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Old 03-05-2011, 02:59 PM   #1936
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The regular airbrush paints can be found at a lot of Craft / Art Stores: United Art Education, Hobby Lobby, etc. They are pretty much the standard. And cheaper than the Parma stuff, which is just re-badged.
I did find Createx paints at Hobby Lobby. So they are nice and flexible, just like Parma Faskolor? I know the bottles look the same, but I wasn't sure if the paint was the same. Faskolor says, "its specially formulated for lexan bodies." So you are saying that's just marketing BS?

I'd like to try them. They have colors that Parma doesn't. But, I don't want to waste a body and find out they don't work properly. Price is about the same $4.49 a bottle at Hobby Lobby for Createx. I think Faskolor is about the same at Hobbytown.
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:03 PM   #1937
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Parma FasKolor, Createx and AutoAir are all the same water-based paints from the same company. If you call them and ask AutoAir if they are all the same, they tell you no, but they ALL work on Lexan without issue.
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:21 PM   #1938
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Do the Createx paints need to backed with a darker or light color like Pactra paints ETC.?

Is body prep the same, wash, sand/scuff inside, dry, then shoot?

I can't use my airbrush anymore because my figures go numb and I can't feel the brush in my hand, can I just use a paint brush and paint it on by hand?
It sucks too, because I was getting really good at using it when I used to build models heavily.
Lynn
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:09 PM   #1939
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Do the Createx paints need to backed with a darker or light color like Pactra paints ETC.?
You mean, fluorescents and candies? Yes, they all need to be backed, regardless of the brand of paint.


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Is body prep the same, wash, sand/scuff inside, dry, then shoot?
Washing with dish soap is CRUCIAL to clean paint jobs. Scuffing, not so much. I have been painting cars since 1984 and rarely scuff a body. Unless I'm looking for a specific texture on a candy, scuffing is completely unnecessary.


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I can't use my airbrush anymore because my figures go numb and I can't feel the brush in my hand, can I just use a paint brush and paint it on by hand?
I wouldn't recommend brushing it on. A spray can is still probably your best bet if you are not using an airbrush.
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:56 PM   #1940
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Cobraman I wonder if you could use a full trigger airbrush without your fingers going numb. I wonder if there is a place that would let you try one. Maybe rent it.



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Old 03-05-2011, 07:21 PM   #1941
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Parma FasKolor, Createx and AutoAir are all the same water-based paints from the same company. If you call them and ask AutoAir if they are all the same, they tell you no, but they ALL work on Lexan without issue.
I squirted T shirts when I was in college using mostly Createx. I was elated when I discovered that there was little difference if any between the Faskolor and my bucket of colors of Createx. I have read somewhere that Createx helped Parma develop faskolor and that it is based on their paints. I personally cant tell a diff. One sprays and sticks as good as another. Maybe there is an adhesion promoter in the Faskolor IDK.

As for the auto air I can remember when Createx came out with auto air and at least for a while Auto Air still had the Createx name on the bottle. I think for a while before that if you were going to paint a hard surface with Createx then you were supposed to add something to the paint. A catalyst, adhesion promoter, I dont know what it was.
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:52 PM   #1942
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I've got one of those Model Master things that you attach to an air in the can and you attach paint bottles to it and spray, I may have to dig that thing out.

What is the mix ratio for spraying Createx?
Lynn
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:17 PM   #1943
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What is the mix ratio for spraying Createx
Generally 1:1 paint to reducer (I use clear automotive window cleaner), though some paints need to go 2:1. It honestly depends on the color—some paints can be sprayed on thicker than others. Not a good answer, I know, but I do it by feel in a mixing cup and then see how it sprays. Air pressure out of the compressor, air temp and humidity are all factors, too.
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:43 PM   #1944
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Hmmmm.... I have always sprayed Createx straight, but now that I hear you are splitting it with one part to one part clear windex, I may have to try it that way. What does it do to change the feel? Does it allow you to spray thinner coats?
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:50 PM   #1945
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Yeah, Createx/Faskolor/AutoAir all need to be reduced to spray properly. Shooting with them unreduced, and you'd need to have so much air pressure that you'd be blowing away a lot of paint, and probably not getting a real good finish. I'm surprised you aren't spraying a lot of cobwebs and dust onto the body.

Remember, water based paints need a lot of thin, light coats for best coverage. They are exactly the opposite of old school lacquer finishes.

You can use cheap clear automotive spray window cleaner as thinner and cleaner—it works perfectly and is virtually identical to the Parma Faskolor cleaners at 1/10th of the cost. I mix my own by the gallon, too—it's essentially water + isopropyl alcohol + liquid dish soap mixed in a specific ratio.

The only paints I shoot on the thicker side are fluorescents, but they go on like candies anyway, so it's a long, slow process to build up proper color without putting really thick coats on the masking.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:15 PM   #1946
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Generally 1:1 paint to reducer (I use clear automotive window cleaner), though some paints need to go 2:1. It honestly depends on the color—some paints can be sprayed on thicker than others. Not a good answer, I know, but I do it by feel in a mixing cup and then see how it sprays. Air pressure out of the compressor, air temp and humidity are all factors, too.
Thanks for the info!
What kind/brand of auto window cleaner do you use? I haven't found a clear one.

Lynn
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:29 PM   #1947
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Thanks for the info!
What kind/brand of auto window cleaner do you use? I haven't found a clear one.
I have found many auto parts store chains (Autozone, O'Reilly, etc.) have a generic house brand, as well as places like Target or Walmart. The cheaper the better, and make sure it does not contain vinegar.
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:17 PM   #1948
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Originally Posted by squarehead View Post
Yeah, Createx/Faskolor/AutoAir all need to be reduced to spray properly. Shooting with them unreduced, and you'd need to have so much air pressure that you'd be blowing away a lot of paint, and probably not getting a real good finish. I'm surprised you aren't spraying a lot of cobwebs and dust onto the body.

Remember, water based paints need a lot of thin, light coats for best coverage. They are exactly the opposite of old school lacquer finishes.

You can use cheap clear automotive spray window cleaner as thinner and cleaner—it works perfectly and is virtually identical to the Parma Faskolor cleaners at 1/10th of the cost. I mix my own by the gallon, too—it's essentially water + isopropyl alcohol + liquid dish soap mixed in a specific ratio.

The only paints I shoot on the thicker side are fluorescents, but they go on like candies anyway, so it's a long, slow process to build up proper color without putting really thick coats on the masking.
I use faskolor all the time. Never thinned it out and it always sprays fine 35-50 psi.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:55 PM   #1949
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:56 PM   #1950
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My understanding of Createx/Faskolor/AutoAir is that they are all the same, except that Faskolor has a flex agent in it to prevent cracking. I have used all three for a long time, I have not found any difference except that Createx is available at craft stores.
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