Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Guys,


Im starting on the stock world of electric touring with a TC4, and now i have to buy motor and speed control.

In the club where i will be racing, you can use 27t brushed motors or equivalent in brushless.

Now, price wise and performance wise, its the PRO 13.5 novak brushless a lot more powerfull than the sport version ?

thanks,

NovakTwo

If you plan to race, you need the SS13.5 Pro motor with sintered rotor.

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

you got a pm

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

13.5 is not the equivelant of 27T- 17.5 is. Check with your track. If 13.5 is allowed with stock, then go with it.

The 13.5 SS should have the sintered rotor, but there are a lot of old ones floating around- you can feel the difference between bonded and sintered.

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

I agree -- 13.5 PRO is the only way to go...

I found out the hard way -- my first brushless was a 13.5SS (like the Sport/EX version now) with the bonded rotor. I thought I'd save some money and try it... BAD MOVE... If you gear it up to be competitive, the motor gets hot and kills the bonded rotor and you start to get thermal shut downs, etc... the only cure is to replace the bonded rotor and endbell with the sintered rotor conversion...

So I ended up spending significantly more money to end up with the same thing as a 'pro', which I should have bought in the first place...

Save money by spending a bit more up front -- go with the Pro with it's sintered rotor....

jontang001

Hi
How do I know the rotor is bonded or sintered?
How they feel like? Different power output or different handling?
Thanks for the comming answer!!!

Deznuts05

iTrader: (14)

the motor will be labeled 13.5 ss this is only for novak.

from my understanding Hacker motors have all sinstered rotors

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

The bonded rotor has a 2-pole black magnet on it. The sintered rotor will have a shiny nickel finish. Like TFrahm said, the diffrence is performance. You can gear the sintered much higher for more power

I made a similar mistake when I bought in. I got a remanufactured 13.5, but couldn't run the same gear as everyone else at my track. Turned out they were all running sintered and mine was bonded. After I changed over, I could clear every jump that I was falling short of.

rockstar81

iTrader: (5)

SS13.5 Pro all the way.

tfrahm

iTrader: (2)

For Novak motors, you don't have to take them apart for a visual inspection of the rotor -- you can feel the difference. When you spin the rotor by hand on an assembled motor, the bonded rotor spins so free it feels like there's no magnets in there at all (well - almost...)... With a sintered rotor, the motor has a "notchy" feel almost like a brushed motor - as you turn the rotor, you really feel the magnets "thunk" from one pole to the next...

Also, in general, Novak motors with bonded rotors have a small 1/8" ID bearing on the output end -- sintered rotors have a larger bearing that is easy to spot... I don't know about the other brands...

Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

If your going to be buying a new motor then definately go with the 13.5SS motor.

I bought a used XBR 13.5 system for my 12th scale and ended up buying a Sintered Rotor conversion just to be on the safe side.

I love how my Sintered EX 13.5 motor performs! But like I said if your looking to get a new motor go with the 13.5SS or equivalent from other manufactures.