mild seven

iTrader: (63)

I think there is just the F103RM with M body or T Body

aussierevo

iTrader: (14)

just a question for the guy's running brushless combo's in your RM..........is brushless a bit of overkill for this car

I've been reading a bit on the mini thread about the hobbywing systems. Seem to get some good reviews and well priced, but would it make the RM to much of a monster. They say they are closely matched to a black can, whihc would be ok. What be be the limit of a brushless motor you could install.

link below is the system I'm thinking of.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...?cPath=293_946

DucatiGary

revo - i have a brushless kit coming for another car (hopefully today) i might try it out and see what its like in the RM

i have a 10 turn transpeed MS motor on it at the moment with ko propo vfs ESC and id be suprised if it is any faster with the brushless kit.

only problem ive had so far is the spur gear only lasts 3 batteries then its duff, i would love to find a supplier of extra tough 94tooth spur gears . . . . . . .

i guess with brushless it will be similar wear although id be suprised if its any faster.

ive not raced it yet, was going to run it this friday but need a new spur gear already

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

I tried a brushless system in my RM at first. Problem was the ESC's are usually very large for the electronics area, second depending on which esc you have 3-12g wires are hard to tuck inside the body, lastly the motors usually have the solder tabs sticking up hitting the rear of the body. I tried to cut out the body so they would not hit, but then it looked totally hacked. I ended up going to a LRP quantum brushed ESC and black can motor. Its pleanty fast for me, and those sealed can motors might as well be brushless, they take a long time to wear out. If you need a really inexpensive ESC try Associated Electronics on Ebay, the have some for $35, and a quantum for $49. I bought 3 of them and they all were NIB.

Tommi Makkinen

iTrader: (28)

@over gear,

here's a lineup of all the F-103 chassis released by Tamiya...


F-103 - the standard chassis... (Sauber C12, Ferrari 412T1)
F-103L - long wheelbase version (+1 inch) for Indy Bodies (Newman Haas Lola Ford, Rahal Hogan Lola Honda)
F-103RS - with some hop ups (chassis only)
F-103RX - with a few more hop-ups (chassis only)
F-103LM - with wide plate main chassis and LeMans body (Toyota GT-one, Audi R8R)
F-103LM TRF - wide plate main chassis with max hopups (chassis only)
F-103GT - standard chassis with parts to use touring car tires (chassis only, Courage LC70 Mugen)
F-103RM - basically an evolution of the F-103RX (M-type, T-type)
F-103R - the anniversary version


maybe i might have one or two missed but more or less this is the releases of Tamiya for the 103...

drbelleville

iTrader: (13)

You see the Aluminum Standoff / Bulkheads on the F103 R, you used to be able to get those in plastic many years ago which eliminated the whole "Battery Box". The plastic Bulkheads were Japan Only though.

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

I just picked up my F103RM. Will start building it later today.

A few questions though:
-In the manual, they say to double side tape the tires to the rims. Should I glue them also?

-How should I go about painting the body? Paint then cut or cut then paint? Also, it looks like they dont include many stickers for the body. I bought a can of red Tamiya paint for the body. Will it be mostly red since there arent alot of stickers?

-Also, any pointers on building this kit? Any tips?

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

Just cut them down and tape the battery in.

Mark

quick5pnt0

iTrader: (8)

Tires: Definitely only do one or the other, not both. When I had my F103 many years ago I used the double sided tape and never had a problem with the tires coming loose. Some people opt to use the tried/true method of gluing them, its just a personal preference. I'd suggest that if you are going to glue them don't use the old school method of using contact cement and dipping them in laquer thinner because I believe the Tamiya wheels will melt in the thinner.

Paint: Some do it one way, others do it the other way. My personal preference is to cut the body out first and then paint it. The reason I do it that way is because I've found that if I paint first I wind up scratching the paint when cutting it out. Just make sure you cover the other side of the body with something so it doesn't get overspray on it.

Tommi Makkinen

iTrader: (28)

you can use the thin double sided tape provided in the kit. its strong enough to hold the tire to the rim. but if you wish to glue it with rubber contact cement, thats acceptable. just dont use the tape.

im assuming you have the High-nose M-type body. the included silver color stickers will give it some balance over the all red finish.

i suggest you paint the body first before cutting it. since the cut lines on the body are clearly seen even if painted over. the F-1 bodies of tamiya strangely have no overspray film on it. so the excess lexan on the body will shield the body from the worst of the overspray... otherwise as a precaution, use cling wrap on the outside of the body to protect it from overspray.

just pay close attention to assembling the differential and the thrust bearing assembly in the right rear tire. the rest of the kit is a snap to build...


hope this helps

Foxxrocket

Double side tape. No mess

Paint and cut is the easiest, but its mostly a preference thing.

Your car will be red if you paint it red. The decals just add flavor to the body.



Just fallow the instructions.

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

My method is to paint first, cut later. I wash it first, then wrap the whole outside with plastic cling wrap to keep the overspray off. After she dries from painting, I use a very sharp Exacto knife and trace along the cut out lines, or score it, then I simply fold over the excess lexan and it breaks off cleanly on the lines. Scissors are only needed to make the pieces I'm breaking off a little smaller instead of one huge piece. This really works well on the nose of these bodies where you have to trim out for suspension arm clearance.

over gear

iTrader: (18)

WOW! thanks! i didn't know there are so many version of F103.

over gear

iTrader: (18)

What is M-type and T-type body? anyone got a pix of them?

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

One thing that I dont think was mentioned, if you use the tape, you can reuse the rims. When the foams are no longer good, slice them with an xacto, and peel the tire off. then the tape comes off real easy , I dont believe that you even need motor spray except to prep for the new tire tape

Paint first trim later, body is too flimsy to mask and decal after it has been trimmed