Nerf Wing (Production Version Shipping)
Here is a pic of the final version of the Nerf Wing. This is the only one that Doug has shipped to customers. Really Nice Work Doug!!!
Fit on the press in insert and to the side of the frame are perfect now. Four body post locations exist now. The body post area is strengthened by removing two small lightening holes.
Note the Function of the Nerf Wing
that I mentioned previously.
Helps to Protect the Axle from breakage in a crash
Helps to Protect the rear frame area from side crash damage. I had a particularly bad nick there.
Helps to Protect both the outer and center ears from snapping off the pod in a side crash.
You can fine tune your weight balance by mounting electronics and ballast on the Nerf Wing. There is plenty of room for the new style speed controls.
Moves the body post farther out and gives you a selection of locations on that car bodies shoulder for the post. These are available for $19.95 a pair from Doug Powell, Info@Powellracingcomponents.com
Extra Front holes
Now what are the front holes for. Well firstly you will have shimmed your Nerf wing to an angle for Roll and Bump clearance. One #4 Aluminum washer will be between Nerf wing and frame at the rear and on the side holes that are used already. You will run the standard short link which is my preference for Pod survival.
(An HD pod bottom plate will be available soon).
You can drill and countersink the frame at the outboard front hole location if you want more chassis stiffness. You will end up bowing the Nerf wing and making a nice stiff 3-D section out of the rear of the chassis and Nerf wing. This should be beneficial on carpet and not so much on asphalt unless there is high grip.
So how to do this without spending a fortune. First you need to buy a #33 drill .113 inch in diameter. Most Hardware stores have a case where you can buy one drill ($1.00). Black Oxide coated high speed steel is fine. Now to make the countersink without spending the $8.00 plus shipping on an 82 degree steel center drill from McMaster.com. Take one of your pointed Dremmel stones. Cut an 82 degree angle into cardstock or tin. Use the rectangular stone to shape the point to 82 degree by eye. A magnifier helps. First mount the Nerf wing flat (no shims). Next mark the chassis hole to be drilled with pencil. Take off the Nerf wing just to make sure you are drilling in the middle of the frame edge. No room for error here. The frame is narrow. Now bolt it back up. Center punch it if you are so equipped. Drill using the Nerf wing as a guide. It will be hard to mess up this way. Now countersink the bottom side of the chassis for a flat head screw. Use the Dremmel. Take your time. I usually have several holes to do. I alternate holes to let the plastic cool in between passes. Use at least 4 cooling sessions. Take your time. Trial fit the screw. Counter sink until the screw sits flush with the bottom. It is hard to mess up. With a drill press and countersink bit it is very easy to go too deep. Here are some pics to help.
Now that extra hole in front, well that's four your 3-link with Panhard bar rear end which is legal in all pan cars at the moment. It will be available soon as a kit. Strike while the Iron is Hot.