CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks
#1036
Can i use this springs from the RR of the car http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ide-Spring-Set , on the FR of the car as well , or do i need to use this style spring ?.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Spring-50mm
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nd-Spring-50mm
The second springs shown are for the front end of a 1/12th scale car.
Bill
#1037
Tech Initiate
hardness spring Gen X10 "
Hello,
what is the hardness of the BLACK spring of the shock of the "Gen X10 ?
what is the hardness of the BLACK spring of the shock of the "Gen X10 ?
#1038
Great i got the complete set of those springs when i got the car .
#1039
#1040
I use an Xray shock with a softer Associated spring (blue).
Bill
#1041
Tech Initiate
thank you for your responses.
#1042
#1044
John, can i pickle your brain for a moment, [click me] i'd like your opinion from an engineering point of view. Thanks.
#1046
2-wheel drive-I have a Pantoura Chassis. It looks like the new dampened dual A-arm front end is going to fit in both wide and narrow configurations of the Pantoura. In other words there is graphite where you need to drill and countersink holes. Post a pic of the bottom when you get your chassis. I made one last prototype top plate and tested it with good effects this Saturday. All is a go for making a CAD now. After that I can start researching hole positions in other brands of chassis. It looks like they will be 13 mm inboard of a stock CRC chassis inner mounting holes at present for a 200 mm car. (The wide pan is at 117mm (not 112mm as I stated earlier). The fit is good to the Peugeout 905B Body.)
The bolt holes for the narrow car should clear the lightening hole by being forward of it or behind it if the lightening hole is stock Pantoura like. I wanted to remain uninvolved in the selling the front end but it looks like I will have to offer a bolt and parts kit to keep this front end affordable. If you buy the parts yourself you will be out over $40 in unused bolts and tripple shipping. Instead I will try to assemble and sell a kit. It will be more expensive than a CRC Pro strut front end which are going for arround $60 or so. it will be a nice option for a non World GT car.
Please direct order and shipping inquiries of the Nerf Wing and Shortie bumper to Doug by PM or e-mail. [email protected]
I received the latest edition of the Nerf Wing for the 200 mm cars today. I'll put pics of them up in a bit. Sweet!
The bolt holes for the narrow car should clear the lightening hole by being forward of it or behind it if the lightening hole is stock Pantoura like. I wanted to remain uninvolved in the selling the front end but it looks like I will have to offer a bolt and parts kit to keep this front end affordable. If you buy the parts yourself you will be out over $40 in unused bolts and tripple shipping. Instead I will try to assemble and sell a kit. It will be more expensive than a CRC Pro strut front end which are going for arround $60 or so. it will be a nice option for a non World GT car.
Please direct order and shipping inquiries of the Nerf Wing and Shortie bumper to Doug by PM or e-mail. [email protected]
I received the latest edition of the Nerf Wing for the 200 mm cars today. I'll put pics of them up in a bit. Sweet!
#1047
Nerf Wing (Production Version Shipping)
Here is a pic of the final version of the Nerf Wing. This is the only one that Doug has shipped to customers. Really Nice Work Doug!!!
Fit on the press in insert and to the side of the frame are perfect now. Four body post locations exist now. The body post area is strengthened by removing two small lightening holes.
Note the Function of the Nerf Wing that I mentioned previously.
Helps to Protect the Axle from breakage in a crash
Helps to Protect the rear frame area from side crash damage. I had a particularly bad nick there.
Helps to Protect both the outer and center ears from snapping off the pod in a side crash.
You can fine tune your weight balance by mounting electronics and ballast on the Nerf Wing. There is plenty of room for the new style speed controls.
Moves the body post farther out and gives you a selection of locations on that car bodies shoulder for the post. These are available for $19.95 a pair from Doug Powell, [email protected]
Extra Front holes
Now what are the front holes for. Well firstly you will have shimmed your Nerf wing to an angle for Roll and Bump clearance. One #4 Aluminum washer will be between Nerf wing and frame at the rear and on the side holes that are used already. You will run the standard short link which is my preference for Pod survival.
(An HD pod bottom plate will be available soon).
You can drill and countersink the frame at the outboard front hole location if you want more chassis stiffness. You will end up bowing the Nerf wing and making a nice stiff 3-D section out of the rear of the chassis and Nerf wing. This should be beneficial on carpet and not so much on asphalt unless there is high grip.
So how to do this without spending a fortune. First you need to buy a #33 drill .113 inch in diameter. Most Hardware stores have a case where you can buy one drill ($1.00). Black Oxide coated high speed steel is fine. Now to make the countersink without spending the $8.00 plus shipping on an 82 degree steel center drill from McMaster.com. Take one of your pointed Dremmel stones. Cut an 82 degree angle into cardstock or tin. Use the rectangular stone to shape the point to 82 degree by eye. A magnifier helps. First mount the Nerf wing flat (no shims). Next mark the chassis hole to be drilled with pencil. Take off the Nerf wing just to make sure you are drilling in the middle of the frame edge. No room for error here. The frame is narrow. Now bolt it back up. Center punch it if you are so equipped. Drill using the Nerf wing as a guide. It will be hard to mess up this way. Now countersink the bottom side of the chassis for a flat head screw. Use the Dremmel. Take your time. I usually have several holes to do. I alternate holes to let the plastic cool in between passes. Use at least 4 cooling sessions. Take your time. Trial fit the screw. Counter sink until the screw sits flush with the bottom. It is hard to mess up. With a drill press and countersink bit it is very easy to go too deep. Here are some pics to help.
Now that extra hole in front, well that's four your 3-link with Panhard bar rear end which is legal in all pan cars at the moment. It will be available soon as a kit. Strike while the Iron is Hot.
Here is a pic of the final version of the Nerf Wing. This is the only one that Doug has shipped to customers. Really Nice Work Doug!!!
Fit on the press in insert and to the side of the frame are perfect now. Four body post locations exist now. The body post area is strengthened by removing two small lightening holes.
Note the Function of the Nerf Wing that I mentioned previously.
Helps to Protect the Axle from breakage in a crash
Helps to Protect the rear frame area from side crash damage. I had a particularly bad nick there.
Helps to Protect both the outer and center ears from snapping off the pod in a side crash.
You can fine tune your weight balance by mounting electronics and ballast on the Nerf Wing. There is plenty of room for the new style speed controls.
Moves the body post farther out and gives you a selection of locations on that car bodies shoulder for the post. These are available for $19.95 a pair from Doug Powell, [email protected]
Extra Front holes
Now what are the front holes for. Well firstly you will have shimmed your Nerf wing to an angle for Roll and Bump clearance. One #4 Aluminum washer will be between Nerf wing and frame at the rear and on the side holes that are used already. You will run the standard short link which is my preference for Pod survival.
(An HD pod bottom plate will be available soon).
You can drill and countersink the frame at the outboard front hole location if you want more chassis stiffness. You will end up bowing the Nerf wing and making a nice stiff 3-D section out of the rear of the chassis and Nerf wing. This should be beneficial on carpet and not so much on asphalt unless there is high grip.
So how to do this without spending a fortune. First you need to buy a #33 drill .113 inch in diameter. Most Hardware stores have a case where you can buy one drill ($1.00). Black Oxide coated high speed steel is fine. Now to make the countersink without spending the $8.00 plus shipping on an 82 degree steel center drill from McMaster.com. Take one of your pointed Dremmel stones. Cut an 82 degree angle into cardstock or tin. Use the rectangular stone to shape the point to 82 degree by eye. A magnifier helps. First mount the Nerf wing flat (no shims). Next mark the chassis hole to be drilled with pencil. Take off the Nerf wing just to make sure you are drilling in the middle of the frame edge. No room for error here. The frame is narrow. Now bolt it back up. Center punch it if you are so equipped. Drill using the Nerf wing as a guide. It will be hard to mess up this way. Now countersink the bottom side of the chassis for a flat head screw. Use the Dremmel. Take your time. I usually have several holes to do. I alternate holes to let the plastic cool in between passes. Use at least 4 cooling sessions. Take your time. Trial fit the screw. Counter sink until the screw sits flush with the bottom. It is hard to mess up. With a drill press and countersink bit it is very easy to go too deep. Here are some pics to help.
Now that extra hole in front, well that's four your 3-link with Panhard bar rear end which is legal in all pan cars at the moment. It will be available soon as a kit. Strike while the Iron is Hot.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-11-2009 at 04:56 AM.
#1049
The shim washers are optional. You might want to put some whiteout on the outside tip and back tip of the Nefwing and run it a couple of heats looking for contact marks. You want to keep those marks to a minimum so the car is not slowed on the bumps or in roll by contact with the carpet. Include the button head screw on the body post.
#1050
John Will the nerf wings still fit if im using the CRC center mount for the esc ?.