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Old 09-17-2009, 11:39 AM   #1186
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That be nice but price is a bigger thing for me. http://www.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4044

http://www.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4048

Are all the Tamiya ones 5mm x 5mm for shocks? What about turnbuckles?
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:40 AM   #1187
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Whether you use the steel or the aluminum make sure they are the Tamiya original parts.

Tamiya units fit together better than anything aftermarket. Nothing like spending all that money to have brand new parts not fit correctly.

(ie too much slop)



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Old 09-17-2009, 10:01 PM   #1188
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What size do i need for the shocks?

5x5 or 5x8???

I ordered these for my front/rear shocks. https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53968

Last edited by DriftWoof; 09-18-2009 at 03:59 AM.
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Old 09-18-2009, 02:46 PM   #1189
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Ok got my new TB03 video posted up to YouTube I will be making some more in the future showing what the car can do with more and more power I've got a few people to set straight on some things hehehe. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3exonc6Jzo


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Just noticed that its still updating so video quality may be poor for a bit till its finished.
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Old 09-19-2009, 01:54 AM   #1190
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here is a vid of my TB03 in action. Sorry for the crappy quality. My car is the red one battling against the white car which is a TA05MS. Like Timmie said, the TB03 is a formidable contender in 17.5 against any high end model.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Last edited by inpuressa; 09-19-2009 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 09-19-2009, 08:30 AM   #1191
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Thanks for posting the videos guys! Always great to see TB03s in action!

timmie - that's 17.5T BL? That's pretty fast - what was your FDR and were you using lipos?

I'm giving serious consideration to taking part in my first RC competition in a couple of weeks. It'll be a 11.5t (BL)/23T open stock race. We can use any car (tires are controlled though) Some of the people who signed up are running TRFs, cyclones and X-Rays - not quite the amateur race I was hoping it would be

If I do take part, I'll likely to be running brushed (Tamiya superstock RZ) as I'm reluctant to be spending on yet another BL motor at the moment. What will be a good FDR for this? Any recommendations? I'm be using 6-cell NiMHs, if that makes a difference...

Cheers!
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:42 AM   #1192
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Hi TNS,
I think a general starting point FDR for a 23T motor should be around 5.5. Aggressive gearing can bring this down just below 5, but this is really border line case for your esc or motor.
From there, you really should base your next step on the motor and esc temperature. For motors, if you can keep it in the 70*C region, its ok. Region of 80*C can do for short term, but will shorten motor life quite a bit.

With no regards to weight, Lipo will maintain better voltage through out your run in contrast to NiMh. Maybe those really nice racing/match cells can compare (they have to be brand new too).

Good luck to your race!

Cheers!!
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:53 PM   #1193
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What size do i need for the shocks?

5x5 or 5x8???

I ordered these for my front/rear shocks. https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53968

Also, is the chassis 190mm or 200mm? Can it fit both sizes?
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:15 PM   #1194
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Default tb03

IVE BEEN RUNNING THE KIT FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW AND I MUST SAYS IT GAVE TA05 A RUN FOR ITS MONEY.

1.DOES TAMIYA PRODUCE AN ADJUSTER WITH HOLES ON IT OR YOU GUYS JUST DRILL HOLES TO THE PLASTIC PART?

2. WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER AND THE PART NAME OF THE WHITE GEAR (PICTURE ATTACHED BELOW)?

3. WHAT SPRINGS AND OIL DO YOU SUGGEST FOR THE CAR NOT TO BE UNDERSTEER?

THANKS!

RICO
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:18 PM   #1195
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This one is waiting for my TB-03D to be finished!



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Old 09-19-2009, 10:18 PM   #1196
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meh, I just fitted the 3racing aluminium steering components, there is now the same or maybe more slop then when the original parts were fitted.
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:46 PM   #1197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metla View Post
meh, I just fitted the 3racing aluminium steering components, there is now the same or maybe more slop then when the original parts were fitted.
The only advantage i see in that is it uses ball bearings

I went from that to the tamiya one and boy, what a difference.
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:34 AM   #1198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift and Sleek View Post
IVE BEEN RUNNING THE KIT FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW AND I MUST SAYS IT GAVE TA05 A RUN FOR ITS MONEY.

1.DOES TAMIYA PRODUCE AN ADJUSTER WITH HOLES ON IT OR YOU GUYS JUST DRILL HOLES TO THE PLASTIC PART?

2. WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER AND THE PART NAME OF THE WHITE GEAR (PICTURE ATTACHED BELOW)?

3. WHAT SPRINGS AND OIL DO YOU SUGGEST FOR THE CAR NOT TO BE UNDERSTEER?

THANKS!

RICO
Rico,

some answers for you.

1. i just drill through the ball cup using a body reamer. the reason you want a hole there is because you're using a hex head ball stud. you can unscrew it without popping off the ball cup (which after excessive use will loosen.) this makes changing the spacers easier.

2. the gear in that photo is a Xenon spur gear. they come in a variety of different sizes. visit www.speedtechrc.com - Jeff is the owner, and he has all the different sizes (for 64P and 48P).

3. this is too broad of a question. we'll need to know the body, motor, tire, inserts you are using as well as track conditions. provide these and one of us can point you in the right direction in terms of set up.

- C
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:25 AM   #1199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki View Post
Rico,

some answers for you.

1. i just drill through the ball cup using a body reamer. the reason you want a hole there is because you're using a hex head ball stud. you can unscrew it without popping off the ball cup (which after excessive use will loosen.) this makes changing the spacers easier.

2. the gear in that photo is a Xenon spur gear. they come in a variety of different sizes. visit www.speedtechrc.com - Jeff is the owner, and he has all the different sizes (for 64P and 48P).

3. this is too broad of a question. we'll need to know the body, motor, tire, inserts you are using as well as track conditions. provide these and one of us can point you in the right direction in terms of set up.

- C

HEBIKI

BODY- ARTA GARAIYA
MOTOR- SILVER CAN
TIRE- STOCK 24MM TAMIYA SLICK TIRES
INSERT- STOCK INSERTS
TRACK ASPALT

THANKS!
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Old 09-20-2009, 07:05 AM   #1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftWoof View Post
What size do i need for the shocks?

5x5 or 5x8???

I ordered these for my front/rear shocks. https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=53968

Also, is the chassis 190mm or 200mm? Can it fit both sizes?
Hi Drftwoof,
For your shocks, you need this, "RC 5mm Ball Connector"
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...uct-id=9804205

EP (Electric Powered) cars generally are 190mm chassis. For drifting, people tends to run 200mm covers, this will allow them to choose rims with plenty of offset. This will provide the deep dish look.
I personally uses a bashed up HPI GS (200mm) cover mated to Front=7mm offset, Rear=10mm offset Speedway Pal rims. Standard suspension arms are used, not the short reversible arms.

In this picture, its fitted with HPI rims from its LP series. Its the inch up version of rims. The Front=6mm offset, Rear=9mm offset.



Cheers!!
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