/or PF would look at making a mustang body next.
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Old 12-08-2013, 01:04 AM   #4338
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When getting ready to paint, i have seen guys scuff the inside of the body. Is this good to do if your using pactra can paint?
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:13 AM   #4339
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When getting ready to paint, i have seen guys scuff the inside of the body. Is this good to do if your using pactra can paint?
Yes it is. It gives the paint something to stick to. Just be sure to wipe away the dust before painting.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:07 PM   #4340
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Wash the body with a clean washcloth and a few drops of dish detergent. Rinse and the dry with clean cotton towel.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:27 PM   #4341
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I never scuff. Just wash, rinse and dry. NEVER had paint come off.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:04 PM   #4342
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When getting ready to paint, i have seen guys scuff the inside of the body. Is this good to do if your using pactra can paint?
I clean/prep with the green side of a dishwashing sponge, just stay away from the windows. Paint will stick better to a preped surface.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:14 PM   #4343
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This is a McAllister 1970 Trans Am body. I really like these! I'm running one (orange) and its held up really well. (Walls tend to jump out at me sometimes when I'm racing. ) Front end is durable and the rear spoiler is integral with the body. You have to cut your own window masks with these, but that only takes a couple of minutes. They are printed on masking vinyl, just not cut.

Paint is all Faskolor black with chrome silver. I used liquid mask to do the firebird on the hood and cut the design with my trusty X-acto. Numerals will be the racers choice. Indy RC here in Indianapolis makes a really nice number set for VTA cars. Should look pretty mean with VTA brushed wheels and tires!



Looks good. I take it the lexan is nice and thick as is usually the case with their shells? Think I will go this route next time if doing up a Firebird. The PF version looks great but the nose got beat up a little too quick for my liking.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:20 PM   #4344
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Looks good. I take it the lexan is nice and thick as is usually the case with their shells? Think I will go this route next time if doing up a Firebird. The PF version looks great but the nose got beat up a little too quick for my liking.
Yes, the front end of mine had held up really well. Better than most bodies. There's no question that the PF version is more scale, but with scale comes something a little easier to damage.

Even though the McAllister isn't quite as scale, the front end still has a really good look to it I think and no sharp edges (Mustangs) to grab seams or edges of the track.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:30 PM   #4345
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IndyHobbies knows what he speaks. He crash tests that Firebird repeatedly every Friday night.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:52 PM   #4346
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Indy- Great job on the bodies. Super clean...nice detail. Thanks for all the nice comments.

I've been racing RC cars for almost 35 years, I've won a number of national concours events and judged as many too. I've probably painted as many bodies as anybody ever, so I know what it takes to do a good job, but I also know what's needed for racing and what's appropriate for the average racer to get a body painted and survive the rigors of RC racing. Scale proportions are the most important element, distorted bodies just don't do our hobby justice. Too much detail with bumps and grooves just makes a body difficult to mask and paint. The really good painters can make things zing anyway. We form our 190/200mm bodies in .030, the best thickness for performance and durability, in my opinion. Plus all of our bodies are formed one at a time to maintain the best consistency over a formed body.

Thanks for all your support.

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Old 12-09-2013, 08:01 PM   #4347
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Thanks for the awesome bodies, Gary. As someone who has been buying your bodies since 1986, I do appreciate it.

Scott
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Old 12-10-2013, 03:21 PM   #4348
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IndyHobbies knows what he speaks. He crash tests that Firebird repeatedly every Friday night.
Well, I can't argue with that statement!

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Old 12-10-2013, 04:17 PM   #4349
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my first VTA body I finished last night. Thank you for everyone's input, came out pretty damn good for rattle cans I think.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:12 PM   #4350
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Yes, the front end of mine had held up really well. Better than most bodies. There's no question that the PF version is more scale, but with scale comes something a little easier to damage.

Even though the McAllister isn't quite as scale, the front end still has a really good look to it I think and no sharp edges (Mustangs) to grab seams or edges of the track.
It's on my "must try list". I have ran their shells before and was very pleased with how they held up. McAllister is a great company to deal with . One of the places I used to run at had a VTA/Truck-shell class (basically a variation of VTA with the nascar truck bodies instead). We beat the hell out of those shells every weekend and they held up admirably. Funny thing is they actually handles pretty good too... but anyways yeah I gotta' give thumbs up to the products.
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