2wdrive

just curious, is there a real difference in characteristcs when using long links or short side links?

The 4th one you really don't want to use. The rest is up to preference of the individual driver. I have seen drivers win with all the first 3 setups.

V12

iTrader: (1)

I have not tried this for myself but heard this from an other driver who knows what he does. It seems there is not very much difference but the longer links calm the car down a little.

Tuner EM

Regarding the 7.4 pack in 10R5.

I run the 1st option where the center shock mount is moved left but this is with a light 2400 spec pack. I need about 70 gram on the left side of the chassis to balance things. I plan to reduce this at some point by re-drilling the servo mount holes to install the servo on the other side (heavy end of servo on left).

If I was to run a heavier 4000-5000 mah pack I would try your 3rd option. Battery in middle of car with slight offset to right with top deck. I would redrill the servo mount to install it on the other side to help balance the car. or simply put the battery on the left side, electronics on the right running the wires between the bulkhead and motor. I would also consider milling the chassis to lower the battery.

option 4 would probably move weight to far forward which would not work on asphalt.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to V12, 2wdrive and Tuner EM!

I try use option 1st and 2nd.

Also think about mod by Dave Beeby but must find some time for my 10R5 chassi s

Thanks for help and advice
m.

TimNJ

iTrader: (50)

Hi guys,
I posted this on the Tekin thread, but haven't gotten an answer yet, so I thought I'd post it here and see if any of you had any ideas.

My local club is going to be running what I would call a "hybrid" of the World GT class and I have some questions. I'll be running a 10R5 with the Tekin RS and Redline 10.5 motor on 1S lipo with the additional 3.58 oz. lipo weight.

I know it's comparing apples to oranges, but I've found the perfect rollout in my 12R5 with the RS/Redline 13.5 and 1S lipo to be right around 87.40mm on this particular track.

So with all of that said, can anyone give me an idea on a rollout with the 10R5/1S/RS/10.5 combo just to get me in the ballpark?

I was thinking somewhere in the high 70s to low 80s range, but I have no idea when it comes to a 1/10 pan car with a 10.5 on 1S. TIA

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm using different equipment, LRP, but I ran my car at 65mm with a 10.5t. I haven't raced against any big competition yet but I think it is a good starting ballpark.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I would think 70-80 would be too high to start for a WGT 10.5. I've been running much lower rollouts with the V200 in the Tekin than without. I rollout my 13.5 12th scale on a fairly large track between 70 and 80 mm. I would try a 55 mm to start and move up if temps allowed and the car gets faster.

TimNJ

iTrader: (50)

Thanks, Sean & Andrew. I'll split the difference and try 60mm for starters.

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I choose Dave Beeby update option (Very nice job!)

It was the simple way for lipo for me.
Will show pics when do rebuild for GM Lipo and GM 50 ESC.

Regards!

m.

Brian Searles

What is a good starting point on pinion/spur on a RC12R5 running 17.5 bl and/or 27T brushed, 4 cell Nimh, and a small carpet track?

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

Anyone use the AE Factory Team car carrier bag (SP418) to haul their car with body? Just wondering if they fit....

Thank yous.....

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

10R5-Epic DUO 2 13.5-Reedy 1s (when they come out)-

What ESC? Want to run the SPX but read something about the low voltage of the 1 s won't allow the boost to kick in...

Opinions???

mkdut

iTrader: (19)

The car with the body on it will fit with no issues.

Kave

iTrader: (17)

Hrm, this is really interesting. Anyone know if there is any truth to it?

Brian Searles

Anyone??