John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

the set screw threads directly into these. The metal 4-40 threaded insert that normally holds the spring is deleted.

hippie

iTrader: (20)

Thank's

I could not tell by looking at the new retainer . The hole in the new retainer looks bigger than 4/40 . Thats why i asked .

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

That was also my first thought. I installed them yesterday and i wish i had sooner. Now when i wanna change a tweak spring i wont think twice
The spring goes on smooth and easy.

hippie

iTrader: (20)

Im going to order some of the retainers & the new center pivot assembely .

2056dennis

iTrader: (134)

ok guys i just got a new gen x 10 and was wondering what spare parts do i really need and what hop up parts are needed and what is a good setup for 13.5 1s racing and im running a tekin rs esc with a booster on a track with a 80 foot straight with sweeper thanks for all info and if someone has a good esc setup for this combo that would be great also

hippie

iTrader: (20)

I need to get some lube for my damping tubes. Which of these should i get ?. The complete set is out of stock . But they have some individual bottles .

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Extra 4-40 screws in various types and sizes, the front shim kit, thicker dampening tube oil, rear axle height adjusters (the offset bearing holders), maybe the other small springs,

NiMo

Have been running mine most of the year outdoors, and have only broken 3 things, lower rear pod plate, upper rear pod plate, bearing in diff.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Ditto on lower and upper pod plate. I would add the bumper if you run the full size one. Here are some ways to improve strength as you replace breakage.

CRC heavy duty 4 mm top pod plate

SRC Heavy duty pod bottom plate very recently available

SRC Shortie Bumper Kit This should be your second bumper if you break one. Recently available, it includes a shorter graphite bumper and install kit for the CRC foam bumper. Also there is a Kydex bumper available from Manutech.

Most guys at our track loose pieces rather than break pieces. Back out each screw that is near the pod a couple of turns. Wipe in some blue loctite under the head. Retighten. Losses include red ball studs side link ball nuts (female ballstuds), Battery tray support Posts! All the screws types that go into the pod side plates and side links.

I like to have a pair of front axles on hand and a spare set of front springs and kingpins and one set of arms.

you don't have to get these right away. Usually a failure, though, will stop your racing for that weekend.

Hippie-I don't use damper tubes, someone else please suggest a lube.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Battle Axe 2.0, Offset Pod Setup

Track Test (93 F)
The pic will show you that I had some serious dust on the oval as I practiced solo. In spite of that the car tuned up great. All our suppositions were spot on. The car tuned up with only a 1 ounce difference on the fronts. 7.4 left 8.2 right. This gave me the steering that I was missing last session. There was 11 ounces of left downtweak in the end with 15.4 ounces left 4.3 ounces right. Less of this was from right rear spring tension which improves things at the front. In addition I had a total 3/16" left rear offset and -1/16" right rear offset. This made the car accelerate absolutely straight on corner exit which is a big help when it is dusty or low traction. The car was very drivable. I had enough steering to manouver now. When you can get a pan car to behave with this much dust you have a good setup. The car was spot on with XXPINK/Purple rears as I expected. It would roll really well through the corners. Anyway I am convinced already this is a helpful tuning variant for the car. We shall await John's report. Doug Powel has drawings in hand evalutating the parts. Graphite is scarce at the moment. We may have some kits available when this problem is past.
The fit of the body was super with these settings. All under the shell but the rears were more even with the wheel openings.

One addition since my last oval report was an SRC shortie bumper kit which includes a short graphite bumper, a CRC hard foam bumper, and a set of posts and screws and drill (for the foam only) to attach them on the car. There is a Link in my previous post.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Weight Transfer on the Oval (or road course)
Herb Adams in "Chassis Engineering" gives us a fairly simple formula to calculate the weight transfer on the rear of the car. The formula simplifies to the following if we use pounds or ounces.

Weight transfer = Number of Cornering g's (Car's Center of Gravity Height)(rear weight)/(Rear Track width)

System Theory made a mathematical oval simulator during the, Homemade Dyno using a Novak Sentry, thread. He obtained one data piece for us using actual track data, gearing, dyno power, top speed on the straight etc. Pretty elaborate simulator really very close to helping select gear ratios. The cornering g's on our asphalt track came out to 2.0 g's or so. This gave us very realistic lap times and gear ratios and runlines. That gives us one piece of data in the formula.
Rear weight today was 16.7 ounces.
Track width is from center to center of the rear tires it is 6 inches.
Center of gravity height was determined by balancing the side of the car with body on a point untill it had low tendency to tilt and then measuring its height. I got 1.1/8 inch. So weight transfer at the rear is

weight transfer = (2 x 1.125 inch x 19.7) /6 inch
weight transfer at the rear is 7.3 ounces

So static the car in the rear is 15.2 oz left 4.5 oz rear
In a 2 g corner it is 7.9 oz left 11.8 oz right

I suspect this is about right.

Now extra tire wear on the right indicates that the right is still heavy while cornering even on an offset pod car; the calculations verify this. Weights have been brought more equal by preloading the left side which leads to more rear traction. Evenly loaded tires on an axle lead to the best cornering traction. You can deal with more rear cornering traction and still have a car that does not push or have high drag by using harder rear tires. You still have to deal with that toque bias on corner exit somehow. Note the right rear is more loaded. This drives the front left on corner exit. My cure is some right front positive offset and some left rear positive offset to make the car exit straight. Well that's the Physics of it and it seems to work well for me.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

On carpet, we run 30,000-50,000 wt depending on how high the bite is. At home I run 30,000, at Vegas I ran 50,000 wt.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

My Gen X 10 setup from Vegas

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/downloads...ICsetupWGT.pdf

Any questions, feel free to ask.



dumper

Capt'N_Slow

iTrader: (10)

I was curious about the following items in this setup sheet coming from a box stock setup.

1) What is the advantage of using the 12th scale .50mm spring over the soft (blue) spring. Does this change need to be made in conjunction with any other adjustment for maximum effect. (eg. track width).

2) The side springs where adjusted from white to red. Moving to the red does this give the car additional mid corner speed. Increasing the side springs has always made my car feel more edgy. (traction roll).

3) The center spring has been modified as well from stock 30lbs to 17.5lbs. Is the reason behind this to add additional rear grip due to the lowered 1s weight? or was it to get the 30lbs feel back after lowering the top deck for reduced battery clearance?

hippie

iTrader: (20)

John

What springs do i get for the center shock ?. I would like to have some tunning option's . This will be on carpet . Thank's

DUMPER

Thank you for your repliy about the dampener oil .