U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
#632
Just finished my Camaro for the Novak Race, here are some pics:
#635
ARRRGGGG!!!!,
I finished my first VTA body and I was pretty proud of it.. I've airbrushed a fair number of 1/12 and TC bodies, but opted to shoot Testors "Model Masters" lacquer (aerosol can) for the vintage colors..
Anyhow, Paragon tire sauce ate right through it!!! Completely removed the paint where the sauce got slung from the tires..
As a test, I tried some House of Kolor Lacquer, and it seems to have the same issue with the tire sauce.
Looking for help... What do I use as a backing that will protect the paint???
I finished my first VTA body and I was pretty proud of it.. I've airbrushed a fair number of 1/12 and TC bodies, but opted to shoot Testors "Model Masters" lacquer (aerosol can) for the vintage colors..
Anyhow, Paragon tire sauce ate right through it!!! Completely removed the paint where the sauce got slung from the tires..
As a test, I tried some House of Kolor Lacquer, and it seems to have the same issue with the tire sauce.
Looking for help... What do I use as a backing that will protect the paint???
#636
#637
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I've backed the Model Masters rattle can paint with the Pactra rattle can paint made for lexan bodies. The Pactra paints are fuel resistant and should help with problems from tire sauce being sprayed off the tires onto the body. I would suggest wiping down tires though since many traction compounds can eat through lexan (such as the clear windows).
If you are going to use the Model Masters paints (for color selection), take some extra time to prep your body. The paint doesn't seem to bond the same to lexan like the Pactra paint. It is also not as scratch resistant. I'm usually too lazy to scuff up the inside of my bodies before I paint them, so I'm not sure if that would help. I mainly just clean out the bodies with liquid dish soap.
Another thing to be aware of with the Model Masters paint is that it doesn't react well to Shoe Goo. If you apply Shoe Goo directly to the paint it will cause some discoloration. I'm not sure if a good backing of Pactra would help.
Overall I've been very happy with this paint as it has held up to the abuse I give it on the track. I have destroyed the front ends of my bodies before having any real issues with the paint job.
If you are going to use the Model Masters paints (for color selection), take some extra time to prep your body. The paint doesn't seem to bond the same to lexan like the Pactra paint. It is also not as scratch resistant. I'm usually too lazy to scuff up the inside of my bodies before I paint them, so I'm not sure if that would help. I mainly just clean out the bodies with liquid dish soap.
Another thing to be aware of with the Model Masters paint is that it doesn't react well to Shoe Goo. If you apply Shoe Goo directly to the paint it will cause some discoloration. I'm not sure if a good backing of Pactra would help.
Overall I've been very happy with this paint as it has held up to the abuse I give it on the track. I have destroyed the front ends of my bodies before having any real issues with the paint job.
#638
Thanks for the info..
I've backed the Model Masters rattle can paint with the Pactra rattle can paint made for lexan bodies. The Pactra paints are fuel resistant and should help with problems from tire sauce being sprayed off the tires onto the body. I would suggest wiping down tires though since many traction compounds can eat through lexan (such as the clear windows).
If you are going to use the Model Masters paints (for color selection), take some extra time to prep your body. The paint doesn't seem to bond the same to lexan like the Pactra paint. It is also not as scratch resistant. I'm usually too lazy to scuff up the inside of my bodies before I paint them, so I'm not sure if that would help. I mainly just clean out the bodies with liquid dish soap.
Another thing to be aware of with the Model Masters paint is that it doesn't react well to Shoe Goo. If you apply Shoe Goo directly to the paint it will cause some discoloration. I'm not sure if a good backing of Pactra would help.
Overall I've been very happy with this paint as it has held up to the abuse I give it on the track. I have destroyed the front ends of my bodies before having any real issues with the paint job.
If you are going to use the Model Masters paints (for color selection), take some extra time to prep your body. The paint doesn't seem to bond the same to lexan like the Pactra paint. It is also not as scratch resistant. I'm usually too lazy to scuff up the inside of my bodies before I paint them, so I'm not sure if that would help. I mainly just clean out the bodies with liquid dish soap.
Another thing to be aware of with the Model Masters paint is that it doesn't react well to Shoe Goo. If you apply Shoe Goo directly to the paint it will cause some discoloration. I'm not sure if a good backing of Pactra would help.
Overall I've been very happy with this paint as it has held up to the abuse I give it on the track. I have destroyed the front ends of my bodies before having any real issues with the paint job.
#639
What brand/color is anyone using for Mopar sublime green? What about the flat black hood, or are you just using gloss for that?
Thanks
Thanks
#640
#642
Tech Elite
iTrader: (75)
Testors Model Master Lacquer System Limelight Green.
Paint the flat black on the outside of the body to keep it flat. Parma FasKolor, Krylon flat black or any lacquer flat black should work well.
Paint the flat black on the outside of the body to keep it flat. Parma FasKolor, Krylon flat black or any lacquer flat black should work well.
#643
Would't it scratch easily though.
#644
What did you back the green with so it would stay on the lexan and not get eaten by shoe-goo and tire compound?
#645
As someone else suggested earlier in this thread, back it with Pactra aerosol paint. Pactra seems to be very "fuel proof" (I did some testing).
ps- I also talked to the folks at House of Kolor for about 20 minutes and bottom line was they don't have anything that will protect the paintjob from fuel/shoogoo/tireSauce that won't crack when flexed.