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Old 09-21-2009, 11:33 AM   #1216
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Here is another vid from the race yesterday. The TB03 is the red car with the silver wing. Don't mind my driving
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-21-2009, 12:48 PM   #1217
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Well I just checked my steering. I am going to leave the ball stud on the steering knuckles hole that's in the instructions.

I turn my controller wheel all the way to the LEFT/RIGHT, the steering knuckles wont hit the stopper. Enough space left to stick a penny or nickel in. Servo Problem?

I suspect my controller is limiting my servo. Fatuba T2PH
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:13 PM   #1218
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If anyone is interested, I have a TB-03 w/ Tamiya hop ups that I will be listing for sale soon. TCS legal. PM if interested. Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:19 PM   #1219
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Going back to the posts on shock building, do you guys not like shock slimes for the TRF shocks or do you feel properly lubing your O-rings is enough?
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:36 PM   #1220
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Originally Posted by Group B Monster View Post
Yes that how I did it , I put some oil on the o ring , then put some on the thread of the shaft before insert the shaft , they slowly fill it and let it there for around 45 min to bleed, there are no air inside when I finish built them , its just the spacer oring think that create a leak and air can go inside , I Know about the 3 mm shim but the Hobby shop was out , but I will add them when I get some.

Maybe if I pick the blue o ring competition and replace the spacer with another oring that can help a little. The stock damper have 2 oring and I never had this problem with them.

I will try to put them upside down in the front a least if there some bubble or air they not gonna be at the 3 hole but at the top of the cylinder.

also the shock are a bit short for the height I put my car at ( I like to run around 8 mm) because I only bash in a school parking for now , because the track in my area are at 3:30 from my home. I wonder if I remove the Oring the manual recommend inside the shock I will gain lenght but is there any downside to remove this Oring? I hear somewhere they run the damper at 61.5mm but to got this 61.5 mm I have to unscrew half the bottom retener.

Any downside effect to run them with a little air since im only bashing? I may not be able to get those 3 mm shim before a little while
You can run your shocks longer no problem just unscrew the eyelets at the end of the shaft to the shock length you want. You can have a few threads showing its not a problem, the load on the shock is up and down not side to side so it shouldn't come off unless you wrecked really hard.

Yeah air won't hurt it at all. If you are just out having fun don't worry about it
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:44 PM   #1221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesxman View Post
Going back to the posts on shock building, do you guys not like shock slimes for the TRF shocks or do you feel properly lubing your O-rings is enough?
I just soak my orings in shock oil. When I would re build off road shocks I used that slime stuff but to be honest, I didn't really notice a difference. And I still had to rebuild shocks all the time from jumping around a lot. So it was just more time to build shocks for me. But onroad, I haven't tried yet maybe I should, its just been a habit of mine not to. Oh and don't use motor spray on the o-rings. I might be wrong, but I swear it deteriorates them and causes leaks.
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:45 PM   #1222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesxman View Post
Going back to the posts on shock building, do you guys not like shock slimes for the TRF shocks or do you feel properly lubing your O-rings is enough?
I personally do not like slims for touring car. They make the shock too in consistant. IMO

Beautiful for off road though.
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:05 AM   #1223
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I'm switching up a bit to run RCGT. I bought a 17.5 and need to get some tires and rims.

First question is X pattern compound for carpet? Which offset wheel? Wider is better?

Second, what final drive and I trying to target with the 17.5?
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Old 09-22-2009, 09:12 AM   #1224
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Originally Posted by CSaddict View Post
I'm switching up a bit to run RCGT. I bought a 17.5 and need to get some tires and rims.

First question is X pattern compound for carpet? Which offset wheel? Wider is better?

Second, what final drive and I trying to target with the 17.5?

Depending on your set up and how much traction your carpet track has.

I think a safe bet would be Pro belted tires. D's work good as well but require a real soft suspension set up to make them work 100%.

Wheel wise I would say 0 front 3 rear if you're running 190mm body if 200mm run 3mm/6mm.

Depending a lot on your speed control and how tight your track is I'd start at 3.7FDR

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Old 09-22-2009, 09:55 AM   #1225
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I'm running a 200 body atm but have both. I was figuring widen the car up and it will be more stable. So 3.7 fdr huh? What would I be better off with as far as a spur and pinion to get there? I have the chart from a few pages back but my LHS doesn't think the little spur will work thinking the motor throw isn't enough to mesh properly.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:50 AM   #1226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSaddict View Post
I'm running a 200 body atm but have both. I was figuring widen the car up and it will be more stable. So 3.7 fdr huh? What would I be better off with as far as a spur and pinion to get there? I have the chart from a few pages back but my LHS doesn't think the little spur will work thinking the motor throw isn't enough to mesh properly.
Wider makes the car "quicker" in sense of steering. Narrow is stable.

Narrow is fast, Wide is quick.

Topic for another post.....


I use a 72t 64p spur on my car almost exclusively. With it I can run a 47t pinion and get 3.73.

This also brings the motor closer to center line futher helping balance out a lipo pack. The big pinions can be tricky to make fit. I've had to modify my chassis a bit to get 54+ pinions in there.


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Old 09-22-2009, 12:42 PM   #1227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
Wider makes the car "quicker" in sense of steering. Narrow is stable.

Narrow is fast, Wide is quick.

Topic for another post.....


I use a 72t 64p spur on my car almost exclusively. With it I can run a 47t pinion and get 3.73.

This also brings the motor closer to center line futher helping balance out a lipo pack. The big pinions can be tricky to make fit. I've had to modify my chassis a bit to get 54+ pinions in there.


Jimmy
Thanks for the help I will track those down to start with.
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:25 AM   #1228
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I think I found out what was causing the problem with the steering radius being so wide.

-I have my servo centered.
-The Turnbuckles are perfect as it drives straight.

When I try to turn my steering knuckles freely all the way to the stopper they both stop about 2-3mm away from the stopper on each side evenly and gets stiff until i force it to the stopper. The dogbone is about to come out of the wheel axis when I push the steering knuckle to the stopper this and it creates friction the last 2-3mm to the stopper and the servo is not strong enough to push it through that.

I hope you guys can understand what I am saying.

So I got these.
They are universal shafts for my TB-03D. Will they solve this problem?

I also have my ball stub on the steering knuckles arms second hole, not stock. it turns better but the toe is out more. I will put it back if the universal joints give me the steering radius back.



OFF TOPIC, but does anyone know if there is a difference between a front one way and a center one way? If there both one way, what's the difference?

Last edited by DriftWoof; 09-23-2009 at 03:32 AM.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:19 AM   #1229
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Originally Posted by Timmie View Post

Yeah 17.5 has come a long way as far as speed goes, they are as fast as 13.5 was a year ago thanks to esc technology. Yes, lipo's and FDR in that vid was 6.32FDR. But wait till you see a TB03 with 2s lipo and a 4.0 motor Its really too fast haha

.....


Do you have a rough idea of the length of the length of the straight away and the course layout....flowing/or technical?
Hi!
I'm looking forward to that video then

Hmmm...not quite sure exactly how long the straight of the track is. 20-30m thereabouts maybe? A mid-sized flowing outdoor track with a couple of fat hairpins I tried google earth but the track doesn't show (pity!) In any case, I caved in and got myself a speedpassion esc and ultrasportsman motor. I'm having a little buyer's-remorse as far as the motor is concerned due to its rather low rpm/kv rating- just 3000 compared to 3500 for the Competition motor. Perhaps I should have splurged on the better motor, but I was really feeling the pinch to the wallet. Ah well.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:03 AM   #1230
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Originally Posted by DriftWoof View Post
I think I found out what was causing the problem with the steering radius being so wide.

-I have my servo centered.
-The Turnbuckles are perfect as it drives straight.

When I try to turn my steering knuckles freely all the way to the stopper they both stop about 2-3mm away from the stopper on each side evenly and gets stiff until i force it to the stopper. The dogbone is about to come out of the wheel axis when I push the steering knuckle to the stopper this and it creates friction the last 2-3mm to the stopper and the servo is not strong enough to push it through that.

I hope you guys can understand what I am saying.

So I got these.
They are universal shafts for my TB-03D. Will they solve this problem?

I also have my ball stub on the steering knuckles arms second hole, not stock. it turns better but the toe is out more. I will put it back if the universal joints give me the steering radius back.



OFF TOPIC, but does anyone know if there is a difference between a front one way and a center one way? If there both one way, what's the difference?
On the one ways;

A front one way acts like an open diff off power and a spool on power (to some extent). A center one way still allows the use of a diff up front for more tuning options and steering characteristics.

Personally I've never liked one ways. AWD all the time.
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