SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php
http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?osC...gd7c3n4lpqg5q6

hairy

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info,it was the computer acting up that would not let me browse.

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

More bodies and decals here also
http://d-drivesportsenglish.com/inde...=index&cPath=2

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

I know very little about the F103 Chasis except that I love them, and have to have an open wheeler.
A class has started and I have been marshalling them for the last couple of meets.

A few days ago I purchased a second hand F103GT.

The car appears to be almost entirely 3-Racing parts, excepting the front suspension arms,
a few plastic parts. shafts. and pins. It has the Tamiya Shock.

Ive realised I need different hubs and have ordered:

3racing 3R-F103RM-01 Differential Housing
3racing 3R-F103RM-09 Front Knuckles
Tamiya 50388 Diff Ball and Plate Set
And a set of TRG Rubber.

I have been unable to determine, which bag or sprue from the
RM kit I need to buy to get the RM body posts.
Can anyone please advise me the PN#?

I have located manuals for the GT and the LM, and an exploded diagram of the RM.
Can anyone point me at a link to an RM manual?

Kevin

quick5pnt0

iTrader: (8)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4974508-post635.html

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

D-Drive Sports has the F103RM,F103GT,HPI Super F1,Corally F1 and Cross CF01-08 manuals linked at the bottom of thier home page.
http://www.d-drivesportsenglish.com/

The "D" parts tree is what you need for the body mounts for front and rear.

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the manual links.

I have read about a long wheel base F103-L is the wheelbase the same between the other variants? RM GT ? Which variant was the indy car?


Kevin

quick5pnt0

iTrader: (8)

I believe that F103-L was the indy car chassis.

RaceBucks

iTrader: (6)

F103RM diff question:

Why does the RM put the diff’s thrust bearing and cone washers into the right wheel? This makes no sense. So as the tire wears and I flip the tire from one side to another, or I switch out tires, I have to take apart the wheel hub and move the thrust bearing and cone washers into another wheel?

This can’t be right; pan cars for years have figured out how to bolt the wheels straight on. The F103GT doesn’t have this issue; why did Tamiya do this? Is there an upgrade option that fixes this?

Man, is this a strange design!

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

If memory serves me right, the F103RS, RX, RM, GT, and R are all 260mm wheelbase.

The F103L is the "Indy" car chassis and it has a 280mm wheelbase.

414MPH

iTrader: (8)

Relax, this is no big deal. The diff is very easy to adjust and only needs attention when changing wheels/tires in the rear. Any other design would weigh more and cause handling annomalies like it did on the F-103GT.

Just try it, you will like it! I ran this for years with no hasle or issues in the past.

Marty

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

yes the 103L is the Indycar. I am currently finishing up a Rahal Hogan Motorola car that will be for sale, probably by the end of the weekend

robk

iTrader: (22)

They could have just made it like a 1/12 car. It is what it is...

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

Both Tech and Kawada make a diff where you can change the wheels with out adjusting the diff.
http://d-drivesportsenglish.com/inde...roducts_id=234
But it really inst that hard to swap tires with the stock system.

kavadni

iTrader: (1)

I am wondering what the pros and cons of the two mechanism for joining the front and rear;
'pivot balls' or 'washer and o-ring'; my car has washer and o-ring.

Also I've read the suggestion - remove the plastic battery holders and use tape instead.
I am a little concerned about my lipos getting damaged .. opinions?

Kevin