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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

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CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

Old 07-02-2011, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl
Thanks very much John if I am finding mid corner has to much steering would going to 10 deg reactive caster help then.
I may try you suggestion first

Scott
Yes. You can do both. I suggest caster first then reactive caster.
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Old 07-03-2011, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan
"currently running 5 deg block,2 white spacers behind upper arm 1 in front." That is 4 degrees of caster. Try running 3 white spacer behind and none in front of the arm (for 6 degrees of caster). Also stiffer front springs may be in order.
John
john sorry but one more question, this is really confusing me
how does moving the upper arm forward (3 spacers behind and none in front for 6 deg of caster) add caster, i thought adding caster would be laying the top of the king pin more towards the rear of the car. IE putting more spacers in front of the arm
i must be missing some thing or looking at it ass about
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:19 AM
  #1773  
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I used to get messed up wit hexactly the same thing. It's just weird geometry that's making it hard to undertstand. You (like me) are asssuming that the hinge-points are perpindicular, and the upper and lower arms are on a parralel axis. As far as I can eye-ball they aren't and that's what makes it work that way.
I think.
ha ha
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Old 07-03-2011, 01:14 PM
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It has confused me as well, but putting shims back moves the arm back, tilts the kingpin back, and adds caster. The center block is the stationary part.
john
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:54 PM
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thanks guys, it was not i didn't believe john, just trying to work it out in my head and it seemed the opposite of what i thought lol.
did try the 10 deg active caster block today and it was terrible so went back to 5 deg.
on another note my new ceramic nitride diff balls turned up today and what a difference very very nice.
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:02 AM
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The good old days, when my Gen X 10 Pro was fresh out of the box. So much good pan car info. John really put in the time!
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Old 03-01-2016, 12:18 PM
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Hi John,
hope you are still around. rely like your thinking out of the box. hope you have more to show.
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Old 10-20-2018, 10:58 PM
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diggin the battle axe

Last edited by MCSRacing; 10-20-2018 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 10-26-2018, 08:25 PM
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so is this thread dead?? or just intermittent.

any oval guys out there?



ORT


BattleAxe 3.0
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Old 01-23-2024, 04:51 AM
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Default John Stranahan's Scimitar

Hello. I'm back after a long a time. Probably just to read. The suspension on the Scimitar is properly described as a 3 link rear end with panhard bar. Twin rear shocks. There are several advantages over a center shock with center pivot or T plate. Primarily it is more supple like an 1985 mustang area end compared to the previous suspension. Additionally the shocks don't rub the shafts on top and bottom like a center shock. Less shock wear. The rear pod stays much more flat over the full travel so it an be set at track minimum and the rear of the main chassis can be set higher to keep from rubbing on the bumps. This leads to better side and forward traction as tracks tend not to be flat. The front is a dual A-arm for better camber control and again lower friction for better cornering and traction through the bumps. I have one of the prototypes still in hand. A good speed control is the Tekin Rx. This should keep you from frying it on high traction days when you might be pulling huge amps coming out of the corners with a 3.5.
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Old 01-23-2024, 04:59 AM
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Here is a pic if I am successful.

note beefy rear links hold adjustments much better.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-24-2024 at 04:38 AM. Reason: Add text.
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Old 01-23-2024, 05:27 AM
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Default Not my front end

Not my front end.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-26-2024 at 04:35 AM. Reason: Not my front end
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