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Old 03-06-2013, 07:24 PM   #3736
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Even with the backing I like to wait 24 hours to be sure everything is dry and set. You may be able to get away with doing it after the backer is dry if you are in a rush, but I haven't tested that yet.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:32 AM   #3737
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I use Rustoleum's "Crystal Clear" as a backer/sealer but only on bodies for off-road or crawlers where the owner might want to be able to wash them with water. It's stinky stuff, but dries quickly and stays flexible. For on-road cars, I don't use any backer. Once the Faskolor is dry, its water resistant. Hot water will soften it quickly.

The only time I've ever had Shoo Goo pull away paint (slightly) was when I put a lot of shoo goo down at once. As it dried, it contracted and shrunk too much. So, now I put 2-3 layers down with a few hours in between. That works just fine and I've not had paint pull away on any of those cases.

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Old 03-07-2013, 06:38 AM   #3738
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Just finished this HPI '69 Camaro for a buddy who races in the Chicagoland area. So, it should show up soon at Harbor Hobbies.

Its all Faskolor with a faux carbon fiber effect around the induction cowl. Really makes it stand out. Bumpers and window trim are FasChrome.

The red is FasRed but after two coats, I backed it with white before putting a really light coat of black on the inside. That makes a big difference on keeping the red RED. Backing it directly with black would give it a noticeably darker shade.

As discussed, I used Shoo Goo to attach the rear piece to the main body. First just surface to surface gluing and then a day later, I covered the seams with a coat of Shoo Goo. No problems. He'll do his own numbers, etc.

(Added Note: On my work computer, the red looks blotchy. But on my home computer it doesn't. In real life, the red is just a nice even red. No texture effect if that's what you see on your computer. Apparently, some computers don't display red well?)



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Old 03-07-2013, 06:54 AM   #3739
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Looks great! Very, very clean... How do you think the FasChrome compares to the Spaz Stix Chrome? I'd like to try one of them when it comes time to paint another '69 (which hopefully won't be for a while!).
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:11 AM   #3740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
How do you think the FasChrome compares to the Spaz Stix Chrome?
Thanks on the body.

The Spaz Stik Chrome, if applied properly, is a true Chrome look. Mirror finish type result.

http://www.spazstix.com/mirror-chrome

The FasChrome is much more shiny than their normal silver paint, but still granular looking. Still, I like it better because its easy to apply and matches the matt finish 5-spoke wheels really well.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:17 AM   #3741
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Quote:
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How do you think the FasChrome compares to the Spaz Stix Chrome?
the spaxstix chrome seems pretty nice, but test it first.
i just ruined what started out pretty nice. spazstix candy red backed with spazstix chrome. it looked nice, but i wanted to reinforce the backing, so i grabbed a can of tamiya silver. big mistake, the silver blew right thru the chrome and into the red, now its metallic pink.
then i read the spazstix website instructions which reccomend backing with water based black.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:58 AM   #3742
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i just ruined what started out pretty nice.
I've never tried it, but always wondered if you could use one of the commercial paint strippers to just take the body back to clear. My concern of course would be that it would affect the lexan. But, that would be easy enough to test first.

Then, you'd get a do-over!
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:42 AM   #3743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
I've never tried it, but always wondered if you could use one of the commercial paint strippers to just take the body back to clear. My concern of course would be that it would affect the lexan. But, that would be easy enough to test first.

Then, you'd get a do-over!

See the attached youtube video using DOT 4 brake fluid to remove paint. Works great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=085nJyj4TBM
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:47 AM   #3744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
I use Rustoleum's "Crystal Clear" as a backer/sealer but only on bodies for off-road or crawlers where the owner might want to be able to wash them with water. It's stinky stuff, but dries quickly and stays flexible. For on-road cars, I don't use any backer. Once the Faskolor is dry, its water resistant. Hot water will soften it quickly.

The only time I've ever had Shoo Goo pull away paint (slightly) was when I put a lot of shoo goo down at once. As it dried, it contracted and shrunk too much. So, now I put 2-3 layers down with a few hours in between. That works just fine and I've not had paint pull away on any of those cases.

Just a heads up indy; many have had issues with the clear causing problems wrinkling and eating the paint. Most use the white as it has had fewer reported problems. As to the shoo-goo allow any painted shell afew days to cure and this is most imprortant if you or your painter has used a backer like the rustoleum. The shoo goo will react badly with uncured rustoleum, dont ask how I know this.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:03 AM   #3745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Just a heads up indy; many have had issues with the clear causing problems wrinkling and eating the paint. Most use the white as it has had fewer reported problems. As to the shoo-goo allow any painted shell afew days to cure and this is most imprortant if you or your painter has used a backer like the rustoleum. The shoo goo will react badly with uncured rustoleum, dont ask how I know this.
Hey Chris,

I've painted dozens of off-road bodies and used the Rustoleum CC paint over Faskolor and ever experienced that. Wonder if they are putting it on really thick or something? Maybe using it on paint other than Faskolor? I'm limiting my suggestion to using it with Parma Faskolor. Its all I use to airbrush. When I do use Rustoleum Crystal Clear, I use two light coats each time.

I have seen interactions between Faskolor and primers. I think primers are such different animals, that there can be a problem there.
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Last edited by IndyHobbies.com; 03-07-2013 at 11:49 AM. Reason: I forgot, RCTECH does not like links...removed.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:55 PM   #3746
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Heres my latest body, on an Associated TC 6.1.[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:55 AM   #3747
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Hello :-) Am Alessandro from ITALY I didnt find a thread for allow new members to say a quick Hi, so i chosen this one, also cause i saw very nice jobs on painting bodies, am waiting from USA my brand new HPI sprint 2 flux Mustang body fitted...

I have a question: how many dollars could cost a painted body 1/10th as the ones i see here???
I would also make compliments for the well done site to administrators and members for top jobs.. saying that, hope i didnt break any rule...
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:56 AM   #3748
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Hello :-) Am Alessandro from ITALY I didnt find a thread for allow new members to say a quick Hi, so i chosen this one, also cause i saw very nice jobs on painting bodies, am waiting from USA my brand new HPI sprint 2 flux Mustang body fitted...

I have a question: how many dollars could cost a painted body 1/10th as the ones i see here???
I would also make compliments for the well done site to administrators and members for top jobs.. saying that, hope i didnt break any rule...
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:19 AM   #3749
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my new body, for the first french race !



just mount the wing and it's ok !
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:46 AM   #3750
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A little Eddie Vanhalen for ya. It's not period correct, but was fun to paint.
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