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Old 09-29-2009, 07:32 AM   #1291
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For the longer arm , I dont know but I dont think its a very good idea, the kit is built this way and to give a certain amount of steering, with the universal,the steering upgrade+servo I have no problem get a good turn radius. If you want more radius than that you will need to mod the car, maybe shim the servo so its sit higher, or thing like that. But try the universal before doing any mod.

you will also need this part with your allu servo arm:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=51000
the arm wont fit with the stock part.
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:03 AM   #1292
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Yeah I have that part coming too.

I'm going to do nothing to my car until the parts come in. Install them and see if needs anything else. Once I get the steering to where I like it I can move on.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:32 PM   #1293
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I think you guys have figured this out already but remember if you have the direct coupling or the one way you need to use the 42mm shafts in the front, if not use the 44mm.

Roger
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:03 AM   #1294
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Well said, I hope that post comes in hand for those who didn't look at the manuel like me.

I'ma first time Tamiya runner.

How difficult is it to install the 3Racing Graphite Chassis? Have you guys seen that? I even noticed one for the TT-01 that actually makes it look good.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:12 AM   #1295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerHewson View Post
I think you guys have figured this out already but remember if you have the direct coupling or the one way you need to use the 42mm shafts in the front, if not use the 44mm.

Roger
I have the direct coupling on it's way, and I ordered the 44mm shafts. Will I have a problem?
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:32 AM   #1296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORMAN29 View Post
I have the direct coupling on it's way, and I ordered the 44mm shafts. Will I have a problem?
No, 44 mm shafts fit fine. That is the size I use and never had any problems.
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Last edited by Timmie; 09-30-2009 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:44 AM   #1297
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Thanks Timmie, good to know

What about those neopreme spacers, what do you guys use in the front and rear? The manual was a little confusing to me about the 1/2 sizes in the front only or something like that.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:58 AM   #1298
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Originally Posted by MOTORMAN29 View Post
Thanks Timmie, good to know
What about those neopreme spacers, what do you guys use in the front and rear? The manual was a little confusing to me about the 1/2 sizes in the front only or something like that.
You're welcome

Depends really on what diffs I'm running in the car. If I'm using a spool/direct coupling/one-way in the front I don't use any of the the foam spacers in the drive cups. With ball diffs I will sometimes use them to help keep some of the dirt from getting to the thrust bearing. Also if you can get the right size o-ring can work too. The hole of the o-ring will slip over the head of the diff adjusting bolt, allowing the o-ring to sit further down into the diff half. Then the o-ring will seal against the inner bore of the diff half, the top of the thrust bearing, and allow you to still make diff adjustments. Hope that makes sense
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:19 AM   #1299
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Yes it does make sense

I like the oring ide'r
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:48 AM   #1300
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Oh I wanted to post that I broke down and bought the fancy motor mount #54150 because I was curious if it was any lighter and because it looked very pretty

It weighs .9 grams less than the stock one so a little saved there, but it makes up for it in looks because it is very trick. Now I have the last part needed to make my second TB03 out of left over parts...rally car time
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:13 AM   #1301
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Default fried my diff joint

hi guys,
i just finish assembly on my new TB-03. changed the motor to speed passion comp. 3.0 brushless 3.5t wit ip 2s 5000mah 7.4v 40c lipo.
took it out on the first run. after a few minutes running the car, it was not moving but the motor is stil spinning.

opened the gear box cover n the diff joint thats holding the diff plate was damage. this happen to the front n rear diff joint. the plastic was torn. is it because it cant take a 3.5turn motor? do i hav to change to aluminum diff joint?
wer did i go wrong? pls help
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:23 AM   #1302
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I'm no expert cause I just checked mine last night and the same thing is happening to me except not that extreme. I blamed the failure on my diffs being too loose. But you might need a higher turn motor.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:34 AM   #1303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyboo View Post
hi guys,
i just finish assembly on my new TB-03. changed the motor to speed passion comp. 3.0 brushless 3.5t wit ip 2s 5000mah 7.4v 40c lipo.
took it out on the first run. after a few minutes running the car, it was not moving but the motor is stil spinning.

opened the gear box cover n the diff joint thats holding the diff plate was damage. this happen to the front n rear diff joint. the plastic was torn. is it because it cant take a 3.5turn motor? do i hav to change to aluminum diff joint?
wer did i go wrong? pls help
Whoa brother, you cooked that good!

You need to run the aluminum diffs if you want to have that much power
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=716&id=8053
The plastic diffs can't hold the diff rings in place without twisting out and melting running that much power. The aluminum ones can handle a 4turn with 2s lipo no problem as I have run that setup in my TB03 no problem. Along with the aluminum diff upgrade I highly recommend getting ceramic diff balls as well
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=619&id=7735
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:42 AM   #1304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyboo View Post
hi guys,
i just finish assembly on my new TB-03. changed the motor to speed passion comp. 3.0 brushless 3.5t wit ip 2s 5000mah 7.4v 40c lipo.
took it out on the first run. after a few minutes running the car, it was not moving but the motor is stil spinning.

opened the gear box cover n the diff joint thats holding the diff plate was damage. this happen to the front n rear diff joint. the plastic was torn. is it because it cant take a 3.5turn motor? do i hav to change to aluminum diff joint?
wer did i go wrong? pls help
Hi dirtyboo,
I think you are right about the power from your motor! Yeah, you should get the alu diff joint.
Even so, with so much power, it is important to have your drivetrain very well build. Check all gear meshings (between your bevels and diffs, motor pinion to spur). Make sure the plastic shoe on the UJs are thick with enough meat. If not, the pin on the UJ will eat into your alu diff joints.

These are some of the basic items you should take care of when you are running low turn motors. The enjoyment will last much longer!

Cheers!!
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:32 PM   #1305
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too nice keeping it

Last edited by fat500; 10-01-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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