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Old 09-20-2009, 02:48 PM   #1201
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Double post sorry.
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:49 PM   #1202
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I managed to get a HPI Trueno body on my Tamiya TB-03D fairly easily. I think it looks better when you cut out the body kit on it. The wheels wells in back are not in line with the wheel(not talking about offset) but the from wheels are in the middle of the wheel well when looking at the car from the side.

Thanks for your help. Although, I encountered another serious problem. Not a real problem but it is to me.

The stock steering radius. It's even on both sides and drives in near perfect straight lines. I used a caliper on my turn buckles to so I knows the turnbuckles are fine. Also my friends TB-03D he just got is the same way.

Still though, the steering radius is pretty wide compared to my old Yokomo or HPI Sprint 2. I max out my steering when I drift and it's still not enough. I can't do the same lines I did with my HPI or Yokomo no where near as easily as the HPI or Yokomo.

How can I make my steering radius tighter?
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:45 PM   #1203
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Originally Posted by DriftWoof View Post
I managed to get a HPI Trueno body on my Tamiya TB-03D fairly easily. I think it looks better when you cut out the body kit on it. The wheels wells in back are not in line with the wheel(not talking about offset) but the from wheels are in the middle of the wheel well when looking at the car from the side.

Thanks for your help. Although, I encountered another serious problem. Not a real problem but it is to me.

The stock steering radius. It's even on both sides and drives in near perfect straight lines. I used a caliper on my turn buckles to so I knows the turnbuckles are fine. Also my friends TB-03D he just got is the same way.

Still though, the steering radius is pretty wide compared to my old Yokomo or HPI Sprint 2. I max out my steering when I drift and it's still not enough. I can't do the same lines I did with my HPI or Yokomo no where near as easily as the HPI or Yokomo.

How can I make my steering radius tighter?
use the front holes on your steering knuckles.
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:01 PM   #1204
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use the front holes on your steering knuckles.
Do I have to adjust anything else or just switch the ball studs to the front hole and connect?

Thats the hole furthest away from where the bearings are inserted? right?
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:41 PM   #1205
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Do I have to adjust anything else or just switch the ball studs to the front hole and connect?

Thats the hole furthest away from where the bearings are inserted? right?
This setting will change your toe settings a little and also change your steering ackerman. You will have a lot of steering after doing this. For what you are doing just change the setting and try it out. Takes a minute to do.

Not sure what servo saver you are using, but alternative to the ackerman change would be to use a longer servo arm. I have a Kimbrough med. saver on my car and turning left to right I can hit the stops on c-hubs if I wanted too.

Sounds to me more like you need change your setup. Stock, the car turns pretty tight. Maybe you should stiffen the rear some or take some toe out of the rear.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:14 PM   #1206
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Do I have to adjust anything else or just switch the ball studs to the front hole and connect?

Thats the hole furthest away from where the bearings are inserted? right?
Hi, I think it should be the hole nearer to the bearings. The stock setting (Manual recommended, Step 17) should be the hole that's further away.

When you use the hole that is nearer, please do double check your steering EPA (Steering Throw). Without resetting, I suspect, the servo travel will be more that what the knuckles can (dependent on the length of the servo saver).

So do look into this and back off some of your travel.

Cheers!!
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Old 09-21-2009, 12:52 AM   #1207
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Hi TNS,
I think a general starting point FDR for a 23T motor should be around 5.5. Aggressive gearing can bring this down just below 5, but this is really border line case for your esc or motor.
From there, you really should base your next step on the motor and esc temperature. For motors, if you can keep it in the 70*C region, its ok. Region of 80*C can do for short term, but will shorten motor life quite a bit.

With no regards to weight, Lipo will maintain better voltage through out your run in contrast to NiMh. Maybe those really nice racing/match cells can compare (they have to be brand new too).

Good luck to your race!

Cheers!!
Kerk - thanks for the advice. With regards to the batteries, yeah, I'll be at a disadvantage vs the guys using lipo (ie all of them ? ) but for me it's just a choice not to use lipos (for the usual reasons anyone might prefer to not run lipos...) I'll probably end up in the c-mains - will see how I do there
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Old 09-21-2009, 02:41 AM   #1208
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Do you guys suspect that it may be my radio controller that is limiting my steering radius? It's been turned to the middles many times.

I can still turn more when I urn the steering wheel hard.

My controller.
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Old 09-21-2009, 07:48 AM   #1209
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here is a vid of my TB03 in action. Sorry for the crappy quality. My car is the red one battling against the white car which is a TA05MS. Like Timmie said, the TB03 is a formidable contender in 17.5 against any high end model.

Hey thats a nice video thanks for posting it up Looks like a fun track to race on.
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:03 AM   #1210
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Thanks for posting the videos guys! Always great to see TB03s in action!
Your welcome glad you enjoyed it

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timmie - that's 17.5T BL? That's pretty fast - what was your FDR and were you using lipos?
Yeah 17.5 has come a long way as far as speed goes, they are as fast as 13.5 was a year ago thanks to esc technology. Yes, lipo's and FDR in that vid was 6.32FDR. But wait till you see a TB03 with 2s lipo and a 4.0 motor Its really too fast haha

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I'm giving serious consideration to taking part in my first RC competition in a couple of weeks. It'll be a 11.5t (BL)/23T open stock race. We can use any car (tires are controlled though) Some of the people who signed up are running TRFs, cyclones and X-Rays - not quite the amateur race I was hoping it would be
Thats great! If you need any help let us know! Don't be concerned with the cars the others are driving, I beat Xrays weekly with my TB03 In this motor class you will probably have the advantage anyway.

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If I do take part, I'll likely to be running brushed (Tamiya superstock RZ) as I'm reluctant to be spending on yet another BL motor at the moment. What will be a good FDR for this? Any recommendations? I'm be using 6-cell NiMHs, if that makes a difference...
Do you have a rough idea of the length of the length of the straight away and the course layout....flowing/or technical?
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:07 AM   #1211
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This one is waiting for my TB-03D to be finished!
Wow thats really nice! I love seeing everyone's cars Where did you get the exhaust tip for your Supra? That is really realistic, even down to the bluing on the end. Man, seeing all these drift cars makes me want to order a set of those drift rims and tires haha
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:27 AM   #1212
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Hi guys, I just receive another batch of hop up to add to my tb03 and I have some question.

I got some trf shock the kit #42102 to be exact and I built them like the manual with the silicone O ring and the spacer then the guide. I remove all the air and close them and they are good and you dont hear any air sound going on inside. But as soon as you put them in the car specialy the front they pick up some air and start to sound like squiick sound. What I did wrong?
I use hex ball also so I did not force them into the ball ( I put the ball before the assembly). Look like they dont like to be laid down.
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:44 AM   #1213
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Hi guys, I just receive another batch of hop up to add to my tb03 and I have some question.

I got some trf shock the kit #42102 to be exact and I built them like the manual with the silicone O ring and the spacer then the guide. I remove all the air and close them and they are good and you dont hear any air sound going on inside. But as soon as you put them in the car specialy the front they pick up some air and start to sound like squiick sound. What I did wrong?
I use hex ball also so I did not force them into the ball ( I put the ball before the assembly). Look like they dont like to be laid down.
What method did you use to bleed the air? (The pump... not so good)

Make sure when you do a fresh rebuild that you put shock fluid in the area of the o ring and spacers. Its somewhat messy until you get the hang of it. Then with the shock body tilted about 45 degrees put a little shock fluid in the body (just enough to where it reaches the hole) then slide in the piston and shaft assy. Pull all the way through. Then add just a little more fluid, (about 1/2 full) push and pull the shock shaft up and down twisting it to release any air bubbles making sure you do not push the piston out of the fluid. Now pull the piston all the way down and stand upright either in a shock stand or through the center of a wheel. Build the next one etc.

Give them ample time (5 minutes or so) so the air bubbles can rise to the top and disperse. Then fill to the top, squish the bladder in place, pushing it in a bit more than just setting it on top add your foam and install your cap. No air.


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Old 09-21-2009, 09:48 AM   #1214
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Originally Posted by Group B Monster View Post
Hi guys, I just receive another batch of hop up to add to my tb03 and I have some question.

I got some trf shock the kit #42102 to be exact and I built them like the manual with the silicone O ring and the spacer then the guide. I remove all the air and close them and they are good and you dont hear any air sound going on inside. But as soon as you put them in the car specialy the front they pick up some air and start to sound like squiick sound. What I did wrong?
I use hex ball also so I did not force them into the ball ( I put the ball before the assembly). Look like they dont like to be laid down.
The shocks have a little bit of free play between the e-clips and the shock piston when you have them all assembled on the shock shaft. It might be causing the sound you are describing. When I build my shock shafts, I install one e-clip. Then one .01/3mm shim, then the piston, then the second e-clip. I think this is a kit of them in different thicknesses http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53585

But I have noticed what you are seeing before. Its another reason I usually run my shocks upside down compared to others. Doing so seems to keep the shocks pack better. Rebuild the fronts and try it out to see if it helps you.
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:46 AM   #1215
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Yes that how I did it , I put some oil on the o ring , then put some on the thread of the shaft before insert the shaft , they slowly fill it and let it there for around 45 min to bleed, there are no air inside when I finish built them , its just the spacer oring think that create a leak and air can go inside , I Know about the 3 mm shim but the Hobby shop was out , but I will add them when I get some.

Maybe if I pick the blue o ring competition and replace the spacer with another oring that can help a little. The stock damper have 2 oring and I never had this problem with them.

I will try to put them upside down in the front a least if there some bubble or air they not gonna be at the 3 hole but at the top of the cylinder.

also the shock are a bit short for the height I put my car at ( I like to run around 8 mm) because I only bash in a school parking for now , because the track in my area are at 3:30 from my home. I wonder if I remove the Oring the manual recommend inside the shock I will gain lenght but is there any downside to remove this Oring? I hear somewhere they run the damper at 61.5mm but to got this 61.5 mm I have to unscrew half the bottom retener.

Any downside effect to run them with a little air since im only bashing? I may not be able to get those 3 mm shim before a little while
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