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Old 10-28-2008, 10:06 AM   #91
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nobody posted this yet...

coming soon (listed at tamiya america website)

TB03D



Sharp and precise of drifting can be experienced through this TB-03D shaft driven 4WD chassis kit. The front damper stay has been changed and is equipped with a normal type suspension system. Comes with 18 spoke black metal plated wheels with Super Driftech Tires! Furthermore the body is ready for you to customize with a rich assortment of Hop Up and drift specific parts. This is the chassis to have for all you drift fans out there!

New design H Parts (Mirror, Wiper).
New design J Parts (Exhaust, Intercooler, Brake disc-shaped wheel hub).
New design N Parts (Suspension mount).
Short reversible suspension.
1050 Bearing Uprights (F/R).
Super drifttech tires (24mm width) included.
Motor, ESC, 2-channel R/C system, 7.2V battery and charger separately required.

ELECTRIC KITS REQUIRE:
(unless stated differently above)
Radio: 2-Channel with servo(s)
Battery: 6-cell flat with standard Tamiya connector
Charger: AC/DC timed or peak for 6-cell battery
Paint: PS for Polycarbonate/TS for ABS
Misc. Items: Building and track equipment





and another version of NSX... 2008, not sure if the shape is same as NSX 2007? anyone can shed a light on this.

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Old 10-29-2008, 11:37 PM   #92
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Hey guys - what kind of guideline can you give me for tightening the diffs? On old electric off road cars, we used to tighten the diff as far as it would go (small spring fully compressed) then back out the screw 1/4 turn. How are you guys doing it?

Also, how will the car drive, compared to the stock front diff, with the optional one way front drive installed or the new spool (solid drive) that is being released?

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:05 PM   #93
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diffs are a little different on a touring car. what you need to do, is first clean all the parts with motor spray to get the factory oils out. You can sand the diff rings with wet 1000 grit paper. Diff rings have front and a back. The side that has the sharper edge should be the one to face the balls. Put everything per instructions. When you adjust the diff, tighten it to a point where the diff stops slipping. Use some flat objects to the hold the outdrives in place, then try to turn the pulley with your fingers. It depends on how strong you are, but there should be point where the diff won't slip smoothly, but rather "skips". I usually stop it around there. Hope this helps
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:33 PM   #94
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I'll try your technique - thanks!
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:45 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
diffs are a little different on a touring car. what you need to do, is first clean all the parts with motor spray to get the factory oils out. You can sand the diff rings with wet 1000 grit paper. Diff rings have front and a back. The side that has the sharper edge should be the one to face the balls. Put everything per instructions. When you adjust the diff, tighten it to a point where the diff stops slipping. Use some flat objects to the hold the outdrives in place, then try to turn the pulley with your fingers. It depends on how strong you are, but there should be point where the diff won't slip smoothly, but rather "skips". I usually stop it around there. Hope this helps
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I'll try your technique - thanks!
i usually take an old sway bar... and bend it to a "U" shape..and slide this into the outdrives.. this helps me hold them in place while i try to turn the pulley.
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Old 10-31-2008, 10:06 PM   #96
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a couple follow up questions on sanding the diff rings - 1- i assume you would only have to sand the side facing the balls, correct? and 2- what is the actual purpose of sanding the diff rings - retain the grease better?
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Old 11-01-2008, 01:14 AM   #97
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can any1 please help, i have difficulties finding TB03 (1way transmission), i saw in Tamiya America, DF03 1 way transmission any one have any idea that this DF03 1 way transmission can be used for TB03 ??
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:27 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by swatdoc View Post
a couple follow up questions on sanding the diff rings - 1- i assume you would only have to sand the side facing the balls, correct? and 2- what is the actual purpose of sanding the diff rings - retain the grease better?
it allows the diff balls to grip the plate better, allowing for less pressure on the diff to attain the same diff action.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:14 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by DRAG_ON View Post


can any1 please help, i have difficulties finding TB03 (1way transmission), i saw in Tamiya America, DF03 1 way transmission any one have any idea that this DF03 1 way transmission can be used for TB03 ??
The TB-03 one way is already out. It's Tamiya #54057 "TB-03 Front One-Way Unit." It runs $47 or so from Tower but can get it for about $30-$35 from Japanese/HK dealers if you are placing a large order and getting other stuff to offset the shipping.
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:07 PM   #100
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Does anyone have any idea whether any TB-03 parts are backwards-compatible? Specifically, would a TB-03 spool (#54125 Direct Coupling) fit a TB-02?
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:27 AM   #101
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Hey guys - I'm slowly getting my TB-03 together but it's taking some time, as I'm waiting for hop up parts to trickle in from Hong Kong. I do have some points to clear up if you can help me please.

1- I got 2 sets of the lightweight aluminum swing shafts, but noticed they say "rear" on the package. So, is there a problem running these on the front? (btw I will be running a brushless 17.5 motor max)

2 - i got all aluminum replacement suspension mounts, going with the stock 1A's in the front and 1XA/1E in the rear. I know you have to add a 1mm spacer under these - I assume this is in addition to the stock 1mm plastic spacers the kit comes with? So basically a total of 2mm of spacers under the aluminum mounts? I bought a set of the blue alumium 1mm spacers from Tamiya for this.

3 - for mounting the aluminum suspension mounts, does it not matter if you mount them "notch up" or "notch down" ? I realize that for the mounts closer to the middle of the chassis you have to mount them "notch down" to clear the ribs molded into the chassis, but for the foreward most and rearward most mounts can you install them "notch up" so they're a little more solid?

Last edited by swatdoc; 11-09-2008 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:43 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatdoc View Post
Hey guys - I'm slowly getting my TB-03 together but it's taking some time, as I'm waiting for hop up parts to trickle in from Hong Kong. I do have some points to clear up if you can help me please.

1- I got 2 sets of the lightweight aluminum swing shafts, but noticed they say "rear" on the package. So, is there a problem running these on the front? (btw I will be running a brushless 17.5 motor max)
The standard practice is to run the alloy drive shafts in the rear because they will bend in a crash, especially if you are running a one way or spool.
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Old 11-10-2008, 06:09 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatdoc View Post
Hey guys - I'm slowly getting my TB-03 together but it's taking some time, as I'm waiting for hop up parts to trickle in from Hong Kong. I do have some points to clear up if you can help me please.

1- I got 2 sets of the lightweight aluminum swing shafts, but noticed they say "rear" on the package. So, is there a problem running these on the front? (btw I will be running a brushless 17.5 motor max)

2 - i got all aluminum replacement suspension mounts, going with the stock 1A's in the front and 1XA/1E in the rear. I know you have to add a 1mm spacer under these - I assume this is in addition to the stock 1mm plastic spacers the kit comes with? So basically a total of 2mm of spacers under the aluminum mounts? I bought a set of the blue alumium 1mm spacers from Tamiya for this.

3 - for mounting the aluminum suspension mounts, does it not matter if you mount them "notch up" or "notch down" ? I realize that for the mounts closer to the middle of the chassis you have to mount them "notch down" to clear the ribs molded into the chassis, but for the foreward most and rearward most mounts can you install them "notch up" so they're a little more solid?
i bent my front alloy UJs after one run
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:19 PM   #104
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OK so the alloy just swing shafts just aren't durable enough to run in the front - thanks.

Since no one corrected me, I assume I'm correct on the mounting of the alloy suspension mounts then?
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Old 11-11-2008, 07:04 PM   #105
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I noticed my TB-03 tends to swerve to one side when I run a more powerful motor like a 10.5 brushless. No such problems with slower motors.

I read that this is what some call 'torque steer'.

How do I overcome this?
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