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Old 06-10-2012, 09:59 AM   #3061
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Thanks, I guess I'm somewhat impatient- Russ
Russ and All concerned.

Yes, i am still making decals.

I have been on vacation for the past week visiting the Mouse House in Florida.

In order to enjoy the week, I didn't want to take a laptop along.

I will be answering all e-mails, private messages and any other previous decal requests today.

Carl
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:02 AM   #3062
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I'm a newb with painting but this looks close to the Grabber Blue I'm looking for my HPI Mustang body. Would you just start mixing in a little black to darken it or is there something else I should do?

Here was my attempt at a Grabber Blue Boss Mustang. can't tell you exactly on the color mix cause I had my brother paint it. I think that was the best color for those Mustangs. It looks dark in the pics but is really alot brighter in person.


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Old 06-10-2012, 01:40 PM   #3063
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My new 68 camaro
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:14 PM   #3064
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Took me a while fighting stickers so I lost daylight. Took some quick pics but I'll definitely get better ones soon!



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Old 06-10-2012, 11:38 PM   #3065
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Default VTA from down under

Hi all
vta style racing down under has slightly different rules than in the US, but equally as fun
heres my latest
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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]-img_1206.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]-img_1207.jpg  
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:27 PM   #3066
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Default First Attempt at Grabber Blue

I tried using the Parma FASKYBLUE - #40012 and slowly adding FASBLACK - #40001. This turned out horrible and was more of a grayish blue. So I then tried FASBLUE - #40004 and slowly added FASWHITE - #40000. I kept adding a couple drops of white, mixed and placed a dot on a piece of white paper until I got the following result. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it but I lost count of the number of drops of white paint. I guess it doesn't matter because I never measured the amount of blue. Next time I'll be more scientific...Promise!
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:43 PM   #3067
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Is this anything like what you guys are looking for? Aside from mixing it yourself with faskolor or Createx Wicked air.

Testors Custom Lacquer system
Big Bad Blue (AMC) Auto Lacquer - 3 oz. Spray Can
SKU# 28127
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:31 PM   #3068
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post


Is this anything like what you guys are looking for? Aside from mixing it yourself with faskolor or Createx Wicked air.

Testors Custom Lacquer system
Big Bad Blue (AMC) Auto Lacquer - 3 oz. Spray Can
SKU# 28127
I tried that type of paint before (I used Go Mango Orange) and it doesn't stick to lexan well. They have several colors that are good matches for classic car colors but it flaked off pretty easily. Might be a way to back it or scuff the lexan really hard before painting and make it work. But, the normal light scuff, wash and spray the paint didn't cut it.

Tamiya Light Blue PS-3 is a pretty close match to Ford Grabber Blue.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #3069
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post


Is this anything like what you guys are looking for? Aside from mixing it yourself with faskolor or Createx Wicked air.

Testors Custom Lacquer system
Big Bad Blue (AMC) Auto Lacquer - 3 oz. Spray Can
SKU# 28127
Yep, same thing. Testors doesn't stick well, so we need to make our own I guess.

So, what is a good way to take care of the holes in the body? I have heard epoxy and decals. Any other ideas?
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #3070
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Yep, same thing. Testors doesn't stick well, so we need to make our own I guess.

So, what is a good way to take care of the holes in the body? I have heard epoxy and decals. Any other ideas?
Since the outside of the lexan is your finished surface and the paint is on the inside there is no good way to get rid of holes or any surface imperfections. Any technique would be extremely time consuming and probably would result in just a slightly less noticeable imperfections. If you really want to mess with it heating and stretching the lexan back to a perfectly smooth surface is probably the only way you could get a 100% perfect surface. For a good enough surface I would try testors window glue. It dries completely clear and can be smoothed pretty easily. I have actually made very small windows with the stuff. Not sure about durability though.

You could of course paint the outside of the body in a base coat clear coat format. Then hog could use what ever filler you want but you would end up with a very heavy body.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:35 PM   #3071
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You guys aren't using the Testors Model enamel are you? Because that stuff really won't stick. It will flake away like bad dandruff the first time you hit something. The lacquer should stick just as well as Pactra. It might even be the same stuff.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:53 PM   #3072
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You guys aren't using the Testors Model enamel are you? Because that stuff really won't stick. It will flake away like bad dandruff the first time you hit something. The lacquer should stick just as well as Pactra. It might even be the same stuff.
It won't. It really needs a primer to stick to just about anything. The paint itself has really poor adhesion to any smooth surface. Not just testors but any lacquer paint. The primer sticks to the surface and the paint to the primer. It gets more complicated when painting metal which requires an etching primer first then a standard primer but that's for a different forum.

Another difficulty is the flexibility. Even if something will stick it still has to withstand the vibration and flexing from impacts that our bodies endure. Lexan paint is a special formula that can adhere without crazing the surface and will flex to extreme degrees. I don't know of any other paint that can do that. Your best bet for custom colors is to mix it yourself It may take time and patience but it can be a lot of fun and very satisfying when you finally get the mix right.
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:59 PM   #3073
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i painted a hpi cuda with testors one coat lacquer and it held up great.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:15 PM   #3074
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i painted a hpi cuda with testors one coat lacquer and it held up great.
Had a friend use it, against my advice, on a 66 mustang. Threw the body out after two races because it had flaked so much.

If the paint is hot enough to craze the surface and actually stick then you run the risk of damaging the lexan. This can cause the finish to appear fuzzy or even dull in severe cases. Lacquer does not like to stick to smooth surfaces so unless you prime the surface or sand it to give it some bite the paint will flake. It would be a risk to use laquer paint on a rc lexan body. Maybe you will get lucky but chances are your project will end up ruined.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:56 AM   #3075
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i painted a hpi cuda with testors one coat lacquer and it held up great.
+1. Beat the hell out of it, too. Body gave up LONG before any paint even thought about giving up. All that I did was to scuff the body well with a green pad and wash/dry before painting.

Think several thin, light coats!
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