CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

[John Stranahan]

SchuMI2-Very well executed 3 link. I like the flexure front end as well. Keep us posted on the results.

[2wdrive]

very nice indeed! Did he use some associated servo mounts underneath the chasis brace to fix the shockbrace? Some more pictures of the pod would be appreciated :-).

edit:
on second thought they could be tamiya, the color is lighter.

[John Stranahan]

2Wdrive-Here is a lightened pic of ShuMi2's 3-link rear end. It has several nice features. Nice long rugged links. Good high antisquat setting. Mini full width shock tower. Coil over shocks. Minimal alterations to bottom plate and chassis, I assume.

[SchuMi2]

Originally Posted by John Stranahan

Minimal alterations to bottom plate and chassis, I assume.

John...Correct. The chassis has only 3 extra holes...2 for the bottom links and 1 for the top link mount. This is for the saddle pack car. The inline/stickpack chassis has the 2 for bottom links and 4 for the stand up servo mount. The rear pod has 4 holes...2 for the wing mount and 2 for the shock/panhard plate mount.

Originally Posted by 2wdrive

very nice indeed! Did he use some associated servo mounts underneath the chasis brace to fix the shockbrace? Some more pictures of the pod would be appreciated :-).

edit:
on second thought they could be tamiya, the color is lighter.

2wdrive...The servo mounts are Tamiya DB01(3racing variety) used for the shock tower mount.

Here are a few picks of the car race ready...

[tjompa]

I find this thread very interesting, thanks to John that have put down so much effort to tell us about everything he ha experienced and learned.
This is my recently bought CRC/PRC car, will fit a sxx esc and a 6.5motor in it and a lipo pack. I will certainly come back to this thread when i need to find answers on why the car is doing this and that and dont that

[John Stranahan]

You are welcome. Nice paint. Good Luck. We will all be glad to help.

[John Stranahan]

Gen X 10 Setting Camber with BSR front wheels

It is nice to be able to adjust camber with the wheel on so that the camber guage can be used at the same time as adjustments are going on. It is also good to save wear and tear on the nylon part of the nylock nut securing the wheel. After only a handfull of Remove and Replace (R&R) on the front wheel, the nut will be worn and you chance losing the wheel in a race. What I did is drill a hole in the wheel so the allen driver would reach the pivot ball hex. Works great, really easy to do. Drill two holes if you want to maintain wheel balance. I used 1.75 degrees on the left front to accomodate a high speed sweeper (45 mph). A little less on the right side. Adjust camber to get even tire wear.

World GT

Classic Battle:

Eibach Racing Nissan R34 (skyline) GTR
vs
BP (Petroleum) Toyota Supra

Petit Lemans (Novak 10.5, Orion 3800)

This was my first sparring session on our brand new asphalt. Jason came out with his Gen -X-10. He could not wait till next weekend like myself. We had an Outlaw practice session (before the track is officially open). Gen X 10 vs Gen X 10. Very scale looking Nissan and Toyota Bodies. Sparring was just great. We could drive side by side, we could drive front to back within inches. We could corner two abreast. We could swap places easily and often. Sparing was very close. We could trade some paint as well, but there was little damage to be seen. Speeds were about 45 mph into the sweeper, I could then lift and maintain the white line at the full straightaway speed on entry. Two wide on the sweeper was the norm. You are going to like this class.

Gearing World GT 10.5/2s LiPo
myself 3.00 69/23 48 pitch gears.
Jason 3.44 (assuming a 100 stock spur)

Air Temp 101 F, Track Temp 146 F. It is very unusual conditions indeed when things are hotter than this in Houston. Motor temp after about a 7-8 minute run, 192 F. We are at the upper limit but are using no cooling in extreme conditions with a little longer than a 6 minute run. Your gears will end up in between there somewhere. We did not miss the interior boards for practicing. The outer boards should be up soon.


Yes all the screws will fall out of pod end of your car. Back each one out 2 full turns. Put some blue Loctite under the head of the screw (not on the threads) then tighten as normal. Loctite on the threads of aluminum screws will cause the hex to strip on removal.

If you are considering World GT on an Outdoor large track, this is looking like a very good powertrain.

Gen X 10 build tips
I am posting a mid thread table of contents to help build the Gen X 10. Note that the durability tips and front end tips for the Gen X 10 and Battle Axe are the same

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4472940-post34.html
Building the Front End

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4524031-post99.html
Electronics install, Side to Side Balance, Tweak

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4519288-post91.html
Loctite on Screws

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4462776-post4.html
Building the Diff

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4469679-post25.html
Durability Improvements
__________________

[2wdrive]

myself 3.00 69/23 48 pitch gears.
Jason 3.44 (assuming a 100 stock spur)



Just curious, what rollout were you at? (milimeters)

Spur divided by pinion doesn't say much with foam tires hehe.

[John Stranahan]

My ratio 69/23
2.2 inch diameter tire, 2.30 inch rollout/rev or 58.42 mm rollout/rev
I have made a small adjustment to 72/23 for the next session.

I calculated revs at a radar checked max speed of 45 mph. I got 20,634 RPM. Max motor speed on the dyno is 30,612 RPM. It is interesting to note that this track max RPM is right where the power curve on the dyno has returned almost to baseline and is tapering off, the RPM and power continues to rise, though, on these brushless motors for quite a few seconds more as the speed control makes more optimum settings. This is not shown on the truncated dyno graph because of the method I used to smooth the Novak Sentry data. As soon as I get lap times, I will see if there is any correlation with average speed and Max power RPM that we can use to gear these puppies.

[John Stranahan]

James and I have made some AutoCad progress. We are 3-D capable now. Here is a pic of the printed CAD output of my prototype 235 mm Nerfwing showing one of the countersinks on the left. Sweet. On to the dual A-arm front end now.

[2wdrive]

John, could you help me out and measure the width of the hourglass standoff at the bottom or top part? I need the distance for my pantoura project, to be sure the dampertube ball end nut isn't in conflict with the standoff.

I would appreciate it.

[John Stranahan]

The Hour glass standoff is .310 diameter on both ends. It comes in 1/2 and 5/8 inch length.

Axial makes a nice (but metric) red post in this range it was .270 inch diameter.

[s13evo]

hey can anyone recommend me a SPUR/Pinion combo for the CRC.

will be using:

64P gears
Novak 5.5/GTB combo
7.4 Lipo
Stock Jaco Foam straight from package, no trueing.
super tight turns and short straight.

[John Stranahan]

Jason-Thanks for the post. The link Durability improvement goes to this post below. In the last paragraph are two Losi part numbers to reinforce the side link ball studs with steel and a washer and the center pivot with a washer. The washer on the center pivot may have saved your Pod bottom plate by spreading the load of that center pivot ball out.

CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

The original post in the above link has a photo fo the parts.

Originally Posted by John Stranahan

Durability improvements
I weighed the car with and LRP sphere speed control, Novak 13.5 brushless, Spectrum pro receiver, a clear body, no wing, and a small servo. It weighed about 39.7 ounces. The wing I use will bring that up to about 40.1 ounces. I have a little weight to spare so I can increase the durability of a few parts.

I had a long experience with the CRC Pantoura which has a similar pod to main chassis assembly as the Battle Axe. It is a center pivot side link car. I found that outdoors, on my track, that the center aluminum pivot ball wears quickly and then the center pivot starts to fill with grit and bind up. I like a steel ball here. It is available from an older Associated Car, ASC 4336 at TowerHobbies.com or StormerHobbies.com
I had a crash in the Pantoura that pulled one of the side pivot screws up through the lower pod plate. You need a steel screw here with a good wide head. These are installed already in stainless steel on Rick's Battle Axe. In addition I like steel pivot balls here on the side links on my outdoor track. The balls from the Losi JRXS are similar to the Aluminum ones in hardened steel. LOSA6009. I put one thin Losi Belleville washer (spring washer) LOSA3078 under the ball to spread the load of the somewhat smallish hex on these balls. The washer is thin so it does not change the pivot height much. One goes under the center pivot ball as well to keep all balls the same height. Here is a pic of the strength and wear upgrade parts.

John

[tjompa]

Originally Posted by s13evo

hey can anyone recommend me a SPUR/Pinion combo for the CRC.

will be using:

64P gears
Novak 5.5/GTB combo
7.4 Lipo
Stock Jaco Foam straight from package, no trueing.
super tight turns and short straight.

100 tooth on the spur and around 17-20 on the pinion, i have a 6.5 and my sweet spot is 100/24 on large tracks. (untill i get my 4.0)
good luck.