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Old 09-07-2009, 10:48 PM   #1096
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Just for the record I run the 46mm CV drives on my TB. No issues with clearance BUT I also run the stock suspension blocks.

Chris Vierra and I have officially (unofficial of course) given "TB" a name......

Tarmac Bullet!!


Round 4 of the RCGT Showdown was yesterday at Speedtech R/C and we had a great turnout. Once again it was Paul D, Jeffry Lin and myself battling with 7 others for top points.

I managed to squeak out the TQ for top points there. In the main I had a semi comfortable lead and clipped a dot early on giving Jeffry the lead with me right behind. I followed for 3-4 laps and decided I needed to try a move in the first corner as I was faster in the first half of the track where he was faster in the second half. I drove in really tight to go under him and traction rolled!! ARGH!!

This allowed Paul D to grab second and me third right behind. At this point Jeffry was gone. At the 5:30 mark I clipped that same dot as before and slowed back to about 7 seconds behind Paul. I knew I had to catch him to retain my points lead so I set out on a mission and with one lap to go I caught Paul and knowing that he drives tight lines I thought to myself "I don't think I can get by" and then he made the slightest of bobbles and my TB was lined up to take advantage and I snuck inside and took second with just 3 corners to go!

Jeffry Lin took first, I ended up second and Paul D third.

With My TQ and Jeffry's second it gave us 100pts and 98pts respectively

Jeffry winning and my second gave us same points respectively so round 4 was a wash allowing me to retain my points lead!

WHEW! 2 more rounds to go!!


Jimmy Wright


Timmie.... I ran the RX7 this weekend with Tamiya's race wing.... DIALED!
It has R35 steering and is probably a bit faster in the switch backs yet all things stock the RX7 is probably more stable. I also practiced with the Vette and its very stable! It just doesn't have the down force in front to be agile but, it is still better handling than I thought it would be.

I have an R35 coming your way tomorrow.
Tarmac bullet I like that

Grats on 2nd and TQ! Nice save and come back! Glad to know your still in the lead. I have a strong feeling by the end of things, the series will be called JWGT

Your race sounded like my weekend.. I Tqed on saturday, radio died in the main and started beeping and vibrating in my hands,(4PK has one hell of a vibration function!) I hit a corner dot because it startled me and then my radio went into failsafe LOL! Sunday at another track, I Tqed and then in the main hit a corner dot and just flew off the track But I did run myself back up to 2nd atleast


Yeah the rx rocks it just feels good. I like the vette for high speeds, but your right it doesn't have a lot of front. That's why I ran a little body tilt with it. Try it if you get bored hehe. Oooo sweet, I'll be on the look out for it
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Last edited by Timmie; 09-08-2009 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:59 PM   #1097
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A question for those who are racing this chassis, I'm looking to get more steering when entering corners, would the centre one way or the front one way be recommended? and what are the pro's and cons of each?

I can only afford one or the other.
If you plan on running a ball diff up front then the center one way will give you a little more turning entering corners. It will be a little milder than a one way as far as how aggressively it turns in but will have the same on power steering as a car with dual ball diffs. You will have slightly more stable braking running a center one way versus a one way up front.

A one way up front will give you very aggressive turn in entering the corners. On power steering will also be very aggressive, the same as if running a spool. Braking with a one way, unless the traction available is very high, is not very stable. You will have to be very gentle with the brakes or either turn your epa down a lot.
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:00 PM   #1098
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I have run the car with ball diffs and never had a issue with the dog bones falling out. Maybe I got lucky
Your not hitting things hard enough, I dropped the left rear dogbone twice on Sunday.
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Old 09-07-2009, 11:03 PM   #1099
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Some very cool info.
Much appreciated, I'll go for the centre one way.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:14 PM   #1100
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Damn!

I finished my paintjob just before finding out that i left my camera at home (i live in stuttgart and nuremberg). You guys will have to wait until sunday. Then i can show you my GT-R 35
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Old 09-08-2009, 02:07 PM   #1101
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Looking forward to se your R35!

How much offset can be used on the TB-03D/with uppgrade kit with the 190mm bodie?
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Old 09-08-2009, 04:07 PM   #1102
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I had the same problem with steering in the front. I added the center oneway and it improved by about 40%. I was running the front diff very tight. I then loosened the front diff so it is very smooth...equal to the rear and that gave wayyy more steering ,so much that i had to turn down the epa on the radio to 68%. This is the setup i will race with for a while. I like to throw the car into a tight corner and take it with out brakes so this setup is working great for me right now. I also run 1 step harder springs in the rear. Hope this helps
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:41 PM   #1103
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Hmm Not sure about that, I will have to check with my friend and Yokomo expert Jimmy Mac.

If you were using that diff setup in your yokee, it should feel the same with the TB. But like I said before, you should really experiment with different diff configurations...You won't know if you like it till you try it yourself.
Wow, that'd be great if you asked them'. I have both a Yokomo MR4TC SD and my TB-03D. They are both nearly built the same with extremely similar parts.

I love the feel of my Yokomos Locked Front/Rear and the One Way Shaft. I figured a Front One Way and a Direct(Spool) in back would be the same. I'm pretty sure it be the same. Are they the same??? I do this so I wont have to buy a Spool for the Front and Rear and a One Way Center since I think they are the same.

Later when I have more $ I will try out more options.


My nexts mods will be Droop, shocks.

Do HPI bodies fit the TB-03 without having to drill your own holes by lining up the body?
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:32 PM   #1104
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HPI bodies are close, not exact. they need to be lined up to fit properly.
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:26 PM   #1105
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I got some questions i need help with,

I did a lot of reading but didn't find the answer. I want to get the carbon reinforced F/R arms, is the pn 51104 or 53928?

according to Taimya the description for these are:
"Compatible chassis: TB Evo.5 TB Evo.4, TB Evo.4MS, TRF415MSX, TRF415MS and other chassis capable of using Reversible Suspension Arm. (Depending on type of suspension block, swing shaft may have to be changed from 46mm to 42mm length."

should that be 46mm to 44mm?

I find the 44mm swing shafts (pn 54078) and the lightweight rear (pn 54077). Since the lightweight says "rear" is that for the rear only? do they have a lightweight for the front?
and I imagine if I get the swing shafts i'll need the cross joint (pn 53500) and wheel axles (pn 54076).

(I know this is alot of questions but if I don't type it now I'll forget later.)

Also will pn 51332,51333 and 54031 fit? and they are carbon reinforced right?

And last question, If i want to run 26mm HPI x pattern tire, what offset wheels do I need?

Thank you!
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Old 09-09-2009, 01:48 PM   #1106
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And last question, If i want to run 26mm HPI x pattern tire, what offset wheels do I need?

Thank you!
This post ought to help:

Tamiya TB-03
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:03 PM   #1107
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and I read through that page today......

so I read it a couple of times and I can up with 3mm offset 26mm wheels will do the trick, right
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:26 PM   #1108
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I got some questions i need help with, I did a lot of reading but didn't find the answer. I want to get the carbon reinforced F/R arms, is the pn 51104 or 53928?

They are both carbon reinforced, the difference being 51104 is the standard length arms and 53928 is the short arm version. 51104 is easy to identify by the 3 lower shock mounting holes used on one side of the arm. 53928 only has 2 available on either side. 51104 was the standard arm used until 416WE and EVO5MS....both of these use 53928 from the factory. The TB03 comes with the short arm version but made out of plastic. So to keep wheel base the same with kit blocks you would want 53928

that be 46mm to 44mm?

For the shafts 51104 you will need 46mm. For 53928 you can use either of the two.

find the 44mm swing shafts (pn 54078) and the lightweight rear (pn 54077). Since the lightweight says "rear" is that for the rear only? do they have a lightweight for the front?
and I imagine if I get the swing shafts i'll need the cross joint (pn 53500) and wheel axles (pn 54076).

If you want to run a spool or one way up front, you will need 54078 for durability. If you run a ball diff up front you can use the lightweight shafts all the way around with no problems. The reason they list 54077 for rear only is because they are aluminum and don't take as much abuse in the rear. Another thing to keep in mind is that having steel axles in the front, you probably won't bend a front axle in a hard wreck. Yes, those are the parts you need to complete the shaft assemblies.

(I know this is alot of questions but if I don't type it now I'll forget later.)

will pn 51332,51333 and 54031 fit? and they are carbon reinforced right?

Yes, anything listed for 416 as far as suspension will fit, even the sway bar set. And anything listed for the 416 will be carbon reinforced.
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Last edited by Timmie; 09-09-2009 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:22 PM   #1109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
I got some questions i need help with, I did a lot of reading but didn't find the answer. I want to get the carbon reinforced F/R arms, is the pn 51104 or 53928?

They are both carbon reinforced, the difference being 51104 is the standard length arms and 53928 is the short arm version. 51104 is easy to identify by the 3 lower shock mounting holes used on one side of the arm. 53928 only has 2 available on either side. 51104 was the standard arm used until 416WE and EVO5MS....both of these use 53928 from the factory. The TB03 comes with the short arm version but made out of plastic. So to keep wheel base the same with kit blocks you would want 53928

that be 46mm to 44mm?

For the shafts 51104 you will need 46mm. For 53928 you can use either of the two.

find the 44mm swing shafts (pn 54078) and the lightweight rear (pn 54077). Since the lightweight says "rear" is that for the rear only? do they have a lightweight for the front?
and I imagine if I get the swing shafts i'll need the cross joint (pn 53500) and wheel axles (pn 54076).

If you want to run a spool or one way up front, you will need 54078 for durability. If you run a ball diff up front you can use the lightweight shafts all the way around with no problems. The reason they list 54077 for rear only is because they are aluminum and don't take as much abuse in the rear. Another thing to keep in mind is that having steel axles in the front, you probably won't bend a front axle in a hard wreck. Yes, those are the parts you need to complete the shaft assemblies.

(I know this is alot of questions but if I don't type it now I'll forget later.)

will pn 51332,51333 and 54031 fit? and they are carbon reinforced right?

Yes, anything listed for 416 as far as suspension will fit, even the sway bar set. And anything listed for the 416 will be carbon reinforced.
Surprised you didn't ask me all that.... hehe
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:22 PM   #1110
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See my last post?
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