8LikesCRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks
10-16-2008, 11:23 AM
#316
Heck Boomer. I was just going to stick it on there. Now I have had to study a 40 page document.
. Anyway the answer to one of your questions is in parallel according to diagram 2 below. If parallel then no centering spring although the servo saver is sprung to center quite stiffly. From feeling the servo inerter I made with my fingers I suspect the inertance is quite high. A long lever will help. It really would need one fewer set of gears as I suspected previously. You can kick it with your fingers and it will rotate all the way to the stop and reflect back some though. Thus friction is fairly low. I will study that doc some more to see where your second question comes in.
Pics 1: schematic of an inerter. That looks just like my servo setup does it not. If you have never peeked inside a servo there are at least four sets of these reduction gears. Note I have cropped out the disturbing parts below the diagram. Pic 2: 2 different ways to hook up your inerter on a car suspension. The shock is box c and the inerter box d in this series. Pic 3: An actual inerter. Note the huge multiplication of the inertia compared to the weight of the device.
john
. Anyway the answer to one of your questions is in parallel according to diagram 2 below. If parallel then no centering spring although the servo saver is sprung to center quite stiffly. From feeling the servo inerter I made with my fingers I suspect the inertance is quite high. A long lever will help. It really would need one fewer set of gears as I suspected previously. You can kick it with your fingers and it will rotate all the way to the stop and reflect back some though. Thus friction is fairly low. I will study that doc some more to see where your second question comes in.Pics 1: schematic of an inerter. That looks just like my servo setup does it not. If you have never peeked inside a servo there are at least four sets of these reduction gears. Note I have cropped out the disturbing parts below the diagram. Pic 2: 2 different ways to hook up your inerter on a car suspension. The shock is box c and the inerter box d in this series. Pic 3: An actual inerter. Note the huge multiplication of the inertia compared to the weight of the device.
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-16-2008 at 11:39 AM.
10-17-2008, 08:49 AM
#317
Always happy to increase your reading load - did you get half of that? LOL - it was a bit of a load...
Anyway - without a centering spring, I just wonder what it will do, honestly, except to act to keep the suspension moving a bit past what it would, normally. . .
I mean, it's function parallels that of a damper, correct? It works to slow the action of the spring and to reduce bounceback and ongoing oscillation. . . but enter inertia and it looks like it would just try to keep going a bit after the initial action had gone. . .
maybe?
Please hurry and mount this and then pics/vids/etc. I wanna see how this sucker works!
Anyway - without a centering spring, I just wonder what it will do, honestly, except to act to keep the suspension moving a bit past what it would, normally. . .
I mean, it's function parallels that of a damper, correct? It works to slow the action of the spring and to reduce bounceback and ongoing oscillation. . . but enter inertia and it looks like it would just try to keep going a bit after the initial action had gone. . .
maybe?
Please hurry and mount this and then pics/vids/etc. I wanna see how this sucker works!
10-17-2008, 09:22 AM
#318
I took a mechanical look at mounting this device. On a standard pan rear suspension It looks like a link right above or below the center shock with the inerter at the center shock forward mount would be the best place. On my 3-link cars mounting would be more a problem although they need the device less.
Note on the pic. If I fuse the two center gears somehow then I can remove one set of gears to give the device less inertance. The lowest centered gear drives the motor (on the left out of view)
10-17-2008, 07:02 PM
#319
New CRC front bumper
Here are a couple pics of the new Battle Axe and GenX10 front bumper.(CRC1759). A wreck my teamate had today reminds me of its great importance on the oval. He went head on into a board. It broke the hard bumper, and sheared the ears off the servo. A foam bumper would have prevented all of this damage. The CRC bumper is made out of a very hard but still light foam like I have seen on P-dub bumpers but at 1/3 the price for the CRC at $5. The bumper is 1/2 inch high so that no trimming is needed at the top front. The sides extend pretty far to protect your A-arms but I would prefer if both sides extended an additional 5 mm for a 10 mm wider bumper. See the second photo. The rigidity of the foam will make this extension effective in reducing suspension damage without danger of rubbing after a wreck.
Note the bumper is predrilled for a variety of body post positions. It also has a centered hole that I would strongly advise you use for a short body post support if you use a graphite bumper underneath. This will prevent breakage of the graphite bumper. See the first photo.
Upgrades for LiPo/6 cell
I finished some upgrades to use my weight savings with LiPo to make the car more rugged. Gone are the skinny body pins. I replaced these with CRC1420 body pins which are the thick ones that I like. They don't come off or push in further after a bump. I added the foam bumper. I then removed their exact weight from my lead ballast weight. I am at 43.1 oz. Spec is 43. I changed the front body post with CRC 1378 short body posts which were the exact length I needed. Get two sets and trim that center one for the middle of the bumper. I got some CRC 1264, 3 inch long body posts as spares for the other 3 positions on the car. Often these long body posts come with a collar and set screw for setting height accurately but then they are not drilled. Both these CRC sets are drilled and come with collars and set screws if you like that setup. I personally like pins above and below the body with a Parma foam body washer under the body. This keeps the body quiet on the track. If you really like the Aluminum type of post with screws get the ones with plastic ends. This will save your graphite from breakage.
Our first LiPo 13.5 race will be Sunday. We should have a good size crew. Quite a few showed this last Sunday for an Organized Practice. We are just getting over the Hurricane Ike now.
I had a long test session today with Ron, an experience racer, but new to the oval. I mostly tried tire combinations with LiPo 13.5.
Pinks all arround. Twitchy.
XXPink/Purple Rears pink fronts Same forward grip remarkably, less twitchy too much steering grip. (yes the rear was made loser)
XXPink/Purple Rears, Magenta Fronts, not quite enough steering grip
XXPink/Purple Rears, Magenta right front, Pink left front. Perfect on my car. I'll start the race like this.
John
Here are a couple pics of the new Battle Axe and GenX10 front bumper.(CRC1759). A wreck my teamate had today reminds me of its great importance on the oval. He went head on into a board. It broke the hard bumper, and sheared the ears off the servo. A foam bumper would have prevented all of this damage. The CRC bumper is made out of a very hard but still light foam like I have seen on P-dub bumpers but at 1/3 the price for the CRC at $5. The bumper is 1/2 inch high so that no trimming is needed at the top front. The sides extend pretty far to protect your A-arms but I would prefer if both sides extended an additional 5 mm for a 10 mm wider bumper. See the second photo. The rigidity of the foam will make this extension effective in reducing suspension damage without danger of rubbing after a wreck.
Note the bumper is predrilled for a variety of body post positions. It also has a centered hole that I would strongly advise you use for a short body post support if you use a graphite bumper underneath. This will prevent breakage of the graphite bumper. See the first photo.
Upgrades for LiPo/6 cell
I finished some upgrades to use my weight savings with LiPo to make the car more rugged. Gone are the skinny body pins. I replaced these with CRC1420 body pins which are the thick ones that I like. They don't come off or push in further after a bump. I added the foam bumper. I then removed their exact weight from my lead ballast weight. I am at 43.1 oz. Spec is 43. I changed the front body post with CRC 1378 short body posts which were the exact length I needed. Get two sets and trim that center one for the middle of the bumper. I got some CRC 1264, 3 inch long body posts as spares for the other 3 positions on the car. Often these long body posts come with a collar and set screw for setting height accurately but then they are not drilled. Both these CRC sets are drilled and come with collars and set screws if you like that setup. I personally like pins above and below the body with a Parma foam body washer under the body. This keeps the body quiet on the track. If you really like the Aluminum type of post with screws get the ones with plastic ends. This will save your graphite from breakage.
Our first LiPo 13.5 race will be Sunday. We should have a good size crew. Quite a few showed this last Sunday for an Organized Practice. We are just getting over the Hurricane Ike now.
I had a long test session today with Ron, an experience racer, but new to the oval. I mostly tried tire combinations with LiPo 13.5.
Pinks all arround. Twitchy.
XXPink/Purple Rears pink fronts Same forward grip remarkably, less twitchy too much steering grip. (yes the rear was made loser)
XXPink/Purple Rears, Magenta Fronts, not quite enough steering grip
XXPink/Purple Rears, Magenta right front, Pink left front. Perfect on my car. I'll start the race like this.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-18-2008 at 04:06 PM.
10-18-2008, 02:02 AM
#320
I think these CRC body pins look a lot like the Team Losi ones. These are very good but in a very hard crash sometimes they still come loose.
10-18-2008, 07:41 AM
#321
The pins are very similar to a Team Losi style pin I had in the box. They are a slightly larger diameter wire (.003 larger at .056 inch) and slightly larger form though. Team Losi pins may have increased in the meantime; I measured an old pin. I agree in a very severe crash they may come out. Having 3 front body posts helps here by adding some redundancy to keep the front of the body down and allowing a finish.
John
John
10-20-2008, 02:30 PM
#322
RW 48 pitch Gears
In going to 13.5 LiPo for outdoor asphalt I have switched from 64 pitch to 48 pitch gears. I have some RW pinions in 48 pitch just in from the UK. Here are some nice things about the pinions and the RW spur which is on the upper right of the picture. The pinions are lightened well by a huge dish cut out. They feel a little like Aluminum pinions in the hand. They are hardened steel. The RW website nor this retailer discussed the coating on the pinion. There obviously is one. I suspect its a Teflon finish for low friction. It does not look like a Titanium Nitride Hardcoat which would be more yellow. The pinions are well machined with a good smooth surface finish. The setscrew is a metric size. Note the large markings that even I can read in the pits.
Note the clear markings on the spur and the absence of such on the Robinson Racing Spur. Also note that the holes for the balls are in a reduced radius position for lower rotational inertia. You can probably not use the lightened diff rings with this arrangement as the lightening is in the area of the diff balls location. The spurs are made of acetol (Delrin, Nylon).
I have a 66 tooth 48 pitch Robinson Racing spur that has the diff balls farther inward like this RW spur. I used it yesterday and it worked fine with the 13.5. My present gear is 66/28 for the LiPo/13.5. Tires less than 2.250 inch. It is not so important to keep an exact ratio as the tires wear down as there is some excess power now.
I now can use a little brakes on the track to avoid collisions. One avoided just yesterday with a quick stab of the brakes. 64 pitch gears tend to strip on brakes and wear very quickly outdoors.
Pic top row left Robinson Racing 72 t spur, top right R W 72 t spur.
Bottom two hardened steel RW pinions in 48 pitch.
John
In going to 13.5 LiPo for outdoor asphalt I have switched from 64 pitch to 48 pitch gears. I have some RW pinions in 48 pitch just in from the UK. Here are some nice things about the pinions and the RW spur which is on the upper right of the picture. The pinions are lightened well by a huge dish cut out. They feel a little like Aluminum pinions in the hand. They are hardened steel. The RW website nor this retailer discussed the coating on the pinion. There obviously is one. I suspect its a Teflon finish for low friction. It does not look like a Titanium Nitride Hardcoat which would be more yellow. The pinions are well machined with a good smooth surface finish. The setscrew is a metric size. Note the large markings that even I can read in the pits.
Note the clear markings on the spur and the absence of such on the Robinson Racing Spur. Also note that the holes for the balls are in a reduced radius position for lower rotational inertia. You can probably not use the lightened diff rings with this arrangement as the lightening is in the area of the diff balls location. The spurs are made of acetol (Delrin, Nylon).
I have a 66 tooth 48 pitch Robinson Racing spur that has the diff balls farther inward like this RW spur. I used it yesterday and it worked fine with the 13.5. My present gear is 66/28 for the LiPo/13.5. Tires less than 2.250 inch. It is not so important to keep an exact ratio as the tires wear down as there is some excess power now.
I now can use a little brakes on the track to avoid collisions. One avoided just yesterday with a quick stab of the brakes. 64 pitch gears tend to strip on brakes and wear very quickly outdoors.
Pic top row left Robinson Racing 72 t spur, top right R W 72 t spur.
Bottom two hardened steel RW pinions in 48 pitch.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-26-2008 at 03:46 PM.
10-21-2008, 04:46 PM
#323
Tire Chunk Repair
I suffered a huge chunk, all the way to the rim on this RC4less pink front tire. It was bad enough, and the tire almost new in trued form, that I looked for the piece of foam the next day. Found it. Used Sobo Premium Craft and Fabric glue to glue it back in. Then I glued rubber powder from the truing station into the cracks. Retrued it just a little. It came out nice. These repaired sections wear well and do not upset the handling on 1/10 scale. You can also cut a piece of foam from another dead tire to make the repair.
john
I suffered a huge chunk, all the way to the rim on this RC4less pink front tire. It was bad enough, and the tire almost new in trued form, that I looked for the piece of foam the next day. Found it. Used Sobo Premium Craft and Fabric glue to glue it back in. Then I glued rubber powder from the truing station into the cracks. Retrued it just a little. It came out nice. These repaired sections wear well and do not upset the handling on 1/10 scale. You can also cut a piece of foam from another dead tire to make the repair.
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-22-2008 at 07:00 PM.
10-22-2008, 06:56 PM
#324
Inerter (discussed above)-I ordered a new case and gear set and servo mounts for my servo based inerter. I plan to fuse the two center gears and thus remove one set of gears from the drivetrain. This will give it a reasonably sized inertance. My finger says the inertance is a bit high right now. Test will be on a Battle Axe with a center pivot link style of rear suspension. I wil try and get my radar back and actually do this test on a long straight to see if speed and thus traction is improved over the bumps.
CRC ProCut tires, World GT spec class tires
The 1/10 scale tires are a new line just starting up for CRC. They have been racing and winning on 1/12 scale procut tires for quite a while. These 1/10 foams have a blue section glued in to mark the tire as a spec tire. I don't have a lot of imformation as to hardness, but they may work well on the 13.5 powered car on asphalt. I will see. It is nice to see another manufacturer moving into this 1/10 pan tire market. The price is right.
Reactive Caster Blocks (pic)
I have discussed previously what reactive caster blocks do on a road pan car. The 5 degree block causes the car to reduce caster by 1 degree when it is fully rolled in a turn. The reduction in caster softens steering late in the turn. I have ordered up a set of these aluminum blocks which are available for the CRC prostrut front end. On the oval car I will likely try the 5 degree block but only on the left side. This may improve steering traction with roll. I will see.
Battle Axe Delivery Date
I have seen delivery dates for the 2009 spec battle axe about November 7. There has been some shortage of graphite material causing delays.
John
CRC ProCut tires, World GT spec class tires
The 1/10 scale tires are a new line just starting up for CRC. They have been racing and winning on 1/12 scale procut tires for quite a while. These 1/10 foams have a blue section glued in to mark the tire as a spec tire. I don't have a lot of imformation as to hardness, but they may work well on the 13.5 powered car on asphalt. I will see. It is nice to see another manufacturer moving into this 1/10 pan tire market. The price is right.
Reactive Caster Blocks (pic)
I have discussed previously what reactive caster blocks do on a road pan car. The 5 degree block causes the car to reduce caster by 1 degree when it is fully rolled in a turn. The reduction in caster softens steering late in the turn. I have ordered up a set of these aluminum blocks which are available for the CRC prostrut front end. On the oval car I will likely try the 5 degree block but only on the left side. This may improve steering traction with roll. I will see.
Battle Axe Delivery Date
I have seen delivery dates for the 2009 spec battle axe about November 7. There has been some shortage of graphite material causing delays.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-23-2008 at 07:22 AM.
10-23-2008, 06:35 PM
#325
Battle Axe, 2009 spec
Preparations for the imminent delivery of my Battle Axe are Underway.
The Body
1226-21T HD (Toyota, High Downforce) 1/10 200 mm Pan Oval Body, Flat Track
is painted in metallic green with Daytona Yellow.
I have mounted my prefered oval wing which is a J Concepts
0110 Illusion 7.25 inch wide Touring Car Wing
The wing is mounted with
85193 HPI Wing Mounts (includes low, med, high standoffs)
I prefer this wing over oval wings that I have tried because lap times were faster. Additional benefits are that it is less than half the weight of the oval wing and piano wire mount. The resulting effect is a noticeable lowering of the rear center of gravity.
The electronics have been selected. Photo 2. I am going to try for the first time a mighty mini servo from Hitec. The torque at 60 ounce inches and speed at .15 sec/60 degrees is very adequate. I am hoping the smaller metal gears are equally adequate. The Kimbrough for Hitec red servo saver should help.
131 Medium servo gear saver Hitec
I plan on using this Sphere competition speed control. I removed the heat sink which is taped on with heat transfer tape. It should run at adequate temperatures with 13.5 LiPo. If not I will have a Worlds cooling kit on hand for the summer months.
Other Items on the way
a new Spektrum Pro micro receiver.
SR3500 Micro Racing Receiver
On hand a new Novak SS13.5 motor. This motor now comes with an LRP style black sheath around the sensor wires. I like this change. They used to come unprotected and required the use of the old beat up spiral sheath the speed control came with. This will help your new install sparkle.
3413Novak SS 13.5 Pro Stock Racing Brushless Motor
On the way is an Orion 3800 mAh graphite edition LiPo with Traxxas connector. This means it has leads and can easily be changed to Deans. I don't care for the Orion tubes much as the male connector gets lose with use and can pop out even over a bad bump.
ORN140123800 mA-h LiPo graphite edition, Traxas Connector.
CRC has also sent me a couple of boxes of promotional parts which I selected to test. I mentioned a few of these in my previous post. Exiting times are coming again. Thanks Frank.
pic:Note there is no chassis under the body, hence no rear wheel cutouts yet.
John
Preparations for the imminent delivery of my Battle Axe are Underway.
The Body
1226-21T HD (Toyota, High Downforce) 1/10 200 mm Pan Oval Body, Flat Track
is painted in metallic green with Daytona Yellow.
I have mounted my prefered oval wing which is a J Concepts
0110 Illusion 7.25 inch wide Touring Car Wing
The wing is mounted with
85193 HPI Wing Mounts (includes low, med, high standoffs)
I prefer this wing over oval wings that I have tried because lap times were faster. Additional benefits are that it is less than half the weight of the oval wing and piano wire mount. The resulting effect is a noticeable lowering of the rear center of gravity.
The electronics have been selected. Photo 2. I am going to try for the first time a mighty mini servo from Hitec. The torque at 60 ounce inches and speed at .15 sec/60 degrees is very adequate. I am hoping the smaller metal gears are equally adequate. The Kimbrough for Hitec red servo saver should help.
131 Medium servo gear saver Hitec
I plan on using this Sphere competition speed control. I removed the heat sink which is taped on with heat transfer tape. It should run at adequate temperatures with 13.5 LiPo. If not I will have a Worlds cooling kit on hand for the summer months.
Other Items on the way
a new Spektrum Pro micro receiver.
SR3500 Micro Racing Receiver
On hand a new Novak SS13.5 motor. This motor now comes with an LRP style black sheath around the sensor wires. I like this change. They used to come unprotected and required the use of the old beat up spiral sheath the speed control came with. This will help your new install sparkle.
3413Novak SS 13.5 Pro Stock Racing Brushless Motor
On the way is an Orion 3800 mAh graphite edition LiPo with Traxxas connector. This means it has leads and can easily be changed to Deans. I don't care for the Orion tubes much as the male connector gets lose with use and can pop out even over a bad bump.
ORN140123800 mA-h LiPo graphite edition, Traxas Connector.
CRC has also sent me a couple of boxes of promotional parts which I selected to test. I mentioned a few of these in my previous post. Exiting times are coming again. Thanks Frank.
pic:Note there is no chassis under the body, hence no rear wheel cutouts yet.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-26-2008 at 06:01 AM.
10-25-2008, 06:21 PM
#328
Hopups
One of the pleasures of bying an RC car is buying hopups for it to make it more customized for yourself. Many times the hopups that I have seen in photographs in the mags do nothing to improve the strength or performance of the car. Mostly they change the color and put Aluminum parts where there should be plastic parts for flexibility. Not so for the hopups, printed here; you can buy these for your battle axe or pan. I don't have the car yet but I expect it soon. Please, I don't need a third in a series negative post about this situation. A small manufacturer does his best to meet shipping deadlines, but problems creep up.
I have been driving Pan Cars for Several years. I have broken every part that it is possible to break. Often with an inexpensive substitution, or upgrade, you can prevent damage to the expensive parts of the car even in huge crashes. I don't really like breaking anything in the main as it causes a DNF (did not finish). If you are running a series this is especially important. Don't break in the main. There will be plenty of crashes in oval or World GT that are just unavoidable, like the guy spins just in front of you, and is heading backwards on the track for a moment. So if you are following my build up and would like to tag along by preordering some small parts here are some part numbers that might help you. Some of these will apply to any pan car.
First the Front End
I gave the Battle Axe Pro Strut Front end a good durability test on Ricks Battle Axe. It took me about two weeks to TQ, run fast lap and win with it. I found the front end as durable as an Associated front end with 3/16 inline Aluminum Axles. This 3/16 axle is a common oval and onroad setup. So do you need to buy something to improve it, well no. Can you buy an optional front end that is stronger right from CRC, yes. What you will find with this trailing axle setup is that you will hardly ever bend an axle or hinge pin. I never have bent the pin or axle in several years of running this setup. My road cars are traversing the track with speeds over 50 mph. Our side boads are 2 x 10 lumber. Hardly the forgiving type. My oval car, using this axle, has never bent the pin nor axle. The Front bearings have never separated into pieces and lost the wheel. This is a problem I experienced with a 3/16 axle after a meager bump into the side boards. So without apology I provide this optional set of parts for maximum durability. I will not promise improved performance. My test so far show similar performance, the CRC with stock parts, the associated with aftermarket long hinge pins and Wolfe springs, but I will look into this more in the future.
Optional CRC Ruggedized Front End (lighter or stronger parts in parenthesis)
1 CRC 1244 Upper Pivot, Upper A-arm Pivot 2.50
1 CRC 1251 Steering Block Front End, Traling Axle 1.99
(1 CRC 4277 Machined Delrin Steering Blocks, Trailing Axle 12.99)
1 CRC 1235 Steel Trailing Axles, 1/8 inch diameter 4.99
(1 CRC 4115 Trailing Titanium Stub Axle 14.99)
1 CRC 3246 Low Profile Plastic Pivot Balls 4.99
1 CRC 1252 Steel 6 x 32 front turnbuckle for Upper A-arm 4.99
(1 CRC 4274 Titanium 6 x 32 front Turnbuckle for Upper A-arm 5.99)
(CRC 3277 Cross Brace, Graphite, to eliminate cutting upper arms $15)
2 Associated 8425 King Pin Shim (10) 1.45 2.90
1 Losi A6088 1/8 x 1.246 inch TiN coated Hinge Pins for long Pan
Car Kingpin $5.95
(Lunsford 3066 XXXT-MFT Hinge Pin Set Titanium 24)
4 Avid RC Flanged 1/8 x 5/16 bearings for 1/8 axle Front Wheels 1.00 4.00
(4 CRC 12481 Flanged 1/8 x 5/16 bearings for 1/8 axle Front Wheels $3.49 13.96)
Subtotal minimum aproximately $32, Maximum with all titanium and Delrin $107
Do you need the titanium or Delrin parts for strength, no. Do you need to upgrade to win with this car. no. They are lighter and, well, cooler.
Hopups, Ruggedizing The Chassis
One very highly stressed and high wear parts on a center pivot link car is the center pivot and the side links. Stress is huge in a crash. What you dont want is the link to pull the screw up through the graphite. I had this happen once, but never again after this hopup. CRC has done a great job since the Pantoura by providing large headed steel screws for this important area. I go one step farther for outdoor speed and grit. I replace the aluminum pivot balls with a steell Losi Ball Nut and put a thin steel Bellevile (spring) washer from a Losi Diff Screw under the ball nut pointy side up. This distributes the load and the steel provides much better wear properties from outdoor grit. I also replace the center aluminum ball with a chrome steel unit which wears much better. When this part wears better the pivot remains smooth as silk much longer.
Hopups, Ruggedizing The Chassis
1 CRC 1378 Body Post Set. Extra center post for bumper 2.99
1 CRC 4274 Titanium 6 x 32 front Turnbuckle for Upper A-arm 5.99
1 CRC 1759 Foam Bumper 4.99
2 CRC 1420 Heavy Duty Body Clips 1.00 2.00
2 Losi A6009 Losi JRXS female ballstuds, ball nuts (replace soft aluminum) $5.90
1 Losi A2909 Diff Screw, Thin steel Belleville Washers under Ball nuts $3.29
1 CRC 1256 Chrome Pivot Ball with spacer, Replaces center pivot Aluminum Ball 2.99
1 Robinson Racing 1872 72 tooth stealth Pro Spur Gear, Pan Car, TC3/TC4 5.69
Lunsford 1064 Punisher Plus 1-3/8 inch Titanium Turnbuckles $12
1 Robinson Racing 1035 31 tooth Alloy Steel Pinion, Hard Nickel Silver Color $3.69
I have part numbers for the electronics in the previous post. All of these parts are heavy duty except the Servo. I am testing this smaller size. Pictures to come.
1226-21T HD (Toyota, High Downforce) 1/10 200 mm Pan Oval Body, Flat Track.
J Concepts 0110 Illusion 7.25 inch wide Touring Car Wing
HPI 85193 HPI Wing Mounts (includes low, med, high standoffs)
Hitec HTS32225 Mighty Mini Servo,.15/60deg speed, 61oz-in torque @4.8V
Use a KO 2431 ICS for a heavier duty servo that is still light and half height.
Kimbrough 131 Medium servo gear saver Hitec
Spektrum SR3500 Micro Racing Receiver
Novak 3413Novak SS 13.5 Pro Stock Racing Brushless Motor
Orion ORN140123800 mA-h LiPo graphite edition, Traxas Connector.
tires for Asphalt BSR XXPink/purple rears. BSRXXpink front.
John
One of the pleasures of bying an RC car is buying hopups for it to make it more customized for yourself. Many times the hopups that I have seen in photographs in the mags do nothing to improve the strength or performance of the car. Mostly they change the color and put Aluminum parts where there should be plastic parts for flexibility. Not so for the hopups, printed here; you can buy these for your battle axe or pan. I don't have the car yet but I expect it soon. Please, I don't need a third in a series negative post about this situation. A small manufacturer does his best to meet shipping deadlines, but problems creep up.
I have been driving Pan Cars for Several years. I have broken every part that it is possible to break. Often with an inexpensive substitution, or upgrade, you can prevent damage to the expensive parts of the car even in huge crashes. I don't really like breaking anything in the main as it causes a DNF (did not finish). If you are running a series this is especially important. Don't break in the main. There will be plenty of crashes in oval or World GT that are just unavoidable, like the guy spins just in front of you, and is heading backwards on the track for a moment. So if you are following my build up and would like to tag along by preordering some small parts here are some part numbers that might help you. Some of these will apply to any pan car.
First the Front End
I gave the Battle Axe Pro Strut Front end a good durability test on Ricks Battle Axe. It took me about two weeks to TQ, run fast lap and win with it. I found the front end as durable as an Associated front end with 3/16 inline Aluminum Axles. This 3/16 axle is a common oval and onroad setup. So do you need to buy something to improve it, well no. Can you buy an optional front end that is stronger right from CRC, yes. What you will find with this trailing axle setup is that you will hardly ever bend an axle or hinge pin. I never have bent the pin or axle in several years of running this setup. My road cars are traversing the track with speeds over 50 mph. Our side boads are 2 x 10 lumber. Hardly the forgiving type. My oval car, using this axle, has never bent the pin nor axle. The Front bearings have never separated into pieces and lost the wheel. This is a problem I experienced with a 3/16 axle after a meager bump into the side boards. So without apology I provide this optional set of parts for maximum durability. I will not promise improved performance. My test so far show similar performance, the CRC with stock parts, the associated with aftermarket long hinge pins and Wolfe springs, but I will look into this more in the future.
Optional CRC Ruggedized Front End (lighter or stronger parts in parenthesis)
1 CRC 1244 Upper Pivot, Upper A-arm Pivot 2.50
1 CRC 1251 Steering Block Front End, Traling Axle 1.99
(1 CRC 4277 Machined Delrin Steering Blocks, Trailing Axle 12.99)
1 CRC 1235 Steel Trailing Axles, 1/8 inch diameter 4.99
(1 CRC 4115 Trailing Titanium Stub Axle 14.99)
1 CRC 3246 Low Profile Plastic Pivot Balls 4.99
1 CRC 1252 Steel 6 x 32 front turnbuckle for Upper A-arm 4.99
(1 CRC 4274 Titanium 6 x 32 front Turnbuckle for Upper A-arm 5.99)
(CRC 3277 Cross Brace, Graphite, to eliminate cutting upper arms $15)
2 Associated 8425 King Pin Shim (10) 1.45 2.90
1 Losi A6088 1/8 x 1.246 inch TiN coated Hinge Pins for long Pan
Car Kingpin $5.95
(Lunsford 3066 XXXT-MFT Hinge Pin Set Titanium 24)
4 Avid RC Flanged 1/8 x 5/16 bearings for 1/8 axle Front Wheels 1.00 4.00
(4 CRC 12481 Flanged 1/8 x 5/16 bearings for 1/8 axle Front Wheels $3.49 13.96)
Subtotal minimum aproximately $32, Maximum with all titanium and Delrin $107
Do you need the titanium or Delrin parts for strength, no. Do you need to upgrade to win with this car. no. They are lighter and, well, cooler.
Hopups, Ruggedizing The Chassis
One very highly stressed and high wear parts on a center pivot link car is the center pivot and the side links. Stress is huge in a crash. What you dont want is the link to pull the screw up through the graphite. I had this happen once, but never again after this hopup. CRC has done a great job since the Pantoura by providing large headed steel screws for this important area. I go one step farther for outdoor speed and grit. I replace the aluminum pivot balls with a steell Losi Ball Nut and put a thin steel Bellevile (spring) washer from a Losi Diff Screw under the ball nut pointy side up. This distributes the load and the steel provides much better wear properties from outdoor grit. I also replace the center aluminum ball with a chrome steel unit which wears much better. When this part wears better the pivot remains smooth as silk much longer.
Hopups, Ruggedizing The Chassis
1 CRC 1378 Body Post Set. Extra center post for bumper 2.99
1 CRC 4274 Titanium 6 x 32 front Turnbuckle for Upper A-arm 5.99
1 CRC 1759 Foam Bumper 4.99
2 CRC 1420 Heavy Duty Body Clips 1.00 2.00
2 Losi A6009 Losi JRXS female ballstuds, ball nuts (replace soft aluminum) $5.90
1 Losi A2909 Diff Screw, Thin steel Belleville Washers under Ball nuts $3.29
1 CRC 1256 Chrome Pivot Ball with spacer, Replaces center pivot Aluminum Ball 2.99
1 Robinson Racing 1872 72 tooth stealth Pro Spur Gear, Pan Car, TC3/TC4 5.69
Lunsford 1064 Punisher Plus 1-3/8 inch Titanium Turnbuckles $12
1 Robinson Racing 1035 31 tooth Alloy Steel Pinion, Hard Nickel Silver Color $3.69
I have part numbers for the electronics in the previous post. All of these parts are heavy duty except the Servo. I am testing this smaller size. Pictures to come.
1226-21T HD (Toyota, High Downforce) 1/10 200 mm Pan Oval Body, Flat Track.
J Concepts 0110 Illusion 7.25 inch wide Touring Car Wing
HPI 85193 HPI Wing Mounts (includes low, med, high standoffs)
Hitec HTS32225 Mighty Mini Servo,.15/60deg speed, 61oz-in torque @4.8V
Use a KO 2431 ICS for a heavier duty servo that is still light and half height.
Kimbrough 131 Medium servo gear saver Hitec
Spektrum SR3500 Micro Racing Receiver
Novak 3413Novak SS 13.5 Pro Stock Racing Brushless Motor
Orion ORN140123800 mA-h LiPo graphite edition, Traxas Connector.
tires for Asphalt BSR XXPink/purple rears. BSRXXpink front.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-30-2008 at 11:29 AM.
