Inaugural World GT Petite Le mans (Novak 10.5, Orion 3800 2s LiPo).
We finally had our first race on the big 1/8th scale track at Mikes-Hobbyshop.com. What an exciting race series it was. I started out with a 1.5 lap lead in the first heat. In this heat I finished first with the Gen X 10 and the other geezer in the race finished second with a converted Associated RC10L2. Later in the heats John P started creeping up and TQ'd. The main was truly the most exciting I have been in. We had three guys vying for the lead, very evenly matched, at the limit of traction. We must have had 6 lead changes in the first 8 laps. I led twice. John Payson in a converted Associated L4 took the win with me not far behind. (We are not so particular about what pan car chassis we run, as long as it works.) We had many Gen X 10's in the race. Enough to repeat some advice.
My car ran absolutely flawless. Four finishes at speed. No breakages or problems requiring mechanic work. Some others were not so lucky, but could have prevented the problems.
- You break the large graphite bumper which holds your front body posts. Your body then drags the ground ruining the heat. Use the Manutech plastic lower bumper or our shortie graphite (nicer looking) bumper from Doug Powell at PRC instead. Info@Powellracingcomponents.com
- The Aluminum side link screws come out. When this happens the car is undriveable. Replace the aluminum balls with Losi Steel ball nuts from the JRXS or JRXS type R. Replace those short flat head screws with steel. Put some blue loctite on the screw. This happens to every single Gen-X-10 on our track. Prevent it by just a little expense and trouble ahead of time. I like black oxide coated alloy steel screws for strength (Losi, Associated) They are over twice as strong as the tiny stainless screws we can buy.
- LOSA6009 JRX-S Type R 4-40 Female Ball Studs 3.50/6
- The pod screws all back out. They won't just do this once, they keep doing it until they fall out on our track. When that bottom plate gets a little loose the car doesn't handle quite right. Change those screws to steel screws. After installation back them out, put some blue loctite under the head of the screw and reinstall. Now they stay put.
- A cheesy rear shock broke the casting that supports one of the ends. The car was unsettled. Use RC18T rear shocks if you are going to use shocks. They have very strong ends. Much stronger than pan car type shocks with the little aluminum stubs that bend or break or than this particular brand that I am not familiar with.
- The 10.5 motor shaft separates from the magnet. You are geared slightly over the motors limit in spite of maybe normal 180F temp readings. We lost 3 arms so far. One car lost two today.
Other notes. I like the short stock side links for the most rugged pod lower plate. They flex more preventing ripping out those side holes.
The only adjustments I made was to increased to 6 degrees caster in heat 3. I did not like it. It may have been slightly faster but harder to drive. 2/3 the way in the corner the back end would tend to drift out. This can be cured with the 5 degree reactive caster blocks that kill a little caster mid corner on. I will try a set. I use to run them on the wide pan.
I trimmed the big wing 1/8 inch to add some steering.
I may try the spec front tires again as the winner was running pinks although with a lot of spins in most heats. I was using purple fronts without all the spins.
The front end is holding up great on the long road course. No mods needed other than making it smooth and using the bronze pivot balls. Use red loctite on those brass set screws or you will be leaving them on the track.
The rear end is fine with white springs, blue associated TC3 center spring. I may move weight slightly forward to increase steering or maybe not. The car is really easy to drive, even though, we had quite a bit of dust.
We did not true tires yet. We did talk about it. Its cheaper not too outdoors and the big tires hookup pretty well. The small tires are a little faster though.
I am running one side shock. I re drilled the mount to get a 90 degree outward angle for symmetry in roll left and right when the car suspension is moving up and down. It seems to work fine this way. You don't need much damping in the rear.
Body: Saleen Mustang GT.
Click that pic a second time for a larger more detailed view.
I am using that very nice 4 mm thick pod top plate from CRC. I had broken two original thickness plates previously.