DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I use the 44mm Swing shafts up front on my steering. Maxed out my steering.
You probably read my last posts. The CVD pin snapped in half and caused havoc and I had some vibration problems with the CVD.

Do you think it's better to go with 42mm upfront over 44mm?

Group B Monster

I never had any vibration problem since I got the 44MM in front and with a spool. the stock one is another story , you can see on this tread a photo of my stock dogbone wear really bad, because the stock cup are too deep. if you keep the stock bone setup, grind a little the cup can help that or put some Oring inside the cup.

Driftwoof if I remember you were the one that want to max out the steering by any mean ( stoper of the hub into the arm) and I think this is where your problem come from. Like I already told you this is too much, you have to remember you have a IFS setup and this piece was made for 416 that dont have this setup. Personaly I keep a good amount of clearance between the hub and the IFS pushrod.

Doing drift or grip without the steering max out is not a problem for me I got all the turning radius I want and I even trim a little with the TX Dual rate but im more a throttle drifter.

For the MM in front ( Stock block), its depend of many factor and the camber is one of them. If im in drift configuration I put the spool in the back and I use 0 camber and my 46mm with allu diff work but are tight but 1.5 degree and more they bind. When im in grip setup I use some camber and the spool in the front so I use the 44 in the front and put the 46 in the back

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

It's my fault for not mentioning this, but I have a TB-03D. It's not an IFS setup.

I discovered a new setup I really like:
Direct Coupling Front/Rear, Center One Way Shaft(Square RC).

Only thing is, for it to work best I need to max out my steering.
44mm CVD Front/Rear

Wheels wobbled after the pin broken half in the CVD. The CVD is rough and scratched up somewhat dented. Im going to wait until the parts come in install them and see if it fixes everything. Then I am going to put some heat shrink over the CVD to keep the pin from falling out in the event it breaks again.

redbones

What motor are you running? The cvd will chatter at full lock. That's just the nature of it. Unless you use the DCJ shafts that is... Either way, you use a fast motor, try not to mash full throttle at full lock. or limit you dual rate. I drift a little too, but never had to use use full lock except to correct the car.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

It split clear in 2.

I just installed the EZRun 9T 4300KV Brushless System prior to the pin snapping. I ran Castle Creations 4600, 2 different Novak 8.5T 5000 KV, Tamiya 12T System in it with no problems.

The EZrun seems to have allot of lock. I don't know what could have caused it too lock maybe it just happen to snap was faulty.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I tried everything. Completely full new set of CVDs with new universal joints and pins, New C Hubs, New Bearings.

I tried 44mm Swing shafts, I am about to try my 42mm swing shafts. Hopefully the wheels will stop vibrating wildly when I turn. Hopefully. They don't seem to do it when the wheels are off though. WHen the wheels are off they "seem" to be normal I can full throttle nothing vibrates.

Here it goes. :/

Update: So tested the 42mm. Same thing. With the wheels off it's fine. Works great. I still have the rotor hubs on too so there is rotating weight when I tested it with the wheels off.

So I thought there was something wrong with the wheels. Misshapen, too much dirt in the wheels causing it to be off balance, weight difference or warping basically. I stuck on HPI rims with no tires and it's started vibrating like crazy again as soon as I started turning on my radio. It's starts half way down on the steering radius when I turn to test it. It runs smooth when it's running straight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFcnOUJSX64

As you can see in the video, it runs fine straight. hen i turn it goes nuts.

berserk

iTrader: (1)

thus the vibration also occurs when your car is running on a surface? try adjusting your steering end point adjustments. or check if there is too much slop or movement in the C-hubs

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I have lest then stock steering radius when I used to have a maxed out steering radius that would not vibrate. It used to be fine before the Direct coupling was installed up front. No visible binding.

The C hubs are brand new, installed them today. Very firm. I never had a problem like this before.

It occurs on a surface.

berserk

iTrader: (1)

I am also using spool and my car vibrates too same as yours, but its fine when im running in the track. the problem is if the wheel is spinning to fast vibration occurs in the arms, c-hubs and steering and my tires binds with the lower pushrod turnbuckle. but it doesnt really affect my steering.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

You let it vibrate like that? I snapped a CVD pin cause of it. Is your vibration just as wild?

I don't think it's normal. I email Tamiya but no response yet about it.

UPDATE: I found this article read halfway down. They call it "universal chatter"

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

Can't run a Direct Coupling without vibration upfront. So I ran the center one way shaft, direct coupling in the rear and very tight front ball diff. All I can do. I wish i can get the direct coupling up front though without problems.

TB03D

atrain62

so i'm having trouble deciding between the tb-03 and the tt-01e. which kit do you think is better in your honest opinion? thanks!

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

TB03 no contest. It's just more capable.

SoCalGuy

Hey Guys,
Back into RC after a 20+ year lay off. Must be going through some kind of a mid life crisis! Anyway, starting to build the TB03. Purchased all the recommended hop-ups suggested from the article on TamiyaUsa. Will primarily be running with other guys from my work on the street and in parking lots; long straights, wide turns.

Regarding diff assembly:
Whats a good starting point when adjusting the slip? Fully tighten, then back off 1 turn?
Should the ring and pinion be lubricated, or will that cause unnecessary drag on the motor?

Regarding upgraded TRF shocks:
Please suggest a good starting weight for the oil (will probably start with the 3 hole piston as recommended), and any hints you may suggest in their assembly.

Thanks in advance; I appreciate all the good advice!

redbones

The diff can be slightly different from car to car. I only had to back off 1/4 turn to get it to my likings. But I also have a problem myself with the slippage of the diff. No matter how tight I make it, the diff slips upon acceleration from a dead start. It makes that noise(you know that rubbing sound). I generally don't put any lube on the gears. Never did for my old evo4, I don't think you need it for the TB03 either. The build of the gear box is crucial. You should be able to turn the entire drive line w/o wheels with little resistance. I little trick I found is to shave some material off of the input shaft inner bearing holder for the gear box. For both front and rear, this section prevented the gearbox from closing properly, thus creating bindage when screwed down. Others might be different so check first before shaving. When I did this, I could properly torque down the screws without creating drag.

As for the shock oil, I just use the AE45wt on all four. Can't get any MM oil here so I use what I can get. If it's colder where you are, you might want to try 35 or even 30.